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Clutch

ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
Sorry guys... I have replaced clutched on our older vehicles before but never on the sunbeam... so everything is stock and original on our 67 Sunbeam../ I am pretty sure the throw out bearing went out last week so my Dad and I decided to tackle it ourself seeing as how there was no one in the valley that would touch it with a 10ft pole. regardless engine sits fine tranny sits fine but when I went to remove the transmission I took out the drive line first and unbolted the transmission from the block and I was able to get them to separate however it will not move more than 2 inched out because the transmission hits the firewall the further you separate it.. I tried lowering the transmission to get it to clear the firewall but it just won't go any further. Not sure what I am doing wrong to not get the transmission to drop
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Ryan, You don't tell us much about what you have done so far. Did you remove the shift lever? What are you using for instructions? Do you have the Workshop Manual? Did you drain the radiator and remove the top radiator hose? Did you disconnect the exhaust flange from the manifold? Did you remove the starter? There are more steps described in the Manual, but these are a couple things that could hang up the tranny. You might do an advanced search on this forum. Here's one thread on teh subject:

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15879

Tom
 
bernd_st

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
You have to move the engine a bit forward. For that purpose it's better to remove the radiator and loosen the engine front rubber mount screws going into the crossmember. Then just slide the engine a bit forward but still resting on the member. Engine may need some support under the rear of the oilpan though. Gearbox can then be moved further backwards...
 
ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
ok great thank you... I have no manual at all... I have removed starter, gear shift, driveline and that was it... Thank you for the tip on moving the engine I will attempt that now
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
There are a few more things that should be removed- throttle linkage, fuel line maybe, oil filler neck ??, Put a wood block between the valve cover and the firewall.

Read the on line manual. Here is a link to the transmission section:

http://www.rootes1725cc.info/wsm145/WSM_E/E.htm

you need pg 6.

You can usually disconnect the clutch slave rod from the fork, and unbolt the clutch slave from the bell housing without totally removing the slave.

Tom
 
Last edited:
jumpinjan

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
ryanneptune said:
I tried lowering the transmission to get it to clear the firewall but it just won't go any further. Not sure what I am doing wrong to not get the transmission to drop
Click to expand...
Well, you are doing it the hard way, by dropping the tranny out the bottom. You could have either left the tranny in place and removed the engine and then struggled later trying to line up the input shaft to the clutch plate. Or just pull the whole engine & tranny as a unit out the top.
So apparently, it was suggested to unbolt the engine mounts and move the engine forward so the tranny can clear the body....that's a lot of unnecessary work, in my opinion.
Jan
 
A

agmason54

Donation Time
Ryan
l pulled my tranny alone with hand tools and a floor jack in my buddies front yard on a sheetof plywood.
Heres the drill..
Jack it up
Remove driveshaft
Unbolt exhaust down pipe from manifold
Remove shifter
Remove speedo cabke
Unbolt bell housingbolts and starter etc
Remiove air cleaners &linkage(Strombergs)
Remove two crossmember rubber mount bolts then crossmember to clear exhaust pipe
It should shold now fall down out after being lowered with floor jack.
I put a piece of twoxfour between the valve ciover and firewall.I have never moved an engine forward or removed a radiator hose todo this from underneath.I dont think its easier one way or the other having done it both ways.
lt took me three hours out three hours in not counting jacking it up.My ckutch disc died Friday morning.I was back on the road Monday afternoon thanks to SUNBEAM SPECIALTIES Even though l was two thousand miles from homeI was lucky it happened where and when it did instead of BF Egypt..
Later
Agm
 
ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
I just don't see how it will clear the tunnel when I lower it it places it at such a crazy angle and the bell housing just won't clear the tunnel that way

I unbolted the radiator but reluctant to unbolt the motor as my engine puller hydraulics are very old and weak not sure if they will sustain the weight

I am kind of at an impasse I pulled the hood to have better access if I do unbolt the engine but just seems like it should come out with out doing so
 
A

agmason54

Donation Time
Ryan
l pulled my tranny alone with hand tools and a floor jack in my buddies front yard on a sheetof plywood.
Heres the drill..
Jack it up
Remove driveshaft
Unbolt exhaust down pipe from manifold
Remove shifter
Remove speedo cabke
Unbolt bell housingbolts and starter etc
Remiove air cleaners &linkage(Strombergs)
Remove two crossmember rubber mount bolts then crossmember to clear exhaust pipe
It should shold now fall down out after being lowered with floor jack.
I put a piece of twoxfour between the valve ciover and firewall.I have never moved an engine forward or removed a radiator hose todo this from underneath.I dont think its easier one way or the other having done it both ways.
lt took me three hours out three hours in not counting jacking it up.My ckutch disc died Friday morning.I was back on the road Monday afternoon thanks to SUNBEAM SPECIALTIES Even though l was two thousand miles from homeI was lucky it happened where and when it did instead of BF Egypt..
Later
Agm
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Wow! Mike, what a super document.

Need to get this posted up in the Feature Articles archive.

Not sure how to get this done

Tom
 
bernd_st

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
To ryanneptune:

Just try my method. We did that successfully on various Alpines. Still think it's way less effort than pulling out the whole engine/gearbox assy...
 
greenbeam

greenbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi Ryan,
Does your car have overdrive on the gearbox? ie does it have a stalk on either side of the steering column just behind the steering wheel? One side the stalk is for indicators, the other to turn OD on and off. If so the gearbox is quite a bit longer than non-overdrive cars. Bell-housing end should be the same, the length is added on the tailshaft end of the 'box.

It is still possible to tilt the engine back and get the OD gearbox out the bottom, just a bit more fiddly. I removed my OD gearbox that way. And yes the engine is at quite an angle by the time the gearbox will clear the car body.

Maybe post your location so that if someone on the forum lives nearby they might swing past for a look. (I'm in Australia, so a bit far for me :)
Regards,
Paul.
 
ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
So I ordered a pilot bearing and pushing from sunbeam specialties

However the pilot bearing looks to be carbon and not a bearing is that normal
 
ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
Also I was able to get the transmission out

It is not od

I had to unbolt the motor and it came right out

The clutch looks rather worn guess I'll have to send it somewhere to get it rebuilt

But I'm confused on the realease bearing as the one SS sent is carbon and not an actual bearing

Confused for sure
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
ryanneptune said:
But I'm confused on the realease bearing as the one SS sent is carbon and not an actual bearing

Confused for sure
Click to expand...

Its a bearing, just not what you expected.

Its called a carbon thrust throw-out bearing. They were common on cars, particularly British ones into the 60s.

The pilot bearing should be bronze, doubtful it is carbon or you could never install it.

Now that you know this, the key to longevity is not to hold the clutch in for ANY period of time.
 
ryanneptune

ryanneptune

Donation Time
Ok

That does not makes sense but I'll trust the British

So the finger on the pressure plate are uneven should I address that too?

And replacement clutch? Rebuild not sure where to go for that SS did not really have a suggestion
 
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