Tightening Intake Manifold

[Scotty]

Two questions for the SIV Log Manifold used for the Weber 32/36:

What are the steps to tightening the manifold to the head without breaking the bolts? What is the torque setting?

Awhile ago, I went to tighten the center bolt on the intake manifold and it tightened by a quarter of a flat. Been thinking about that and been afraid to touch more than that after reading that others have broken bolts trying to do the same as I.

Any advice or such on top of that would be absolutely welcome and appreciated.

Thanks fam!

 

[Barry]

I suggest that you obtain and use a chart of standard torque values for various fastener grades / sizes / thread counts and a torque wrench. The chart will cost nothing more than a few minutes of your time and you can get a decent 3/8" or 1/2" click-style torque wrench for less than $50.

 

[jumpinjan]

...tighten the center bolt on the intake manifold and it tightened by a quarter of a flat.

Use a stud instead of a bolt. And never worry about it being tightened.
Jan

 

[Scotty]

Use a stud instead of a bolt. And never worry about it being tightened.
Jan

That's excellent advice! If I take off the manifold, I will absolutely follow your advice. Makes too much sense.

 

[Scotty]

I suggest that you obtain and use a chart of standard torque values for various fastener grades / sizes / thread counts and a torque wrench. The chart will cost nothing more than a few minutes of your time and you can get a decent 3/8" or 1/2" click-style torque wrench for less than $50.

I have torque wrenches and a digital torque adapter. The chart I didn't think of and I appreciate the suggestion. Just found one online that I'm printing out.

 

[Barry]

Use a stud instead of a bolt. And never worry about it being tightened.
Jan

What Jan said! Repeatedly threading / tightening a steel bolt in an aluminum head is a recipe for stripped threads. Studs are a much better mousetrap.

 

[Scotty]

What Jan said! Repeatedly threading / tightening a steel bolt in an aluminum head is a recipe for stripped threads. Studs are a much better mousetrap.

This is one of the reasons why I'm worried. Two different metals, especially with a metal like the head that's alloy, soft and will warp or strip or worse if you look at it in just the wrong way.

I'm sorry if my questions come off dumb, I'd rather ask a stupid question and feel dumb than risk damaging something because I've never done it or I don't have enough information.

 

[Eleven]

I don't know if it's right or not but I've always used anti-seize compound on every bolt or stud going into the head.

 

[Shannon Boal]

Three 3/8" coarse/fine studs hold intake; coarse thread into cylinder head, fine threads with nut and thick hard washers holding intake. Most of the time I set these studs into heli-coils into the aluminum head. I go by feel, but imagine torque at 18-24 foot-pounds, recheck after a week or so...