1725cc Rebuild

[mamoose124]

OK guys, I am in the process of rebuilding a 1725 engine and need some parts right off before I even finish the tear-down. Here is the list: Fan pully, fan, generator, drain tube w/adapter (#232 Plate A-Section AA of Roots Sunbeam Alpine Parts List) Flywheel, Zeneth Strombrerg CD 150 Dampers and Air Filters.

Let me know if any of you have some of these parts.

 

[George Coleman]

I have a flywheel but if it was up to me I would use an earlier flywheel as the clutch parts are more available. Fan pulley I have as for the fan I would not use the Alpine V four blade fan try to find a six blade on the earlier cars.

 

[Alpine Addict]

Mike,
I am guessing from your posts you are replacing a 1600 with a 1725.

If that is the case the pulley and fan from the 1600 will fit the 1725 and the fan will be the more desirable 6 blade.

The generator and mounting bracket can be taken from the 1600 and fitted to the 1725.

On the carbs I would forget the Stromberg's and go with a single weber from Sunbeam Specialties.

 

[hartmandm]

Stromberg CD150 dampers - See Sunbeam Specialties catalog, page 6.
CD150 air filters - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNBEAM-ALPINE-SERIES-5-1725CC-AIR-FILTERS-NEW/131964736451
The air filters are probably available elsewhere, such as UK sellers. The Sunbeam Specialties air filters are a separate metal housing and air filter element. The air filter element does not have the stock appearance, like the ones on EBay.

In stock configurations, the 4 blade series V fan moves more air than the earlier 6 blade fan. But folks have had issues with exploding 4 blade fans. The theory is using the fan blade to rotate the engine damages the unit and it can then come apart when spinning, sending blades through the hood. This topic has been covered on other threads on the forum.

Mike

 

[mamoose124]

Flywheel for 1725cc engine

I have a flywheel but if it was up to me I would use an earlier flywheel as the clutch parts are more available. Fan pulley I have as for the fan I would not use the Alpine V four blade fan try to find a six blade on the earlier cars.

I have a new clutch in my 1962 Alpine which has the 1592cc engine. You are saying 1) that the 1592cc flywheel will work with the 1725cc engine, and 2) that it is easier to get clutch parts that fit with the older flywheel/1592cc engine? I really need to get this straight because mixing and matching parts between these two engines cold become a headache.

 

[mamoose124]

Mike,

I can use the four blade fan and pulley off my 1592cc as you suggest. I just figured that the 1725cc engine would require its own specific parts. I wold be happy to do the same with the generator. And, finally, I have a new Weber on my car now and can switch the manifold and carb to the 1725cc engine. I am just unsure which parts can be properly ported over to the 1725 without problems. So, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Hillman]

While no expert, I'll venture this. My SII has a 1725 block. Unsure about the head but every other thing I can identify is SII. I've had the engine/trans out but never tried to determine the FW origin. Since it has an early trans, I suspect the fw/clutch match the trans. Mine even uses the early dizzy with tach connection.

A few years ago, my water pump croaked. I ordered a new SII fom SS and it was what I wanted (whether I knew it or not).

If you're just doing a block/head replacement, I'd guess that all your old stuff will work. Someone may correct me and I'm happy with that.

 

[George Coleman]

The flywheel will fit all Alpines the early flywheel from mid Alpine IV back. The clutch parts from other cars like MG and Volvo will work on this flywheel, but not on the late Alpine IV-V as they use a 7 1/2 inch disc and pressure plate and the last Alpine Vs have 7 1/2 inch 25 spline input. If you need cross over info I would be glade to provide.

 

[hartmandm]

Mike,

I can use the four blade fan and pulley off my 1592cc as you suggest. I just figured that the 1725cc engine would require its own specific parts. I wold be happy to do the same with the generator. And, finally, I have a new Weber on my car now and can switch the manifold and carb to the 1725cc engine. I am just unsure which parts can be properly ported over to the 1725 without problems. So, thanks for the suggestion.

Having a PCV system would be good. Does your manifold & Weber setup support a PCV valve?

Does anyone know if the series 2 distributor can be installed onto the 1725 without any mods? My brother has a series 2 with a 1725, but he has the series V distributor, which uses an electrical signal for the tachometer instead of being cable driven like the series 2 distributor. He added a mechanical cable drive to the series V distributor to be able to use the original series 2 tachometer.

Mike

 

[Alpine Addict]

The series 2 distributor is not a direct fit onto a 1725

 

[mamoose124]

1725 engine swap

Having a PCV system would be good. Does your manifold & Weber setup support a PCV valve?

Does anyone know if the series 2 distributor can be installed onto the 1725 without any mods? My brother has a series 2 with a 1725, but he has the series V distributor, which uses an electrical signal for the tachometer instead of being cable driven like the series 2 distributor. He added a mechanical cable drive to the series V distributor to be able to use the original series 2 tachometer.

Mike

No, mike, my Weber currently does not have a PCV valve and I don't know if one can be fitted. The Zenith Stromberg intake manifold does support a PCV valve.

