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Temp Sender & Gauge

Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by woodybap, Aug 3, 2020.

  1. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    Hi There:
    My 'mongrel' of an Alpine is mostly SI [body] and SV [engine].
    Not getting a correct reading on the temp gauge [all the way to the left or just budging a smidge].
    Have grounded the sender and the needle jumps to the right so I am thinking 'bad sender'.
    Checked hartmandm's fabulous data lists but did not see a gauge that looks like mine. Photos attached.
    I plan to replace the sender but notice that there are 2 different versions for SI and SV.
    Do any members have any wisdom for me about what gauge I have and which sender would work better?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Warren

    Warren Bronze Level Sponsor

    There are also two listed for the Tiger in the parts list. Possibly it's because one is in Celsius and The other in Fahrenheit.
    This gets more complicated as I'm not quite sure how an Alpine one goes together but some are pipe thread and some are regular old thread. I was going to see what S.S. offered today because I'd like to get one with the correct push on spade terminal not like all the Mustang ones that they're trying to sell me.
     
  3. phyrman

    phyrman SAOCA Secretary Diamond Level Sponsor

    Are you also using the voltage stabilizer? and everything properly grounded?
    Gauges are just ohm meters that are calibrated to the sending units and all connections and wires need to be in good order
    Could also be a faulty gauge/sending unit.
    Price of Darkness strikes again!!
     
  4. hartmandm

    hartmandm Moderator Platinum Level Sponsor

    I haven't seen that faceplate before, but based on the back of the gauge, it looks like you have an earlier type temperature gauge with the resistor bridge arrangement (same gauge style as the Alpine series 1 & 2 gauges). The early series gauges use a different temperature sender than the series 3 to 5 gauges. The sender folks are selling today does not produce quite the same resistance values. But it is still usable once you correlate how normal operating temperature at the sender housing translates to the gauge reading.

    No voltage stabilizer is needed with the earlier gauges.

    I'll send you a draft version of a document Tom Hayden and I have been working on with more info about how these gauges work and trouble shooting steps.

    Mike
     
    woodybap likes this.
  5. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    Great - According to Classic's website, they still have senders for S1-2 so I will grab one of those.
     
  6. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    Photo of fuel gauge
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Tom H

    Tom H Platinum Level Sponsor

    Woody, I'll bet that if you look way to the left on the dial, behind the "dial shield" you will see a model number beginning with TC followed by 4 numbers and maybe a / and more numbers, something like TC 4300/01. And as Mike says the sensors available today for these early type gauges are slightly different than original, but with a dial face like you have with just Cold - Normal- and Hot, I think they will work perfectly.

    Tom
     
    woodybap likes this.
  8. Tom H

    Tom H Platinum Level Sponsor

    Look for a model number on the Fuel gauge as well. Should begin with FG. BTW, does your cooling system look like an SI system with a tank up front or is it like an SV, with an SV thermostat housing. Is it likely that the sender is the original type sender used on an SV, since the engine is an SV?

    Tom
     
    woodybap likes this.
  9. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    Bingo!! Temp = TC4304/05 Fuel = FG2331/03
     
  10. hartmandm

    hartmandm Moderator Platinum Level Sponsor

  11. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

  12. hartmandm

    hartmandm Moderator Platinum Level Sponsor

    Yes
     
    woodybap likes this.
  13. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    OK, put in new S1 type sender but no glory. At startup the gauge is all the way to the left. When the engine is completely warmed up the needle has only moved about 2 needle widths to the right. I bypassed the wire from the sender to the gauge but got the same result. Wiring issue? There are 4 wires coming to the gauge. The green sender wire to a single pole terminal on the steering wheel side, two other green wires that go to a double pole terminal on the passenger side and a black ground wire that connects to the dash bracket. It is a driver on the left [US] configuration. Any suggestions on what to try next? Can you help tell me which wires go where and what they do? Thanks.
     
  14. woodybap

    woodybap Silver Level Sponsor

    Thanks all but do not need a reply right now. Found the great info I had previously been sent and that helped a lot. Sorry for the confusion.
     

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