1. Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

    Dismiss Notice

Windshield frame to body gasket

Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by Acollin, May 1, 2016.

  1. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Thanks for reading -- please advise.
    1966 series V

    I am installing the windshield frame to body gasket. I am getting conflicting information.

    Does the windshield bottom stainless trim get installed before or after the winshield to body gasket is glued to the frame?

    I bought some weldwood contact cement for this job and the dash pad-- are there other adhesives to recommend?

    Please send along any advice for gluing the windshield gasket to frame.


    Thanks all
    Andrew
     
  2. Bikesandfires

    Bikesandfires Donation Time

    You will need the contact cement for the dashpad to dash install. There's several threads describing that process. Quick tips tho are to test fit, test fit, test fit! Make sure it is centered.. Most pads need to have some foam shaved off the front edge to make them lay closer.. Some may need to have foam shaved from inside the top curve to make it match up with the defroster duct openings. Check the other threads for tips on finding and marking locations of Lift-a-dot snaps.

    Windshield frame to body gasket gets a strip of rope caulk... NOT CONTACT CEMENT! Rope caulk might be called "dumdum" at the parts store. It's black, comes on a roll.. Tear off however much you need and lay it down right in front of the dashpad material. Silicone sealer can be used... make about a 3/8' bead and let it skin over and semi cure.

    Windshield stainless trip gets installed after frame AND windshield is installed.

    The jury is still out on glueing the windshield gasket into the frame. Some do... some don't... I'v done it both ways. If it's a new gasket I usually don't, it's not supposed to leak. If you decide to glue it to the frame, just wipe a small skim into the gasket groove and install while it's still wet. Be ready to install the windshield at the same time because if you wait till later and the sealer you used on the gasket has already cured, it is going to break loose during the glass install... make it more difficult to get the glass in... and generally be a wasted effort. If you glue the gasket to frame, you might as well glue the glass to the gasket too. Do it the same way, smear a little sealer into the bottom of the glass groove all the way around and install.
     
  3. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Thanks for the reply, but I'm not sure we are talking about the same gasket.

    There is a gasket that goes between the windshield frame and the body of the car. It sits on a layer of putty on top of the dash pad. The gasket traps the bottom edge of the bottom stainless trim piece. On the edge of the gasket that is on the inside of the windscreen ( inside the car) it is shaped like a tube. This tube will sit on the dash pad.
    I think I need to glue that gasket onto the bottom of the windshield frame. My question is: can I glue that tube like length of the gasket to the windshield frame-- allow it to dry/ cure and then stretch the part of the gasket that is on the outside of the windshield up onto the stainless trim? Will the glue take all that tugging?

    My glass is in the gasket-- not glued-- don't plan to.
    My stainless trim is attached all around the frame.
    I am still fitting my dash pad-- not yet glued

    For now, I am just looking to secure/glue the windshield frame to the gasket that lives between the frame and the body. This is what I don't yet understand.

    Thanks
    Andrew
     
  4. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    Since you said you haven't glue the pad down yet, let me throw this out to the community for comment. I installed a new dash pad last summer. During the final dry fit it occurred to me that the pad looked good, it fit the contour of the dash well, the leading edge is trapped under the windshield frame, the trailing edge is glued up under the dash, the vent covers & tonneau snaps are secured through the pad... Is it necessary to glue the pad to the dash? So I didn't glue it. So far so good. Although I don't anticipate any problems, time will tell.
    I'm not recommending that you should do this but I would like to hear the thoughts on this from the community since it eliminates the difficulty & anxiety of gluing the pad to the dash.
     
  5. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Thanks for the reply.
    I appreciate any information as I try to do all this stuff myself.

    I have heard that heat ( sun reflected though the windshield) can be a real problem for the pad and distortion of the pad can occur. A heat sensitive glue is usually recommended. Maybe some glue strategically smeared should be the alternative.

    What did you do in terms of gluing with the windshield frame to body gasket? The gasket with that "tube shaped end. I am much more concerned about a gluing foul up there.

    Given your non gluing methods. I wonder what would happen if one trimmed the tubular section off the windshield frame to body gasket and simply allowed the windshield frame and the bottom stainless strip to hold the gasket secure.

    Thoughts please--- the more the merrier!!!!
     
  6. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    I'm sorry Andrew, I realized after I submitted my reply that I highjacked your thread. I'll start a new thread. Good luck with your project... Sorry
     
  7. P. Scofield

    P. Scofield Bronze Level Sponsor

    TL,
    that's a daring venture! But, if your car is a weekend warrior and is stored inside most of the time, I think your right, it would not need to be glued.
    My only fear for the dash moving or warping would be in direct heat and sun for long periods.

    Acollin,
    You're right, that frame to body gasket is just a bugger. There is really no good way to secure the rear of the gasket (hollow bead) without leaving grade school globs of glue everywhere. So here is how I do it. If the holes you put in the GASKET qare properly located, this should keep the gasket from falling off while you set in place. If not, a little bit of adhesive on the very front edge to hold the gasket is ok. Just don't over do it. Once the frame is in position (rope caulking under) put the washers and nuts on the underside, but only hand tight.

    Now, with a long pair of needle nose pliers, slowly, deliberately and GENTLY so you don't tear the gasket, work your way along the backside and tug that rear bead so it's fully exposed and the rear of the frame sits inside it. You will need to tighten the frame bolts a little more as you work your way along. The corners will need the most attention.

    Good luck!
     
  8. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    Andrew... My Alpine is going to be strictly a sunny day leisurely driver. I did not use any sealers when installing the windshield since I don't plan on having it out if it threatens rain.
    I did not glue the bead on the gasket to the windshield frame and didn't really have a problem with it slidding under the frame when I tightened down the windshield.... Terry
     
  9. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Thats very helpful.

