The Rooster
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Hello fine folks,
I just did a forum search (of titles only) and was surprised to find so few having CD150 in the title and none marked rebuild, so I though I would start one.
I have a series 5 with dual Stromberg CD150 carburetors. Even before the front one started leaking last week, I knew I should rebuild them, so away we go. I ordered 2 rebuild kits from the good folks at Sunbeam Specialties. The kit includes lots of parts, of which I used only 7. The "instructions" we'll call them are very general and lack any specifics, or a parts lists, or any diagrams.
Forgive my lack of proper terms ahead, but if I had a diagram, then I'd know what to call each part.
I found 2 helpful videos on youtube. I was so impressed with one that I posted it on another thread here. He was so meticulous. However, once I viewed it for ALL the info, I can see where it is lacking. The other is a 3-part video. It has just music playing and no words spoken, however words are printed on screen sometimes. Video #2 is 45 minutes of cleaning, so I skipped thru it. Ultimately between what I saw, I was able to finish the job and just got back from my second 2-mile drive with no issues.
- Pretty low volume, but good
- part 1 of 3 parts
Here are the parts of the kit I used:
-Float bowl gasket
-Jet
-thinner washer - I used for the jet
-Large O-ring
-Small O-ring
-Smaller of the 2 medium sized O-rings
-Bladder for piston (one of them was made wrong so I re-used old one)
Video 1 talks about the thinner and thicker washers in the kit as being for needle seat spacing (long brass 3-part piece that the needle goes into). My first carb (I started with the one closer to the windshield) was not worked on nearly as recently as the front carb. This one did not have a washer above the "brass stick". I only realized when the second one I worked on did have one there. I just reused the old one. Perhaps it was stuck and is still there, but I think it didn't have one. The interior of this carb was very clean. The second carb had a lot more soot and charring inside. It was rebuilt more recently and had the float bowl gasket installed incorrectly and the bowl screws were not very tight. The float bowls on both carbs were what I would call clean. That was reassuring regarding my fuel tanks, and the suggestions that if you haven't resealed them, you will need to soon.
I did notice that my carbs differ slightly from the ones in both videos, in that my floats do not snap free, but the hinge rod is screwed together. I did not take mine apart. Both of mine had different jets than in the video and in the kits, in that the nut was tapered. Already difficult enough to find the correct tool and angle to remove a proper one, so I had to use needle-nosed vice grips. A 1/16 of a turn got it free. I think I used a 13mm wrench to tighten the new ones. Also, in the 3-part, he took something apart very late in the disassembly, in fact it was almost an after thought on his part, that I don't have at all on my carbs. Looked like another brass jet or something outside under the top oil bowl. Nothing there on mine.
I poured out the oil from the top of each before taking them apart and found it is only about a tablespoon full. That's about how much I put back. Seems to be OK. I used ATF.
I did not disassemble any of the levers, just the top and bottom. I feared I'd never be able to get it all back correctly again :0
Therefore, I did not change any of the original settings. Everything seems fine. I'm sure you real mechanics are cringing, but I needed to stay within my limitations.
My "half-moon" choke lever that rides against the throttle screw, which ultimately opens the throttle a touch at full, was bent inward and not operating freely and probably not opening the throttle before. I restored it to it's proper shape.
For the hand-adjustable "screw" at the bottom of the carb, I set it all the way tight, then backed it out 1 1/4 turns. This is where the one I hadn't taken apart yet was set. Again, I wish I knew what it was called and frankly what it was for. Probably important to know.
I also added an in-line fuel filter. I'm kind of afraid to mess with the original one at the fuel pump. The metal looks brittle and the glass is no longer available.
So far, she starts much better and runs better.
If you have any experience to add, I'm sure it will be much appreciated to others and to me. I can't wait to stop calling stuff the thingy with the whatchamacallit.
I just did a forum search (of titles only) and was surprised to find so few having CD150 in the title and none marked rebuild, so I though I would start one.
I have a series 5 with dual Stromberg CD150 carburetors. Even before the front one started leaking last week, I knew I should rebuild them, so away we go. I ordered 2 rebuild kits from the good folks at Sunbeam Specialties. The kit includes lots of parts, of which I used only 7. The "instructions" we'll call them are very general and lack any specifics, or a parts lists, or any diagrams.
Forgive my lack of proper terms ahead, but if I had a diagram, then I'd know what to call each part.
I found 2 helpful videos on youtube. I was so impressed with one that I posted it on another thread here. He was so meticulous. However, once I viewed it for ALL the info, I can see where it is lacking. The other is a 3-part video. It has just music playing and no words spoken, however words are printed on screen sometimes. Video #2 is 45 minutes of cleaning, so I skipped thru it. Ultimately between what I saw, I was able to finish the job and just got back from my second 2-mile drive with no issues.
Here are the parts of the kit I used:
-Float bowl gasket
-Jet
-thinner washer - I used for the jet
-Large O-ring
-Small O-ring
-Smaller of the 2 medium sized O-rings
-Bladder for piston (one of them was made wrong so I re-used old one)
Video 1 talks about the thinner and thicker washers in the kit as being for needle seat spacing (long brass 3-part piece that the needle goes into). My first carb (I started with the one closer to the windshield) was not worked on nearly as recently as the front carb. This one did not have a washer above the "brass stick". I only realized when the second one I worked on did have one there. I just reused the old one. Perhaps it was stuck and is still there, but I think it didn't have one. The interior of this carb was very clean. The second carb had a lot more soot and charring inside. It was rebuilt more recently and had the float bowl gasket installed incorrectly and the bowl screws were not very tight. The float bowls on both carbs were what I would call clean. That was reassuring regarding my fuel tanks, and the suggestions that if you haven't resealed them, you will need to soon.
I did notice that my carbs differ slightly from the ones in both videos, in that my floats do not snap free, but the hinge rod is screwed together. I did not take mine apart. Both of mine had different jets than in the video and in the kits, in that the nut was tapered. Already difficult enough to find the correct tool and angle to remove a proper one, so I had to use needle-nosed vice grips. A 1/16 of a turn got it free. I think I used a 13mm wrench to tighten the new ones. Also, in the 3-part, he took something apart very late in the disassembly, in fact it was almost an after thought on his part, that I don't have at all on my carbs. Looked like another brass jet or something outside under the top oil bowl. Nothing there on mine.
I poured out the oil from the top of each before taking them apart and found it is only about a tablespoon full. That's about how much I put back. Seems to be OK. I used ATF.
I did not disassemble any of the levers, just the top and bottom. I feared I'd never be able to get it all back correctly again :0
Therefore, I did not change any of the original settings. Everything seems fine. I'm sure you real mechanics are cringing, but I needed to stay within my limitations.
My "half-moon" choke lever that rides against the throttle screw, which ultimately opens the throttle a touch at full, was bent inward and not operating freely and probably not opening the throttle before. I restored it to it's proper shape.
For the hand-adjustable "screw" at the bottom of the carb, I set it all the way tight, then backed it out 1 1/4 turns. This is where the one I hadn't taken apart yet was set. Again, I wish I knew what it was called and frankly what it was for. Probably important to know.
I also added an in-line fuel filter. I'm kind of afraid to mess with the original one at the fuel pump. The metal looks brittle and the glass is no longer available.
So far, she starts much better and runs better.
If you have any experience to add, I'm sure it will be much appreciated to others and to me. I can't wait to stop calling stuff the thingy with the whatchamacallit.
You will still be using your above descriptions until you learn to translate UK English.