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64 GT help

ForzaDesign

Donation Time
Hello Group,
My first post of many I'm sure. Just bought my first Alpine in 10 years at least. A 64 GT with hardtop. probably a 7 of 10. Complete rust free CA car. I will post some pics soon. I hope my $1000 wasnt wasted. Two issues. 1. Did not locate a VIN tag on the cowl. Any other way to identy car? Have pink but thats it. 2. Does anyone have images and or parts of the "rear seat" trim. Called SS and they dont have any GT parts.

Thanks,
Jim
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Jim wrote: "I hope my $1000 wasnt wasted." Note the stealth gloat! Great deal for you!
Then he wrote: "Did not locate a VIN tag on the cowl." Oops. I'd do some careful, anonymous checking. Is CA a 'crush on discovery' state? You may need to "locate" one quickly.

Congrats, welcome, and good luck!
Ken
 

sunbby

Past SAOCA President
Donation Time
Hello Group,
Any other way to identy car? Have pink but thats it

Thanks,
Jim

One clue would be the engine serial#, from the factory it had the same number as the chassis, I assume that's right for GT's too? Of course I've learned the original engines are often no longer installed, but it's a start.

-Todd
 

howard

Donation Time
WOW! $1000.00 for a CA rust-free GT! What a great deal!

You might be able to get a bearing on the VIN by looking on the engine block around the fuel pump. There should be an ID number there. It might not be the original engine, but IF IT WAS, that would be the same as the VIN.

The number's not on the pink slip? Very odd...
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
The VIN should be stamped on the engine block on a little ledge just in front of the oil filter. A Series IV VIN should start out "B940......." or "B941....." Of course, the original engine could have been swapped out.

The block manufacture date is in raised letters above the starter. (Int'l dating). Depending on the originality of the rest of your Alpine, that date may help give you an extra bit of confidence that the block (and VIN) are original.
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
Oops! I forgot! "GT" should appear at the end of the VIN (just underneath, to the right) for your car. If "GT" appears, the odds are VERY high that you have the original block - and have verified your VIN.
 

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
If your engine turns out to be "un-original" then I guess your body # will not necessarily need to be original. I have a title and tag along with SAL tag from a 1963 GT in Autumn Gold. But again, a mid 63 production rather than a 64.

6/3-6/7 1963 B9202697-B9202888

Paul
 

65beam

Donation Time
GT help

the time of production doesn't mean anything. when it was sold determined the year on the title .a good example of this is my harrington .it is two vin numbers before jumpin jan's car .his car is titled 1962 and mine is 1963 . i also have a series 5 with round cornered trunck that is titled 1967 .
 
D

Dr.NO 007

Original VIN Identification

If your engine turns out to be "un-original" then I guess your body # will not necessarily need to be original. I have a title and tag along with SAL tag from a 1963 GT in Autumn Gold. But again, a mid 63 production rather than a 64.

6/3-6/7 1963 B9202697-B9202888

Paul

I don't understand why anyone would want to transplant VIN tags or SAL tags from another Alpine. Isn't that like printing counterfeit money ? WYSINWYG = what you see is not what you got.
what is the reasoning behind it?
regards
Chuck
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I don't understand why anyone would want to transplant VIN tags or SAL tags from another Alpine. Isn't that like printing counterfeit money ? WYSINWYG = what you see is not what you got.
what is the reasoning behind it?
regards
Chuck

Getting plates for a car from which some wisenheimer has removed all identification. Usually as the first step of a "restoration".

Sometimes you luck out, especially with cars that not hotly sought after. One member of the board has a car that uses the SAL as the VIN. Even passed across state lines that way with the authorities apparently none the wiser. But I'd rather have a VIN plate, even if it was for the wrong Series and body color.
Bill
 
D

Dr.NO 007

OK , a few weeks ago I saw on ebay that someone had for sale , new "BLANK" VIN tags like it was a new aluminum plate, four corner holes and with the same printed on formwork as the Alpine factory tag , then the buyer only had to use a set of number /alphabet punches and punch in whatever suited his fancy.
I sure am happy my VIN # & SAL # was on the car when I bought it, I have just recently discovered that the engine is a replacement , engine block # is not the same as VIN#
Thanks for the reply.
Chuck
 

RootesRich

Donation Time
What's the VIN on the pink slip?

If the number on the block is stamped with "GT" (making it likely it's the original engine), CA should issue a new VIN tag based on the engine #, but after the numbers they will add "CA".

One of the DPO's on my late SV at some point must have lost the VIN tag as CA re-issued a new VIN and simply replaced the "LRX" with CA. They will also put the new VIN tag on the inside of the drivers door and possibly hide another tag somewhere under the body. I found my hidden tag when I mounted my roll bar.
 

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
Well you should understand.........we are trying to save these cars and keep them on the road.
What would be the difference in transplanting the VIN tags for a car you have no title, or getting a new body for a car you have everything for including title but is so far gone (rusted), it can't be repaired?

:confused:
You explain it to me


I don't understand why anyone would want to transplant VIN tags or SAL tags from another Alpine. Isn't that like printing counterfeit money ? WYSINWYG = what you see is not what you got.
what is the reasoning behind it?
regards
Chuck
 

ForzaDesign

Donation Time
Gentlemen,
Some great feedback. Perhaps I should add some clarity. The stamped engine block number does not match the pink. The only tag on the cowl is the short thin tag with two rivets. This is the "SAL" I assume. Can also I assume that all Alpines came with one large (3 X 5) aluminum tag, one medium (1 X 2) aluminum tag screened black, and the aforementioned small thin tag?

My uncertainty was increased today. I just returned from Vegas where I purchased another Alpine (66). This car on the other hand is probably a 9 of 10. 54K original miles. Car appears to have not seen moisture much. immaculate. Seat runners still shinny. Previous owner started what appears at least a comprehensive repaint, Only jam done is cowl. Unfortunately he passed in 1988 before completing. The moral ..... the cowl tags are as follows: One small thin tag, and one medium tag with body code and color code (86), but no large tag. The medium tag does match the engine number. Did Sunbeam tage configurations at some point?

Hope this helps those of you who are much more knowledgeable.

Thanks for the help.
 

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
Forza,
If you go to this site's Identification section, you will see the early Alpines had a very large screened aluminum plate. That was done away with in the later cars and the smaller tag was established. In your case, the small 1x2 is the one that has all the important data.

I'm glad you got that car! I could never get a phone call back from the seller.

Paul
 
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