WTB; Rubber timing chain tensioner

[nsbluenose]

Wanted to buy, good condition used rubber timing chain tensioner. Rebuilt 1725 engine last winter, the new rubber tensioner from respected supplier disintegrated over the summer season. And I threw away my old one after the rebuild. My research now tells my that my old one would have been better than the new one I installed. Anyone have one?

 

[greenbean]

I have heard that Roots Parts, across the pond, has now made one that works with the newer conventional oils. Check with them or their website. Best of luck!!

 

[65sunbeam]

The new Rootes Parts tensioner may not be the best choice either. Seems like what type oil you use makes a big difference.
More info here
http://teae.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3575

 

[nsbluenose]

The new Rootes Parts tensioner may not be the best choice either. Seems like what type oil you use makes a big difference.
More info here
http://teae.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3575

I use 20/50 Valvoline V1 Racing Oil. No additional additives are added. I use it due to the high ZDDP levels.

 

[Barry]

I use 20/50 Valvoline V1 Racing Oil. No additional additives are added. I use it due to the high ZDDP levels.

Are you saying that 20/50 Valvoline V1 Racing Oil will not adversely affect the rubber timing chain tensioner?

 

[nsbluenose]

Are you saying that 20/50 Valvoline V1 Racing Oil will not adversely affect the rubber timing chain tensioner?

No. In response to information link posted above to a teae link, I am saying that I am not using High Mileage oil that will positively swell rubber.

 

[65beam]

No. In response to information link posted above to a teae link, I am saying that I am not using High Mileage oil that will positively swell rubber.

All High Mileage oil does contain a seal conditioner which will cause the rubber to swell. A couple things about the Valvoline V1 oil that you may not know is that it's not intended for extended use like other conventional or synthetic oils since it is an oil blended for short term usage at race conditions. This means you have a different additive package and the one thing added to the package is a friction modifier. This is an item that is not normally used in engine oils except in the case of some racing oils in order to reduce friction of the moving parts which gives more horsepower. Friction modifiers are part of the package for automotive automatic transmission fluids and universal tractor hydraulic fluids formulated for use in transmissions and hydraulic systems of tractors and other equipment with a common reservoir. My guess is that the use of the Valvoline oil led to the destruction of the tensioner due to the friction modifier causing it to swell.

 

[Mike O'D]

Lots of stories of people having problems with the new chain tensioners. How about people that have not had problems with them? Are the problems always a result of some type of "special" oil? I'm not too far away from needing to make the decision of staying with the old one or going with a new one.

Thanks for any input.

Mike

 

[65beam]

Use the old tensioner unless it's totally destroyed. The next thing is to use the correct oil. These engines were built at a time when the API service category was SB. The SC spec was introduced in 1968 . Todays oils are API SN . These current specs provide high temp deposit protection for pistons, advanced sludge control and seal compatibility even on older engines. That means they are backward compatible. They will perform properly under normal driving conditions in these older engines but there is no need for synthetics, race oils or any of the oils from the specialty blenders. Many say they need these oils due to no ZDDP in current oils. There is no other anti wear additive for use in engine oils. It's still in every quart but has been reduced due to emission control system pieces such as Cat convertors. I use conventional 10/40 in all of my Beam engines and I do add ZDDP with the first couple oil changes after being rebuilt. After that I never add any. SN spec oils also protect engines operating on ethanol containing fuels up to E85.

 

[nsbluenose]

Use the old tensioner unless it's totally destroyed. The next thing is to use the correct oil. These engines were built at a time when the API service category was SB. The SC spec was introduced in 1968 . Todays oils are API SN . These current specs provide high temp deposit protection for pistons, advanced sludge control and seal compatibility even on older engines. That means they are backward compatible. They will perform properly under normal driving conditions in these older engines but there is no need for synthetics, race oils or any of the oils from the specialty blenders. Many say they need these oils due to no ZDDP in current oils. There is no other anti wear additive for use in engine oils. It's still in every quart but has been reduced due to emission control system pieces such as Cat convertors. I use conventional 10/40 in all of my Beam engines and I do add ZDDP with the first couple oil changes after being rebuilt. After that I never add any. SN spec oils also protect engines operating on ethanol containing fuels up to E85.

Thanks for the oil information 65beam, there is certainly lots of discussion on correct ZDDP levels. My problem now, as stated in my initial WTB email, is that during last winters engine rebuild the old tensioner was discarded, the new one that was installed did totally disintegrate. So now I need another tensioner. From all reports the new reproduction ones will also fail. That is why I was looking for an NOS or good original used one that I can depend on not to destroy itself.

 

[65beam]

I 'll look today. I should have some good used ones stashed. I'll let you know.

 

[nsbluenose]

I 'll look today. I should have some good used ones stashed. I'll let you know.

Thanks

 

[Mike O'D]

Thanks for the information - good stuff! It's hard for me to imagine that we can't make equivalent or better materials than what we were making 50+ years ago. That being said, the original wire harness from my car is wrapped in electrical tape that is still soft, supple and fully stuck together with no sticky residue oozing out of it. I'd love to find some of that stuff today.

Mike

 

[Gary T]

My experience with taking two wiring harnesses apart is that the wrap is not electrical tape, but is called harness tape and is wrapped with slight overlap and then taped at terminal points. It is PVC and self locking with no adhesive. British Wiring (check Google) has several colors of the tape and I found both blue and black wrap in my experience. This would eliminate any oozing over time from heat up and cool down of the wiring. My 2 cents.

 

[Bill Blue]

I have a "NOS" tensioner with invoice from VB, dated June, '01. Is this a good part or should I deep six it?

Bill

 

[nsbluenose]

I have a "NOS" tensioner with invoice from VB, dated June, '01. Is this a good part or should I deep six it?

Bill

Hard to say. It could be a good reproduction that won't distort. Does the label show where it was manufactured? NOS refers to never used parts from the original manufacturer or supplier, Rootes in this case. Is it marked Rootes or Sunbeam?

 

[Bill Blue]

NOS refers to never used parts from the original manufacturer or supplier, Rootes in this case.

Maybe to you, but not to me. I used NOS in quotes because it predates the currant problem. However, the supplier has an iffy reputation and the part might have other issues. That's why I put in the added info. The part is unmarked. Was your old tensioner marked?

Bill

 

[nsbluenose]

NOS refers to never used parts from the original manufacturer or supplier, Rootes in this case.

Maybe to you, but not to me. I used NOS in quotes because it predates the currant problem. However, the supplier has an iffy reputation and the part might have other issues. That's why I put in the added info. The part is unmarked. Was your old tensioner marked?

Bill

That's my problem, I tossed my old tensioner, should have kept it. I don't know if it was marked or not. I asked that, as I thought if the tensioner still was in a package that the label would tell where is was manufactured. As you say, it predates the current problem, so it should be a good one.

 

[Mike O'D]

Gary T,

Thanks for the information - I'll have to look a little more carefully at the wrap. I just assumed it was electrical tape.

Mike

 

[alpine_64]

NOS refers to never used parts from the original manufacturer or supplier, Rootes in this case.

Maybe to you, but not to me. I used NOS in quotes because it predates the currant problem.
Bill

Bill, NOS normally reffers to unused original period parts ... Your part is a repro from more recent times... Be a bit confussing to people if you say NOS.

As for the part... If you are in no rush why not put it in a container and soak it in some oil for a month and see if it reacts...could be an interesting short term experiment