    I guess once I put my dash pad is in place giving your system a try will make good sense.

    Aside from the center hold down point and things like tonneau pins, did you trim your pad?

    Were you just able to pull the tubuler bead through once you placed the windshield frame and all in place? Did you set the tube under the dash and then slip the bottom edge of the stainless into the gasket?

    Thanks for answering my questions. I really do not like "redos". If I can take my best shot and go slowly, I believe that is all I will hopefully need.
    Andrew
     
  10. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Hey Paul

    Thanks for chiming in. I did a pretty good job of placing the holes in the gasket. I went in opposition to the packag d directions and lined my gasket up on the holes in the body as opposed to the studs on the frame. The tubular bead is well placed through that two stud section on either end of the rrame and the gasket is nicely tight to the trim in those sections as well.

    I am a little leary about pulling that tubular section with a tool. Any marks made in it will really show-- a constant screw up reminder that evertime I get in the car( haha).
    I am hoping TL has a bit more advice about setting that bead without glue. All my gaskets are SS and new, so I am confident I am working with good products.

    Andrew
     
  11. Bikesandfires

    Bikesandfires Donation Time

    Sorry.... I didn't address that part of the question. I did NOT glue the gasket to the frame and didn't have any real problem setting the frame and gasket onto the body... but it IS a 2 person job. I didn't start any of the nuts at first. One of us held the frame generally in place, and the other finagled the fit until everything was in the right place.

    I didn't put any of the trim on until after the frame was mounted to the body.
     
  12. P. Scofield

    P. Scofield Bronze Level Sponsor

    Well, your choice but with some care, you don't have to worry about damage. Put some tape on some bone edge nose pliers and tug gently.

    The bead around the back edge should be entirely inside the car. I see many that are 1/2 smashed under the frame. This changes the profile of the front apron of the gasket.

    Good luck, I'm sure it will look fantastic.
     
  13. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    Andrew... I trimmed my dash pad to the front contour of the windshield frame and removed the padding on the back of the pad to the rear contour of the frame plus 1/8".
    When mounting the frame to the car I identified a few spots (mostly where the windshield curves the most) where the gasket bead wanted to stay beneath the frame. I cut strips of nylon strap (like what is used on ratchet hold down straps). I placed the pieces of strap under the gasket in the trouble spots and tightened the frame down enough to offer resistance when I pulled on the strap but not so much that the strap wouldn't slid from beneath the gasket. The trick is to tighten the frame enough that the strap pulls the gasket but won't let the gasket slip back underneath the frame when you pull the strap clear out.
    Now keep in mind that I didn't have any sealants of any kind under my gasket, which made it easier to do what I did.
    Like Paul said "it can be a bugger" but it is doable and once you get started I think you'll
    find that it's not that bad...... Terry
     
  14. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    This discussion has been truly enlightening. I wonder how many people who like to do their own work do not follow the directions that come with the pad and gaskets.

    Terry: I think I need one more question answered.
    In your first sentence , you refer to the "back" of the pad for trimming. Do you refer to the underside? Sorry for being so literal. What did you see that told you to do this trimming?

    While I believe I will put some kind of cement on the underside of the pad, I really feel very good about going at this without gluing the windshield frame to body gasket. As a doityourselfer I have no trouble finagaling for hours. Without glue, Seems to make this task much more reasonable.

    Thanks all--- it will still be a few days before I can get to it---- stay tuned.
    Be well
    Andrew
     
  15. Chuck Ingram

    Chuck Ingram Donation Time

    Never had a problem with installing a windshield in our Sunbeams.
    Frame off and on a padded bench makes it easy. Did 3
    I'm hesitant in doing my son's 53 Meteor.. Problem is I know how and front and back are ready including the pull cord. Needs two people

    Anyway not much time as yard work is priority. Almost done. Have huge lotoloto
     
  16. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    Yes, the underside of the pad. The hard part is to transfer the contour of back of windshield frame to the under side of the dash pad. I used masking tape on the top of the pad so I could trace the back contour of the frame to the top of the pad. Then I measure the distance every inch or so from the front edge of the pad to that line on top of the pad. And then transferred that measurement with a dot to the underside of the pad. Then connect the dots and you have a reasonable line of the back contour of the frame to the underside of the pad. Remember I added an 1/8" to that so the edge of the frame isn't coming down on top of the edge of the padding underneath. I used a razor blade to remove the padding.... Terry
     
  17. T L Alfreno

    T L Alfreno Gold Level Sponsor

    Yes, the underside of the pad. The hard part is to transfer the contour of back of windshield frame to the under side of the dash pad. I used masking tape on the top of the pad so I could trace the back contour of the frame to the top of the pad. Then I measure the distance every inch or so from the front edge of the pad to that line on top of the pad. And then transferred that measurement with a dot to the underside of the pad. Then connect the dots and you have a reasonable line of the back contour of the frame to the underside of the pad. Remember I added an 1/8" to that so the edge of the frame isn't coming down on top of the edge of the padding underneath. I used a razor blade to remove the padding.... Terry
     
  18. Acollin

    Acollin Donation Time

    Hey Terry

    I am still a bit confused as to why you shaved the underside of the dash pad beneath the window frame.
    My wife is convinced that we have different dash pads as mine is simply a thin bit of molded material without any real backing to consider. I never consider shaving material where you did--- my assumption is that it would simply be mashed between the body and the windshield frame.

    I bought mine recently from Sunbeam Specialties part number IP 79.
    Thanks again for all your help
    Andrew
     

Share This Page