• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

2.8 Ignition System

lardbird

Donation Time
What have you guys done in terms of distributor/coil/module?

My motor came from a 78 Mutt II and with what I presume to be DuraSpark2 distributor, but neither a coil nor ignition module. I am learning a fair amount about wiring up the module and coil, but have you all used something simpler? Switched back to some simple breaker point system??
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Your engine should have the early Duraspark ignition, so should be a one wire hook up. You can get the brain box from NAPA and an electronic coil to suit it, there also.The Duraspark II will need two wires hooked up to make it work.

The Duraspark ignition is about as good as you can get, without having to spend a lot of money. It is reliable and parts are cheap for it. To hook up the early Duraspark, first, what you need to do, is make sure the brain box is well grounded. Next, you will notice that there are two pigtails coming out of the brain box. One will have three or more wires and the other one will have just two wires. The pigtail with the most wires connects to the distributor pig tail. The other one has a red and a white wire. The white wire should be connected to the hot side of the coil. The red wire doesn't get connected to anything. Some guys run a ballast resistor in the line to the distributor, but I never did and had no problems.

With the ignition wired up this way, it should fire up on the first try. I used a Mallory dual point distributor on my first V6 Alpine, but they were a pain to change points and set them. It was easier to just remove the distributor, replace the points, set them, then replace the distributor and set the timing again. The electronic ignition doesn't have the points and the plugs will last a lot longer ( 8,000 miles versus 30,000 miles).

Jose :)
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
A very simple option is to use the 80's GM HEI ignition module. Only four wires to hook up and will work with the Ford distributor. About as simple as you can get. You can get the lowdown on it here:

http://www.gofastforless.com/
Click on "Better Ignition"

Bill
 

lardbird

Donation Time
Bill,

I hated the bulky Ford ignition control module in my engine bay(no offense Jose, I have complete faith the Ford module wires up and works exactly as you describe), so I decided to roll the dice with the GM HEI configuration. It appears to work great so far, although I've only fired the motor very briefly to test it. But it's making a good spark, so seems to being turning the coil field on and off appropriately. Thanks for that link, I like it a lot!

Next up, the alternator. I seem to recall someone on the old board specifying a workable and convenient GM one-wire. Anyone have knowledge which application it comes from?

Thanks guys,
Bob
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Bill,

I hated the bulky Ford ignition control module in my engine bay(no offense Jose, I have complete faith the Ford module wires up and works exactly as you describe), so I decided to roll the dice with the GM HEI configuration. It appears to work great so far, although I've only fired the motor very briefly to test it. But it's making a good spark, so seems to being turning the coil field on and off appropriately. Thanks for that link, I like it a lot!

Next up, the alternator. I seem to recall someone on the old board specifying a workable and convenient GM one-wire. Anyone have knowledge which application it comes from?

Thanks guys,
Bob
No need to apologize for your choice. I just mentioned that you could go with the Ford unit and a one wire hook up. I also recommend putting the brain box inside the passenger foot well, along with the coil, to get them both out of the engine compartment heat. There are many ways to get to where you want, so I'm happy that you got it running with the way you chose.

Jose :)
 

craigb

Donation Time
Mallory or DuraSpark

I have purchased a new Duraspark set up based on what was recommended on the Ranger websight ... and I have a used aftermarket Mallory distributor that came with my Offenhauser intake. Which one should I use? I've been scratching my head on this for a while and really haven't seen info on the forum that tells me which is better. Any good ideas?
 

robertf

Donation Time
A very simple option is to use the 80's GM HEI ignition module. Only four wires to hook up and will work with the Ford distributor. About as simple as you can get. You can get the lowdown on it here:

http://www.gofastforless.com/
Click on "Better Ignition"

Bill



I ran this on my F150 for a while until I put fuel injection on it. Its about as easy as it gets.

Make sure you use an aluminum bracket to hold the ICM and heat sink paste. Radio Shack actually still has the paste. The monkeys behind the counter at the parts store will tell you dialectric grease is the same thing, and they are wrong.
 

Series6

Past President
Gold Level Sponsor
Ok-For the dummies...

I have a Jose kit, a 2.8 that I'm going to have cammed and built to about 200+ hp, and an empty engine bay ready for anything... In the parts I bought from a fellow I have the Offenhauser manifold, and a Mallory Dual Point distributor. Assuming I want to use the Jose alternator bracket and I want to run a single wire alternator and no ballast resistor, what all do I need to locate?

