Starter problems - Solutions requested

[SierraNev]

Good afternoon,
I have a similar problem with my Series V. Went to start it up on Saturday for a quick tour in 60 degree So Cal weather and she would not start. I had the battery tested and it was fine, less than a year old. When I turn the key I got a click. So I gave the wife a 2 x 4 and a small mallet and when I turned the key, with a few taps, the car started perfectly.

I put in 20/50 high zinc oil in July. I was not really happy about rebuilding / replacing the starter.

I guess I have some trouble shooting to perform this weekend.

Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Can 20/50 oil at 40 degrees keep the engine from turning over? Any ideas on testing the starter without pulling it from the engine?

Thanks again

Emmett

 

[hartmandm]

When you hear the click I assume the starter doesn't move at all.

What was tapped - the starter solenoid or the starter?

The starter solenoid could click internally but not complete the circuit and supply current to the starter. You can check if you are seeing 12V at the starter connection at the solenoid with the ignition in the 'start' position.

Check the starter solenoid ground connection, which is through its firewall mounting screws.

Do you have a good ground strap for the engine? You can check the resistance between the engine and the chassis. I believe you should see less than 1 ohm resistance.

Then it could be the starter ...

Mike

 

[Hillman]

I'd clean the connections on whatever part your wife tapped.

 

[husky drvr]

Can 20/50 oil at 40 degrees keep the engine from turning over? Any ideas on testing the starter without pulling it from the engine?

Emmett,

The short answer is "No, it shouldn't."

If you decide to delve into viscosity comparison charts, there is an interesting thing about SAE 20W-50 and straight SAE 30 viscosities at 0*C (32F*). Both viscosities are almost identical. As the comparison temp lowers, then 20W-50 has an advantage with a lower viscosity. At 100*C (212*F), then 20W-50 does have a higher viscosity than SAE 30. The thing is both oils only have a VERY small percentage of their 0 C* viscosity at the higher temp.

Way back in the day, when I was an off campus student and my normal ride was down due to engine problems, I was driving the Husky for my commute to class. It contained a 1725 with some minor improvements and a 0.030" under size crank. Because of the crank, the oil was always 20W-50. I never had a problem starting it even down to low teen (F*) temps. Starting, no problem. Getting up to operating temp was the real challenge.

So I gave the wife a 2 x 4 and a small mallet and when I turned the key, with a few taps, the car started perfectly.

Seems to be a classic test for worn or sticking contact brushes. Down on starting power could also be related to the brushes.

Here again, checking all the ELECTRICAL connections should be the first priority. The WSM has some on the car testing procedures you might try to get some idea about what is going on.

Hope this helps,

Don

 

[Acollin]

There is a significant difference from moving from say 20/50 to 10/30. Starting viscosity is nearly halved. On colder days for my 66 series V it could be the difference between starting and not. It happened to me just weeks ago. I ran 20/50 in the summer months and did not make the change when the weather turned. Car starts fine now with a fully charged battery.
That said: with a full battery charge, I would expect your starter to spin- however more slowly. If you are getting a click and then nothing, oil is not your problem.

Use a test light to make certain your sellinoid is working as it should and connections are secure.

Going around your car and improving grounding is always a good idea, but I would look to checking out the starter / flywheel interaction. Worn teeth where the two come together could cause things to jam — tooth to tooth — and the whacking with the hammer could well have dislodged them. If this is the problem, you could be fine for a while or it could jam again at any time. It will of course — once again with a little persuasion ( hammer and wood block), get you rolling again.
I’d pull the starter— inspect the teeth on both starter and flywheel. Inspection is pretty straight forward. Replacing the starter is not too tough, but if you need a flywheel repair— he job gets more complex.

The “whacking” with 2x4 and hammer should tell us something.
Good luck— keep us informed with what you find.
I hope this helps!
Andrew

 

[bulldurham]

Be sure to check that starter mounting bolts are tight. Don't think it would take much of a wiggle to jam it.

 

[SierraNev]

Thanks for all the advice.

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