SV V6 Restoration

[DanR]

Andy, do you know how much "travel" the slave you are using has? Who is manufacturer of it? DO you have an instruction sheet that tells the details onthe Slave?

I am not familar to the slave you have pictured.....

 

[Beamin]

Problem solved. It was indeed the orientation of the throw out bearing.

To summarize what I think was happening:
As the clutch fork arm rotates across its arc, there is a very small amount of up & down movement at the base of the fork where the bearing sits. The way the bearing is mounted allows for a bit of up and down shift within the clutch fork. With the tear drop bump in the bearing facing down, as the clutch fork rotated up, the bearing would bottom out in the bottom of the fork. With the engine and transmission separated, there was just enough play in the input shaft to allow for the bearing to travel along its full path, but once the engine and transmission where mated together, the input shaft was fixed in place. As the clutch fork rotated up and the tear drop bump hit the bottom of the fork, any further travel of the bearing was stopped.

That’s my best attempt at explaining my theory. For all I know, it could just be blind luck. Third time’s the charm…that sort of thing. All I know for sure is that it works now. However, I am probably going to have to play around with different master cylinder bore sizes as I think my wife’s leg will tire pretty quickly .

 

[bulldurham]

For what it is worth , my Wilwood pull type slave was pretty hard from day one, but it has been reliable, going on 10 years now.
I will be changing the mounting bracket to move it further away from the header as I think heat is an issue.

 

[DanR]

With the tear drop bump in the bearing facing down, as the clutch fork rotated up, the bearing would bottom out in the bottom of the fork.

Looks like we learned something from your experience.....

 

[260Alpine]

Andy, Look at Datsun Z and pickup 5/8" master on Rockauto.

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 0726521 (rockauto.com)

 

[Beamin]

Look at Datsun Z and pickup 5/8" master on Rockauto.

Within about a dozen pushes of the clutch pedal after I got things working, the slave cylinder crapped out…maybe pushing REALLY hard on the clutch pedal when things were jamming up damaged the internals. I ordered the Summit Racing slave cylinder and a 5/8” MC (think its a Wilwood). Hopefully the shorter stroke slave coupled with the smaller MC will be enough to disengage the clutch.

 

[Fordtootsie]

Looking Good - Mine has 48 patch panels and looked like yours when I started. I hope to get mine started for the first time this week

John

 

[Beamin]

What’s the acceptable fuel pump pressure for a stock Motorcraft 2100 carb? Getting very close to starting the motor on this project. Turned on the key yesterday, the fuel pump kicked on, and shortly thereafter fuel starts flowing out the top of the carb. It’s been sitting for 3 years, so I figured maybe the float valve was stuck open. Pulled off the top of the carb, removed the float and needle valve, checked everything out and put it back together. Turned on the key and the same thing happens. I installed a new fuel pump during the restoration, so figured maybe it’s cranking out too much pressure, but a pressure gauge shows only 5.5psi. From what I can find online, that shouldn’t be too much, but who knows. For the time being, I decided to tweak the float level, which stopped the overflow situation for now, but might cause issues later on down the road.

 

[260Alpine]

Pressure sounds right. Float level may have been too high. Did you fix your clutch issue?

 

[Beamin]

Did you fix your clutch issue?

I think so. Swapped out both the master and slave. I’m a little concerned that the clutch is just barely disengaging at the very end of travel on the slave/pedal, but nothing is binding now and the amount of force required to press the pedal seems acceptable for what my wife will like.

 

[DanR]

I have a pressure regulator on mine and try to set at 4 for the 4bbl

Haven't had any problems yet

 

[Paul A]

What’s the acceptable fuel pump pressure for a stock Motorcraft 2100 carb? Getting very close to starting the motor on this project. Turned on the key yesterday, the fuel pump kicked on, and shortly thereafter fuel starts flowing out the top of the carb. It’s been sitting for 3 years, so I figured maybe the float valve was stuck open. Pulled off the top of the carb, removed the float and needle valve, checked everything out and put it back together. Turned on the key and the same thing happens. I installed a new fuel pump during the restoration, so figured maybe it’s cranking out too much pressure, but a pressure gauge shows only 5.5psi. From what I can find online, that shouldn’t be too much, but who knows. For the time being, I decided to tweak the float level, which stopped the overflow situation for now, but might cause issues later on down the road.

