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Engine Squeel part 2

T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
The ball and spring are pretty clearly noted in the WSM, in two places. It's a non return valve.

Tom
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Tom H said:
The ball and spring are pretty clearly noted in the WSM, in two places. It's a non return valve.

Tom
Click to expand...

No doubt; and point well made although they are obscure, and I believe most folks have not read of this.

I learned of them by accident while having a block cleaned, with them still attached.
 
jumpinjan

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
The little spring/ball is an anti-siphoning valve. It keeps oil in the engine's oil gallery so the oil pressure rises immediately on a cold start.
Be very careful when working on it. That ball is very, very small and will disappear in a flash, then you're screwed.
Jan
 
Ron67Alpine

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
RootesRacer said:
Well if you have the time and the gumption, there is the chevy front oil seal mod, also there is a modification to reduce the amount of oil that sprays on the rubbing block (increases oil pressure and gives faster oil pressure build).
Click to expand...
After looking @ Tom's link, I think I may pass on that mod, but thanks for mentioning the lube mod, RootesRacer. I think I may just replace the gasket and seal, if I really need to.
Ron
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Ron,
While you have the oil pump out you might want to lap the housing for near zero clearance, is said to help with oil pressure.
 
Ron67Alpine

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
In the interest of tying up loose ends, I believe I've eliminated the squeel/screach. I finally got a guy I know, who's "into LBC's", to come over and listen w/a talented ear. He thought he heard 3 sounds and located one where the external oil tube was vibrating against the exhaust down pipe. At the end of the evening we couldn't locate the other sounds origination points, but he was very sure the noises were coming from somewhere outside the engine. This was the information I really needed to know. With Clay's assurances I began concentrating on surface to surface vibrations. The other day I realized the steering column cowling was vibrating against the column. When I removed the lower half of the cowling the loudest noise when away. I believe the vibration was traveling down the steering shaft and was resonating in the steering box. This left me w/an intermittent noise that sounded like it's coming from the back of the engine, maybe from the clutch housing. I took the car out for test drive around the neighborhood, today, and after driving it around for a bit, under heavier load than I've previously driven it, the final noise went away. I'm beginning to believe the final noise may be the throw-out bearing, because now that I'm able to get a good 1000rpm idle, engaging the clutch does cause a significant drop in rpm and will sometime die. So it looks like a clutch replacement is in order. It's something I should probably do, anyway.
Thanks for the help and suggestions, With luck, I may be able to get this beast on the road by spring...here's hoping.
Ron
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Ron, significant RPM drop when pushing the clutch pedal is a very good sign the thrust bearing is shot. Check the crankshaft for fore and aft movement. There should be so very little it is undetectable. If the thrust bearing is worn, do not drive the engine, as it can suddenly turn into a lump of junk.

Bill
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, with the engine off, push the clutch to the floor, then push on the engine pulley. I've never had the condition, so I cannot tell you how much effort it takes to move it if the thrust bearing is bad. Might require a little pry bar work, cannot imagine it would be really tough to move. Maybe somebody can tell us.

Bill
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
If you step on the clutch, you will effectively push the crank forward, and will not be able to move the crank back and forth by hand.

Jose
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
V6 JOSE said:
If you step on the clutch, you will effectively push the crank forward, and will not be able to move the crank back and forth by hand.

Jose
Click to expand...

Jose, if he is man enough that he can push on the clutch while shoving the crank back, he just might be able to overcome the clutch pressure!

Okay, so push the clutch to the floor, release the clutch and try to shove the crank to the rear.

Bill
 
Ron67Alpine

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
sunbby said:
I previously posted about finding a service bulletin describing a procedure to check the end float on an installed engine.

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?p=80305#post82732
Click to expand...


Great info in this service bulletin, Todd. The thread is an interesting discussion also. It helped me understand what Bill and Jose were saying. Since I don't have a dial guage if I could get a little clarification on what Bill and Jose are talking about. With engine off, are you saying: depress the clutch, then go to the front and try to push the crank pully back? If I get any indication of movement, the thrust washer needs to be replaced? Do I need to remove the belt, to allow free'er movement? The bulletin indicates this is a relatively simple procedure and just requires removal of the oil pan to access and replace the thrust washers. Realizing that there is a matter of measuring w/feeler guages to get the correct washer. Is it really that simple?
Thanks
Ron
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Basically, if there's any discernible movement in the crank, fore-and-aft, then your washers are probably shot - i.e. if you push back on the crank (using a rod or starting handle from through the front valence hole) and then push in the clutch, and you feel any sort of 'click' or play in the process, your TW is probably toast. The actual end-float on a properly set-up engine should be almost unnoticeable at only 0.012" cold, 0.008" hot.

As noted, using a dial indicator is really the only proper way to get the definitive answer, but as I say, if it's bad you'll hear that click and feel the movement. Oh, and you should probably do it with the engine warmed up, since the lube won't be so sticky and will allow freer movement.

This is a similar issue on Triumph engines, and I've seen them so bad that the owners have put pennies in the clutch slave cylinder to take up the slack!
 
sammaw@bellsout

sammaw@bellsout

Silver Level Sponsor
I advise you to please check this before you run the engine again. If the TW is warn, you are living on borrowed time. I got the pleasure of replacing the block, and major crakshaft work on mine because of this. But I did not have "squeal" prior to the failure as a symptom of impending doom. It just stalled out at idle when the rear tw rotated out of it seat and locked the crank. :(

Sam
 
Ron67Alpine

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Again Thanks for the info, clarification and warning. I did as you've recommended and didn't feel any significant play by pushing and pulling the crank pully, so I guess that's good news. More good news is that I no longer hear any squealing noises. And after playing around w/the carb a bit, I've got, a 1K, idle that doesn't drop when engaging the clutch. Bad news is that my #1 and 4 plugs are getting carboned up and missing...but that's for another post
Your help is much appriciated, thanks.
Ron
 
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