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2 overdrive questions
- Thread starter phatt
- Start date
husky drvr
Platinum Level Sponsor
Mark B
Donation Time
This is a tricky little bugger. The solenoid can be accessed as shown on page 6 of the OD section of the WSM Manual in the link below. You do not need to remove anything, just get the car on jack stands or ramps so you can fit under it and see this little access panel on the side of the OD. It is tucked up fairly high in the tunnell and not very easy to get at, but certainly not out of the question. The first thing I did was score/slot the bolts holding the access cap on so that I could more easily remove it with a screw driver that fit instead of trying to get a socket back up there. I never fully took it off after that, just took two of the three bolts out and slid it out of the way.
Step one was making sure the solenoid was working. Some of them move, but do not have the strength to do the job. It was nice to have help with this because I could sit under the car while my helper flicked the switch and I watched the solenoid throw. It does not have to move the little cam far, and it just comes down to repeated adjustment until you get the sweet spot.
If you are under the car with the access plate open, you can see how much distance the rod has to go before it affects the cam. Snugging it up using the adjustment nuts is a great start. I actually got the car onto four jackstands and taking some serious safety precautions, ran the car and listened and watched for the engagement of the OD. Then I would stop the car and climb under and tighten or slack the adjustment nut until I had it consistently going in and out with a solid sound. Keeping the solenoid and access area clean is very key.
Once on the road, I think I only had to get under the car one more time because the solendoid occasionlly would not throw when everything was at temp. Occasionally I still experience that now, but I just time hitting the switch with a bump in the road and all is well again.
I always clutch when going in and out as its too expensive and hard to repair these guys if you twist a shaft. Its not necessary, but when you get used to it, it is easy and will assure me long OD life.
The ODs are fantastic and really allow for highway cruising that is comfortable and not at all frantic. Hope this helps. Ask more questions if you got 'em. Thanks!
Mark B
Step one was making sure the solenoid was working. Some of them move, but do not have the strength to do the job. It was nice to have help with this because I could sit under the car while my helper flicked the switch and I watched the solenoid throw. It does not have to move the little cam far, and it just comes down to repeated adjustment until you get the sweet spot.
If you are under the car with the access plate open, you can see how much distance the rod has to go before it affects the cam. Snugging it up using the adjustment nuts is a great start. I actually got the car onto four jackstands and taking some serious safety precautions, ran the car and listened and watched for the engagement of the OD. Then I would stop the car and climb under and tighten or slack the adjustment nut until I had it consistently going in and out with a solid sound. Keeping the solenoid and access area clean is very key.
Once on the road, I think I only had to get under the car one more time because the solendoid occasionlly would not throw when everything was at temp. Occasionally I still experience that now, but I just time hitting the switch with a bump in the road and all is well again.
I always clutch when going in and out as its too expensive and hard to repair these guys if you twist a shaft. Its not necessary, but when you get used to it, it is easy and will assure me long OD life.
The ODs are fantastic and really allow for highway cruising that is comfortable and not at all frantic. Hope this helps. Ask more questions if you got 'em. Thanks!
Mark B
Pumpkin
Donation Time
OD adjustment
Mark, that sounds like a lot of doing. Doesn't the book also show you the "rod" hole and rod idea. I think the rod size you need is called out and you do the adjustment to fit the rod in the hole. That should be all there is.
Or of course if any one that puts in a OD system should read the book whilst gazing at the wonderous apperatus that so many are quizzed upon. Then shall know to adjust BEfore installing that whole conglomeration of parts and wires..
Wheew I am tired of big words,, mostly mis-speeled.
Chuck
Mark, that sounds like a lot of doing. Doesn't the book also show you the "rod" hole and rod idea. I think the rod size you need is called out and you do the adjustment to fit the rod in the hole. That should be all there is.
Or of course if any one that puts in a OD system should read the book whilst gazing at the wonderous apperatus that so many are quizzed upon. Then shall know to adjust BEfore installing that whole conglomeration of parts and wires..
Wheew I am tired of big words,, mostly mis-speeled.
Chuck
Mark B
Donation Time
Yeaaaaaa.....a rod & hole near a lever.....I did find this to be a helpful starting point assuming all else was perfect. However, I found myself wishing for a very talented 3 year old who had the small hands to "push the plunger whilst holding a spanner and adjusting a little nut on a rod in a sideways box upside down against a transmission on the cold floor in a drafty garage while oil drips on your head".
I am always so leary of short simple sentences in repair manuals. It is like they are inversely proportional to the actual work. Things like, " seperate the ball joint from the knuckle"....fail to convey the fact that they haven't seen a tool in 20 years, are hard to identify because of the 2 inches of grime covering everything, and require a 10 ton press on a good day.
Reality is it is a great starting point to attempt this rod & hole as per the WSM. I found that the tolerances were worn to the point that to get it the way I wanted and consistently engaging when I threw the switch, I had to follow the procedure I outlined. Bottom line is you can certainly adjust this with the engine and tranny/OD in place. I didn't mean to make it sound ghastly hard, just tedious. Thanks!
Mark B
I am always so leary of short simple sentences in repair manuals. It is like they are inversely proportional to the actual work. Things like, " seperate the ball joint from the knuckle"....fail to convey the fact that they haven't seen a tool in 20 years, are hard to identify because of the 2 inches of grime covering everything, and require a 10 ton press on a good day.
Reality is it is a great starting point to attempt this rod & hole as per the WSM. I found that the tolerances were worn to the point that to get it the way I wanted and consistently engaging when I threw the switch, I had to follow the procedure I outlined. Bottom line is you can certainly adjust this with the engine and tranny/OD in place. I didn't mean to make it sound ghastly hard, just tedious. Thanks!
Mark B
Sorry it took so long to get back. I just spent a couple hours under the car repeating the procedure described in the WSM. The 3/16 drill/rod didn't want to fit in any hole so I spent some time turning down and polishing the rod untill it would fit. This overdrive was supposedly rebuilt, and looked it when I bought it, but what do I know? Anyway, the solonoid appears to be preadjusted as near as I can tell. A couple more questions, if you don't mind. The solonoid cover had a gasket under it. Do I need to replace it? Does any oil get in there? Also, what would happen if you were to leave the rod in the hole and turn off the overdrive? Should there be a measureable gap between the plunger and cam? I didn't try this but, was just wondering. I really won't know until I start the car when I finish it hopefully around January. Thanks!