When cold starting after long periods of down time I always had to pump the gas pedal a couple of times prior to engaging the starter.... fyi you have done beautiful work.

 

[Beamin]

Well shoot!

Today was the day to pull the project out of the garage under its own power for the first time in 3 years. I got the motor up and running last week. Sputtered a few times until it blew a bunch of fuel out the back of the headers from when I was having float level problems a few days prior, but then she rumbled to life. She definitely sounds mean given that I need to make an appointment at the exhaust shop. Today, I cleared a path out the garage door. She’s not road worthy yet, but figured I could run her up the street to identify any issues.

Found one.

Once she got up to full temp and I started to pull it out the garage, clearance between the radiator and fan became an issue. Not sure if the engine shifted every so slightly when under load, or the radiator expanded ever so slightly once up to temp, or the fan blade developed ever so slight of a wobble when under load, or maybe all of the above. The end result was that within feet of seeing sunlight (well, it’s actually overcast today…) for the first time in a long time, the ever so slight clearance between fan and radiator became a significant issue.

I switched back to a mechanical fan during this process and went with what I think was a stock fan for the motor that I found on eBay. The radiator was a modified SIV. Back to the radiator shop I go. I”ve got a couple early series radiators lying around. I’ll take the mangled radiator and one of these spares down and see what they can come up with. The tips of the fan blades got folded back. Not sure if I can pound those out and get any semblance of balance, plus I’ll still have the same issue, so I’ll start looking for other options. I want to stick with a mechanical fan. Does the Volvo fan mod provide for more clearance?

Soooo close…..

 

[Beamin]

Here’s a shot of the carnage. I’m heading to the radiator shop today to see what they can do. The second pic shows the clearance of the rear-most blade, so the forward-most blade is approximately 1/16” of an inch closer. From what I can tell, once things got up to speed, that forward blades must have flexed just a bit and got caught under the top flange of the radiator housing. The tips of each fan blade curl outward just a bit and extend beyond the edge of that top flange by about 1/4”, so I’m thinking grinding off about 1/4” from each blade will increase the total clearance to within an acceptable range.

 

[Bill Blue]

The Volvo fan is made of nylon, so you can get as much clearance as you need with a pocket knife. However, the thing starts out pretty thick. I'd say if the stock fan is too thick, don't even bother to look at a Volvo..

Bill

 

[DanR]

Andy, Can you post some PIC's of your water pump where the fan bolts up?

How about some PIC's of the engine mounts and their location on the crossmember?

Can understand why such lack of clearance between the fan and the radiator.....

 

[Beamin]

Andy, Can you post some PIC's of your water pump where the fan bolts up?

How about some PIC's of the engine mounts and their location on the crossmember?

Can understand why such lack of clearance between the fan and he radiator.....

Here you go. Couldn’t tell you anything about this water pump, as it was part of the package from the get go. I was told the motor is out of a 78 Mutt II. The back end of the motor mounts are pushed up against the back side of the cross member, which actually positioned everything back at least an inch from where the motor sat with the motor mounts that were in place when I purchased the car.

 

[DanR]

Engine moiunts look in the right place. Harmonic balancer pulley location looks OK.

How about a better PIC of that water pump? The neck looks abit long?

 

[DanR]

I'm really puzzled. You should have at least 3/4" and more many be up to 1" full clearance between the fan and the radiator.

How did you have the fan mounted? Any spacers? You mentioned (I believe) the fan had edges turned at an angle on the tips? Were they pointing toward the engine or the radiator??

What is the diameter of the fan blades?

Below is a PIC of one of my Mutt II Water Pumps showing the approximate length of the snout on the pump.

 

[DanR]

I'm really puzzled. You should have at least 3/4" and more many be up to 1" full clearance between the fan and the radiator.

How did you have the fan mounted? Any spacers? You mentioned (I believe) the fan had edges turned at an angle of the tips? Were they pointing toward the engine or the radiator??

What is the diameter of the fan blades?