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Recent content by Dan Cooper

  1. D

    Tube shock set up proper (Finally) Series 1

    Yes I get it now. thanks for the input everyone. I hate to admit the SPAX were a mistake but there if is. I'll try trimming the mount but if the shocks bottom I will get the kit and some shorter shocks--I only drive the car and work in summertime in Maine. So a project for next year.
  2. D

    Tube shock set up proper (Finally) Series 1

    Interesting theory that the shock mount would be hit by a flat tire causing damage. I think maybe the perspective on the last photo was deceptive. I don't think its an issue for the lower mounts I made up. I agree that with shorter shocks the mounts others made might be more sanitary, but these...
  3. D

    Tube shock set up proper (Finally) Series 1

    A couple of years ago bought a kit for tube shocks from a member and some Spax for a later model Alpine. Messed around getting the upper mount worked out, then drove it around with the rear bottoming over moderate bumps. This year I finally applied myself and determined the shocks are too long...
  4. D

    Valve train adventures

    Gents--after solving my cooling issues, I have happily driving the Sunbeam around, finishing off the second tank of gas. Molly and I did a big loop through Sedgewick. Turned onto Parker Point road for the little buzz home and the car lost power, started clanking. Running on three barrels. Turned...
  5. D

    Series 2 running hot

    that all makes sense to me. Pulley is tight to spec. I'll look for signs of slippage.
  6. D

    Series 2 running hot

    Yes of course. But my pulley has a TDC mark and then a series of 5 degree marks as stock. Nice to use those rather than remarking using a protractor or disc.
  7. D

    Series 2 running hot

    I pulled the valve cover to confirm that the TDC corresponding to the mark on the pulley was in number 4 (closest to the firewall) rather than number 1. Then I timed the BTDC for the spark at 1K rpm, vacuum disconnected, for number 4. The timing was way advanced when I timed it from #1. You...
  8. D

    Series 2 running hot

    OK to finish this out--I carved away at the fan mounts, I moved the fan switch probe to the upper left hand corner of the radiator where coolant enters from the head, I flushed it again, and I installed the 160 degree thermostat. I checked the dash temp gauge sender spot with a pointer...
  9. D

    Series 2 running hot

    Ugh. I'll drive it for a while. See what happens.
  10. D

    Series 2 running hot

    How do I unblock the passages ? Pull the head and run a brass brush down them ? I am running a chemical flush now.
  11. D

    Series 2 running hot

    Too late the thermostat is back in. Pegged as in I shut it off and waited for it to cool down when it hit 230, the max on the gauge. It got hot on extended drives with the stock low mileage motor I installed 4 years ago. I'll drive it tomorrow and report back.
  12. D

    Series 2 running hot

    the sender is in a pipe from the head, at the firewall. Seems like a bodge to me. I ran the car with water and the 160 thermostat as a pre-flush. It went to 185, when the fan came on, and then sat there. So progress it seems. I'll drive it later and report back.
  13. D

    Series 2 running hot

    In the photo above the thermostat housing is to the left, with the black remains of the gasket. The header tank bolts on top
  14. D

    Series 2 running hot

    I also opened up the bracket.
  15. D

    Series 2 running hot

    that's a lovely install for your fan. 1) sender is what Sunbeam Specialties sold me. 2) gauge is original 3) infrared temp gauge on the way to check dash gauge accuracy. Arrives Tuesday. 4) agreed on thermostat. However I thought I better check orientation. The side that is up in the attached...
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