bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
I am in need of a 2.8 assembly manual/cd w/ all the data for torque specs, etc. If you have one you would part w/ please pm me.
Thanks
Thanks
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2.8 assembly manual
- Thread starter bulldurham
- Start date
Rsgwynn1
Silver Level Sponsor
This thread has the bolt specs.
http://www.saoca.org/protected/forum/showthread.php?t=427&highlight=bolts
I've got several manuals, so if you need some specific info pm me. There are also used Mustang II, Bronco II, and Ranger manuals available cheap on amazon.com.
Sam
http://www.saoca.org/protected/forum/showthread.php?t=427&highlight=bolts
I've got several manuals, so if you need some specific info pm me. There are also used Mustang II, Bronco II, and Ranger manuals available cheap on amazon.com.
Sam
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
2.8 assembly
Hi Sam, thanks for the reply and information. I am not sure exactly what I need at this time but the bolt torque specs will be helpful right away,tomorrow , in fact.Since I did not disassemble this engine I have ?'s as to how some of the small parts actually are fitted, such as the small steel ring behind the cam thrust plate. One interior side is beveled; does the bevel go to the inside or outside? So I guess I need a manual w/ this type detail to get on w/ the process of assembly. Which manual would you suggest? In the meantime I will ck. out Amazon an review the S Forum, which I forget is there for this type of research.
Doug
Hi Sam, thanks for the reply and information. I am not sure exactly what I need at this time but the bolt torque specs will be helpful right away,tomorrow , in fact.Since I did not disassemble this engine I have ?'s as to how some of the small parts actually are fitted, such as the small steel ring behind the cam thrust plate. One interior side is beveled; does the bevel go to the inside or outside? So I guess I need a manual w/ this type detail to get on w/ the process of assembly. Which manual would you suggest? In the meantime I will ck. out Amazon an review the S Forum, which I forget is there for this type of research.
Doug
dmich2
Donation Time
Bull...I have a Haynes Manual for the Must II 2.8. It has been very useful. Here's the one I have. http://www.haynes.com/products/sfID1/3/sfID2/5/sfID3/38/listPage/2/productID/157
Good luck.
Dennis
Good luck.
Dennis
Rsgwynn1
Silver Level Sponsor
I've used the Haynes for the Mustang II that Dennis mentions more than others, but the one I have for the Ranger/Bronco II has also been useful. It says (2B-14.24), "Install the spacer ring with its chamfered side toward the camshaft." "Chamfered" means "beveled." You can probably find both of these for a few bucks on amazon.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
2.8 assembly
Thanks Dennis, I will ck. out the local stores. W/ some luck I may be running by next spring.
Doug
Thanks Dennis, I will ck. out the local stores. W/ some luck I may be running by next spring.
Doug
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
2.8 assembly
Sam, that is what made sense to me , too. But I wasn't foolish enough to install the gears before verifying. Thanks again
Doug
Sam, that is what made sense to me , too. But I wasn't foolish enough to install the gears before verifying. Thanks again
Doug
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
2.8 assembly
That is strange but it was probably written for novices like me. I suspect too that there is some slight horizontal movement and the bevel allows for that .
Based upon my Volvo manuals I am partial to the Chilton but since I need help I will end up w/both Haynes and Chilton.
That is strange but it was probably written for novices like me. I suspect too that there is some slight horizontal movement and the bevel allows for that .
Based upon my Volvo manuals I am partial to the Chilton but since I need help I will end up w/both Haynes and Chilton.
Unfortunately, about the only word that will work is wear, but the real words should be shiney ring where the cam rides. Can you imagine somewone reading tha last description and just scratching his head? The chamfer (bevel), is for oiling of the plate and cam.
Jose
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
2.8 assembly
Sorry I brought it up, but that little piece of info helped me a lot.The cam is in and the gears are in place and the cover is about ready to go on. Still not sure what vintage the block is but I guess it doesn't matter.
Here is another one:four of the new lifters have not been polished on the cam end..as I understand it those surfaces have to be just a bit convex. Is this something a local machine shop can be trusted do or do I need to re-order 4 new ones?
Sorry I brought it up, but that little piece of info helped me a lot.The cam is in and the gears are in place and the cover is about ready to go on. Still not sure what vintage the block is but I guess it doesn't matter.
Here is another one:four of the new lifters have not been polished on the cam end..as I understand it those surfaces have to be just a bit convex. Is this something a local machine shop can be trusted do or do I need to re-order 4 new ones?
Rsgwynn1
Silver Level Sponsor
Jose gave a good tip about how to install the front cover and not mess up the front seal--getting it to center exactly around the driveshaft when the plate is tightened. This seems necessary if your front cover plate doesn't have dowels to position it exactly (mine had three dowels, but I can see how this would be a problem if they weren't there); lacking them, you need to make his precise alignment to avoid potential oil leaks). I think you can find this by searching tech tips or asking Jose.
Also, don't forget the two rubber o-rings for those water channels. I forgot to install them the first time and had to pull the whole front cover to put them in.
Also, don't forget the two rubber o-rings for those water channels. I forgot to install them the first time and had to pull the whole front cover to put them in.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
Intake manifold and gasket
Hi, I'm back w/ another of those ?'s that everyone knows the answer to except me.
I noticed that the two rear ports on the intake are blocked on the gasket however the gasket is printed w/ a sealer for the ports. Is this done for use on other engines and I need to cut out the ports for fitting or? what is going on here . A similar Detroit gasket does not indicate an opening at all for the ports.
I haven't found any references in the manuals to this.
Help me!
Hi, I'm back w/ another of those ?'s that everyone knows the answer to except me.
I noticed that the two rear ports on the intake are blocked on the gasket however the gasket is printed w/ a sealer for the ports. Is this done for use on other engines and I need to cut out the ports for fitting or? what is going on here . A similar Detroit gasket does not indicate an opening at all for the ports.
I haven't found any references in the manuals to this.
Help me!
Rsgwynn1
Silver Level Sponsor
If you're going with the Offy manifold, there is a special Offy gasket for it that blocks off a couple of the water channels that would otherwise be open with a stock manifold and gasket. I was confused about this too when I installed the Offy with its matching gasket.
The lifters might be OK, but the best way to check them, is to put them face to face, and if they rock just a little bit, they have the convex surface. Any good automotive machine shop can reface them for you.
The best way to determine which series, early, 1974-1978, or late 1983-1985, is to look at the oil pan and color of the engine. The early engines came in black paint and the later ones came only in industrial grey. If the engine had a front sump oil pan, it is from a Mustang II. If it is black and has a rear sump oil pan, it is from a Capri or Capri II, All the later engines had rear sump pans and the color grey.
Jose
You shouldn't cut out any of the gasket. The sealer is there to assure that the gasket doesn't leak at that juncture.
On installing the front cover, just do the following. These engines oil pretty good, so if you're not careful,, you can have a big leak at the front of the engine. The front timing covers on these engines do not have locating dowel pins, so they can go on a bit scued. To avoid this, first make sure that you have installed the two rubber grommets that seal the water pump to block passages. Then put the cover on, but with the bolt heads not touching the cover, so that the cover can still move somewhat. Next, put the pulley hub onto the crank snout, making sure you have lightly greased it first. when you have done this,, since the cover can still move, it will center itself with the pulley hub, so you will not have the seal off to one side and produce a leak. Now you can tighten all the bolts and you're done.
This procedure doesn't sound important, but you will most likely have an oil leak if you don't do it. You sure don't want to pull the engine in order to fix that leak. More than one of my customers didn't take the suggestion, and had to retrace their steps and work double to get it fixed.
Jose