I had forgotten that the 1725 does not use a cable to run the tachometer. How much trouble is it to add a mechanical cable drove to the 1725 distributor so I can keep my original Tachometer? I have read that the 1592 tack does not easily fit an 1725. As I recall you need to switch over the 1592 drive gear to the 1725 distributor. I'm unsure how difficult this may be.

 

[mamoose124]

1725 engine swap

The flywheel will fit all Alpines the early flywheel from mid Alpine IV back. The clutch parts from other cars like MG and Volvo will work on this flywheel, but not on the late Alpine IV-V as they use a 7 1/2 inch disc and pressure plate and the last Alpine Vs have 7 1/2 inch 25 spline input. If you need cross over info I would be glade to provide.

George,

At this point, I'm thinking the best option is to remove the flywheel from my current car (1595cc engine) and mount it on the 1725 engine. Seems simple enough and sould work with the clutch I installed two yers ago.

Any cross-over information you have regarding installing the 1725 to my Series II would be appreciated.

 

[mamoose124]

Having a PCV system would be good. Does your manifold & Weber setup support a PCV valve?

Does anyone know if the series 2 distributor can be installed onto the 1725 without any mods? My brother has a series 2 with a 1725, but he has the series V distributor, which uses an electrical signal for the tachometer instead of being cable driven like the series 2 distributor. He added a mechanical cable drive to the series V distributor to be able to use the original series 2 tachometer.

Mike

Mike,

I am desperate to learn how to get a mechanical cable drive to work with a Sweies V distributor. Can you fill me in on the details or get me in touch with your brother so I can do it on my car?

Thanks in advance for responding to my request.

Mike Youngblood

 

[Chuck Ingram]

are you using a series 2 gauges. If not why bother., a series 5 dizzy needs only.one wire from the coil to the tach providing it's an electronic tach

 

[mamoose124]

Series II gauges and tach.

are you using a series 2 gauges. If not why bother., a series 5 dizzy needs only.one wire from the coil to the tach providing it's an electronic tach

Yes. That is the point. All my gauges are Series II gauges and installing a Series V tachometer will really stand out as they look diffferent. I understand that one can modify a Series V distributor to work with a cable for a Series II tachometer (Or whatever modifiation is required; I don't understand the mechanics of it yet. That is what I'm trying to find out). Anyway, that is what I would like to do if it is not too difficult technically. Of course, if I can't manage it, I will install a Series V tachometer.

 

[volvoguys]

Can't imagine the process to convert a SV electronic distributor to a SII mechanically driven tachometer.

If appearance is important how about swapping the dial from the SII to the SV and paint the hands white? Your RPMS will read slightly off (15%) but unless you're 1. worried about redlining or 2. won't remember to compensate for the difference this seems like an easy fix.

Mark ..... volvoguys

 

[RootesRacer]

Its been done.

Before I converted my SII to use an SV tach, I had a 1725 engine and a complete (with tach drive) SII dstributor running the stock mechanical tach.

Its been a very long time but from what I recall, I had to make a keyed spacer for the interface between the 1725 oil pump and the SII distributor.
There was like 1/4 inch gap between the dizzy drive dog and the oil pump drive dog.

It needed to be pretty accurate and tight so I used a lathe and a mill. Machining the slut for the drive dog key and keyway was the hardest part as it needs to be very accurate to prevent binding during rotation.

In any case, know that it can be and has been done.

 

[volvoguys]

Slut? Ya need a loose woman for this mod? (he chuckles).

I suppose with enough ambition and time practically anything is possible. I'm simple guy and will usually try the simplest route when possible.

 

[RootesRacer]

Can't imagine the process to convert a SV electronic distributor to a SII mechanically driven tachometer.

If appearance is important how about swapping the dial from the SII to the SV and paint the hands white? Your RPMS will read slightly off (15%) but unless you're 1. worried about redlining or 2. won't remember to compensate for the difference this seems like an easy fix.

Mark ..... volvoguys

BTW, there is no error in the tach when mixing engines with mech tach, the tach till spins at the engine speed/2 even if the cam and the pump have different number of gear teeth. So long as the cam and pump have the same number of teeth, the dizzy spins at half engine speed and the engine will run and mechanical tach will be correct.

 

[hartmandm]

Yes. That is the point. All my gauges are Series II gauges and installing a Series V tachometer will really stand out as they look diffferent. I understand that one can modify a Series V distributor to work with a cable for a Series II tachometer (Or whatever modifiation is required; I don't understand the mechanics of it yet. That is what I'm trying to find out). Anyway, that is what I would like to do if it is not too difficult technically. Of course, if I can't manage it, I will install a Series V tachometer.

Lines of communication with my brother are a bit unreliable at the moment. I'll let you know if I can get the info & some photos from him.

My recollection is the thing looked like a customization to a series 2 spacer / tach drive (see attached photo). The series V distributor ends up sitting a bit higher than normal.

Another option I have heard is Nosinger will convert a series 2 mechanical tach to be electronic. That is only hearsay. Personally, if I went the conversion route I'd pick up another series 2 tach and have that converted, preserving the original tach.

Mike