Steering wheel removal

[Jeb Stuart]

To pull the steering wheel. Does this nut come off? Seems like it would but instead of threads it looks like groves.
Thanks once again Jeb

 

[gary1725]

Yes - that will free the steering wheel.

 

[Scotty]

Be careful with just tugging it out, there are fine splines on there that can be damaged easily. I'd suggest marking where it before removing so you can put it back as it was.

Which turn signal switch are you using?

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Good idea about marking it. Thanks. I still haven’t been able to get that nut loose. Have been adding a little penetrating oil each day. Will try again this weekend but supposed to be cold again.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

How does one get the above nut loose? Is there a special way? First nut was easy. I took the steering wheel off once before (decades ago) but can’t see how I did it. Thanks

 

[Jeb Stuart]

If you look closely at the nut (blow it up) it seems to have groves for the spinal as opposed to threads. Is it possible this does not come off and is attached to the wheel?

 

[Jeb Stuart]

As you can see on this one in my basement the threads end and the spindle starts.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Can't remember if that nut is "sided" but I do see the "spline" markings on that side of the nut. It has to come off to remove the wheel ... maybe someone bogered up the threads or even the spines. You referred to another nut that came off easy was that the telescoping adjuster piece your speaking of (#47)?

.... David

 

[spmdr]

Jeb, yes, that big steel nut IS part of the wheel.

Usually you can't see it so much because of the plastic

...that is missing from your wheel ..hub.

I have taken most wheels off with a very

firm constant pull on the spokes with a

very small rocking side to side.

DW

 

[SoCal'beaming]

This is what mine looked like .. Thanks DW for clarifying that .. My error Jeb .. I didn't remember that part on the hub.

....

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Here is a picture of one off the internet which appears to have this. Maybe an odd S3 thing? The series has a lot of odd things about it.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Here is a picture of one off the internet which appears to have this. Maybe an odd S3 thing? The series has a lot of odd things about it.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Here is a picture of one off the internet which appears to have this. Maybe an odd S3 thing? The series has a lot of odd things about it.

Didn't realize it was a S3 ... that was a transitional year. I believe they all have something like that nut in the hubs/frame of the st. wheel so the first nut has something to tighten against and not just the plastic hub itself. Have you had any luck with lube and rocking it side to side and top to bottom? ... As DW said hold the "spokes" while gently rocking it.

... David

 

[Tim R]

This might help you.
Tim R

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Finally finished to paint and polish. Put it back on tomorrow.
Thanks for everyone’s help.

 

[puff4]

Very pretty.

I don't know if you're going for originality, or you're dong your own thing? It's hard to tell with the reflection, but that round, chrome horn ring should have semi-flat black paint in the thin depression at the center of it. Also, the blades holding the ring should be semi-flat black. The only thing that was left as chrome on the original horn rings was the inner and outer circular rings.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Thanks. Your correct. I do have the original horn ring - but broken. I got this one maybe 20+ years ago from I don’t know where. I worried the black paint would stick very well. Has anyone fixed the original horn rings? They all seem to break in the same place.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Replaced the clock too. Other one had a red face. Would do well in a car with red interior - maybe.

 

[puff4]

I worried the black paint would stick very well. Has anyone fixed the original horn rings? They all seem to break in the same place.

Yes, I repaired mine. It broke in the usual place, where the lateral perforated braces connect to the central hub. I carefully ground the back side of the broken areas with a coarse Dremel carbide bit, to rough them up. Then I used PC7 epoxy to join the parts, creating a wide fillet over the area I’d roughened up, and carefully smoothed it out with a moistened finger. Once hardened, I thoroughly cleaned the surfaces with lacquer thinner. Then I spray painted the back side in silver, and the lateral perforated braces with Krylon semi-flat black, and used a fine brush to apply that same semi-flat paint to the center groove of the rim.

I did all this about 25 years ago. Still holding up fine.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

I’ll try it. Thanks!