1. Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

    Dismiss Notice

X frame repair sections.

Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by Matthew.Rogerson, Nov 20, 2022.

  1. Matthew.Rogerson

    Matthew.Rogerson Silver Level Sponsor

    I’m trying to find repair section for both arms of the x frame on a series v. Parts numbers are noted as 0022/23 and 0079/80 respectively. Does anyone have these for sale or know of anyone currently manufacturing them? Poor photo of the purple unicorn attached.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Matthew, What company part number(s) are you referring to?
     
  3. Matthew.Rogerson

    Matthew.Rogerson Silver Level Sponsor

    Hi there, those part numbers are from the Sunbeamcarparts.co.uk upload_2022-11-20_20-44-17.png
     
  4. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Matthew, Have you contacted or attempted to contact the vendor (UK) ?

    I did not know of them.

    Here is a picture of an X-frame I removed from a salvaged SIV Alpine. I had it chemically dipped then coated it with POR 15.

    Plans are to have some replacements made for another Alpine I have that needs an X-frame. Perhaps make them available to the Sunbeam World (Alpine/Tiger owners).

    It is a very slow process getting stuff like this accomplished. The X-Frame is presently sitting in the CenterLine Engineering Shop for drawings, then Laser Cut and bending.

    UPDATE: I think I mistook what you were referring to. If it is "CUT OUTS" and not the "X-Frame" sections, please excuse me.

    I finally found the particular parts by the numbers you show (#0022/23) I purchased a couple of these from Curt at Classic Sunbeam a couple years ago.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    In the pictures I posted above: The X-Frame in our Sunbeams have a tendency to rust out because there is basically no place for draining water or foreign matter. As a result the residue collects and holds/retaining moisture. Slowly, but surely rust forms and our Sunbeams frame becomes weakened. Just take a good look at a couple of the PIC's above for proof!!

    I have one Alpine that I am doing extensive repairs to the X-Frame (pictured above) and another that surely needs the same. I am becoming weary of this type of repair. Too many of our Sunbeams wind up in the scrap yard just because of this type of rust damage.

    I do not know of any fabricator making replacement components for this sort of repair. Anyone have a suggestion as to a source?
     
  6. Matthew.Rogerson

    Matthew.Rogerson Silver Level Sponsor

    Hi there,
    Thank you for the photos unfortunately they look all too familiar. I was thinking that one could have each arm of the x individually fabricated, slipped over top of the existing rotten arm and then welded into place. I am a little nervous about removing the entire unit. Keeping in mind my goal is to drive this not to win any best in shows!
     
  7. Scotty

    Scotty Donation Time

    Out of curiosity, what do your letters mean?
     
  8. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Matthew, the slip over/ overlapping type is what I planned.

    A careful examination of the X-Frame will show each of the arms are put together in two pieces overlapped and welded together.

    The X-Frame pictured with the Black POR15 was salvaged from an Alpine that was in my opinion not economically feasible for restoration.

    I intend to drill out the welds and separate the pieces, have drawings made, then laser cut pieces for replacement.

    Don't know if I will live long enough to get it done.

    Still hope to get'r done!

    Anyone interested in possible purchasing components pleas let me know.

    KEEP'EM-ON-THE-ROAD
     
  9. Warren

    Warren Bronze Level Sponsor

    I was somehow under the impression that most of the vendor are reseller's buying from Radford panel and selling on. Although I completely understand that buying new saves the ___ton of drilling and deconstructing a body. Tiger ones are especially prone and the exhaust pass thru's are gravel collectors.
     
  10. alpine_64

    alpine_64 Donation Time

    If you are planning on that method you would want to cut all the rusty metal out and some extra depth to ensure no rust is left.. Heavily corrosion treat the remaining metal...

    Also when repairing the sills or X frame on a sunbeam you want to brace across the door openings to ensure you dont weld in new metal with the car sagging.

    Does the car have a tight fit at the top of the door to B post vs the back lower corner of the door?
     
  11. Tim R

    Tim R Silver Level Sponsor

    As Dan R says above draining is really important.We go to great lengths to ensure that the bodies of our Alpines can drain properly. they originally came with no drain holes. Water got out by rusting out! Do what these videos on The Sunbeam Alpine Channel show and your Alpine will last a lot longer.
    Tim R




     
  12. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Michael, I have an Alpine that was supposed to be rust free. A prior owner, before the owner I purchased it from made some thin pieces of metal bent in similar shape to the "original" frame and put a few (very few) spot welds in an attempt to hide the rust.

    I have previously posted pictures of the Alpine (the Green1). The pictures I posted above are a few that show the extent of damage from the rust and where I cut portions of the "bottoms" of the frame away leaving all good metal. I built braces that hold the frame/body rigid.

    1st PIC Cover up
    2nd PIC Uncovering the attempt to hide
    3rd PIC The area of the frame most susceptable to damage - NOT DRAIN HOLES
    4th PIC Portions of the "X" Braces I made to hold the Body/F The Green1 cover up of rusty area   20210810_184132.jpg The Green1 Rust revealed     20210810_184122.jpg The Green1 X-Frame rust repair          20210810_190235.jpg The Green1 with rigid braces        20210810_185855.jpg
     
  13. Warren

    Warren Bronze Level Sponsor

    I knew a guy that took his car to the desert after it got sunk. He shot some with a firearm. You see Herbie is the only VW bug that floats. In addition there's no drain holes in the pan or added Karmann coach works mods.

    You can start with the C post on the hard top as to the didn't think it through construction process. Or the in period service life of a car. Panels that can be effected by condensation should get a drain holes don't use your gun ;)
     
    Tim R likes this.
  14. Barry

    Barry Platinum Level Sponsor

    There is a BIG difference between restoration and repair. Restoration means removing all of the "rotten" metal and replacing it with duplicates of the factory original sheet metal pieces. If all you want to do is repair the cruciform structure by putting new metal over the old rusted metal, you can make all the necessary pieces with some 18 gauge sheet metal and a 36" sheet metal brake. Some welding skill is needed, but keep in mind that the Series Alpine unibody was stick welded. Not wire welded or MIG welded or TIG welded, but plain old fashion stick welded.

    Not advocating for either repair or restoration; they both have their place depending on the owner's priorities.

    I totally agree with the previous comments about drainage issues with the Series Alpine design.
     
    Scotty and DanR like this.

Share This Page