Use small words....:eek:
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I have purchased a new Duraspark set up based on what was recommended on the Ranger websight ... and I have a used aftermarket Mallory distributor that came with my Offenhauser intake. Which one should I use? I've been scratching my head on this for a while and really haven't seen info on the forum that tells me which is better. Any good ideas?

If the Mallory is a point type, why in the world would you want to use it over the Ranger?

Bill
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
If the Mallory is a point type, why in the world would you want to use it over the Ranger?

Bill

If you are using a mallory dual point breaker and use a MSD unit you will have a spark that will cross about 3/4 of an inch.I used that set up on my V6 and with the Bosch platinum plugs.Plugs and pionts lasted much longer.If the MSD was to fail you had a simple wire add on that by passed it.I also had a super coil.Yes once in awhile I changed points.It was so simple to pull the distributor and set it up on the bench.also if you had made marks the distributor would go back exactly as before.
But then i'm old school on some things
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Chuck, maybe so, but what does the Mallory dual point firing an MSD give you that is not available with the 2.8 dizzy? Won't it fire an MSD?

Bill
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
Is anyone just using a Pertronix Ignitor in the V6. I've had one in my Mustang for about 14 years.
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
Chuck, maybe so, but what does the Mallory dual point firing an MSD give you that is not available with the 2.8 dizzy? Won't it fire an MSD?

Bill

I don't see why not.
This was just the way it came about and it worked for me.
.Knowing the speed shop owner since we were kids also helped in advice and price didn't hurt either
 

Jim E

Donation Time
The GM alternators will all work and it does not have to be a one wire you can make up a little jumper to turn a multi wire in to what is more or less a one wire.

While I used a GM unit on my car I do not care for it they are pretty big around and clunky looking and the size thing may lead to a problem. That is vibration and belt squeal. Then it could be the vibration and squeal are because the GM pulley width does not match the MII pulley width.

I found that you want to run as short a belt as you can which seemed to help with the alternator shake. The shake scared me a bit because figured it was only a matter of time before all that movement broke the bracket. So I added a piece to the upper adjustment arm of the bracket to stiffen it. This helped with the shake but did nothing for the squeal. The squeal finally went away thinking it just wore in.

Will go get a picture of the bracket mod here in a minute.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
In this picture if you look close you can see the piece of flat stock I welded to the top of the upper bracket to stiffen it up a bit.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2754.JPG
    IMG_2754.JPG
    78.7 KB · Views: 64

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
In this picture if you look close you can see the piece of flat stock I welded to the top of the upper bracket to stiffen it up a bit.

Hi Jim
Funny I never had a problem with the alternator.I was running an AC delco 70 amp with the clip.The clip almost makes it a one wire deal.I just ran a short wire to power from the + side of the ballast resistor which is a keyed power source for an exciter.However I had mine mounted on the right side hanging low which did make it possible to run a shorter belt.I made my own bracket and it is a 3 point attachment.Maybe because I used heavier gauge when I made it and that probaly eliminated any shaking.I did have to rebuild the alternator about 100,000 miles
Sorry I have no pictures of it
 

robertf

Donation Time
the differences I've seen between 1 wire and 3 wire is the 1 wire will not start charging until it reaches around 1500 rpm, the it functions the same. It actually is the same, just doesn't have the additional 2 wire plug. On that plug, 1 ties into the alternator out/battery, the other goes to a switched 12v with an inline resistor (can't remember the required resistance) so the ballast resisitor hookup would be ideal.
 

Mod_Squad!

Bronze Level Sponsor
I've had nothing but problems with my alternator shaking / squealing. My mounting bracket has broken three times. I've rewelded it, added a gusset, I even tried 'magic' but to no avail. It's cracked again so I'll be pulling it and going with the shortest belt possible. I just bought a stick welder so this will be good practice. I'm sure it will look like a failed 7th grade shop project by the time I'm done with it. :) If that doesn't work I've decided to mount my alternator to run off of the tire like those little generators we used to put on bike tires. I just have to make sure and mount it well. The last one I put on a bike dropped into the spokes on a downhill bomb and hit me right between the eyes. That was fun!:)
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
I've had nothing but problems with my alternator If that doesn't work I've decided to mount my alternator to run off of the tire like those little generators we used to put on bike tires. I just have to make sure and mount it well. The last one I put on a bike dropped into the spokes on a downhill bomb and hit me right between the eyes. That was fun!:)

Man that rerminds me when I was young.I had a bike with a carrier in front with a loose brace.Well it came undone and landed on the tire and I went head over heels as the as the bike came up and over the wheel
 
Top