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Series IV wiring

mikephillips

Donation Time
For anyone using the series IV wiring diagram please note that the one shown is for early IVs. At some point in 65 they wiring changed to the same harness as the series V, with the exception of a generator circuit rather than an alternator. You can tell which on you have by checking the connections to the ignition switch, they are different. For some reason I've never seen this mentioned in the workshop manuals.
 

Alpine Bob

Donation Time
OK Mike,
What diagram should I use since I have an early IV with an Alternator, negitive ground, and a 1725 engine?:confused:
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
Probably the one they have listed for most of the car. And then document the alterations for the alternator if you haven't already.
 

65beam

Donation Time
series 4 wiring

i switched out the wiring harness on my series 4 with a new harness for a series 5 .the only difference i saw was the charging circuit . i used the series 5 alternator with the external regulator .so other than the charging circuit everything shoud be the same . i don't see any difference in the wiring to the switch .
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
OK, I figured it out, While it's functionally the same the IV has a pair of brown/blue wires hooking to the #1 terminal of the ignition while the late IV and V have a pair of bronw only wires. So if you all you're doing os following the diagram, like I was at the time, it isn't the same thing. I didn't take time to look it all over to see they went the same places.
 

howard

Donation Time
I've had problems with the WSM's wiring diagram two ways: My SIV has automatic transmission, and the diagram never addressed the wiring of the backup lights/inhibitor switch, and 2) It's TOO FREAKIN' SMALL to even see! Sometimes, with a microscope, floodlights, and the moon in the proper phase I can guess what the copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy printed diagram was purporting to show, but most times, I'm making a guess.

I did order a Tiger wiring diagram for the dash instruments, and it came in very handy. I believe it was put out by CATS a few years back. It proved to be well worth the money. But it was limited to the interior electrics.

I've seen some advertised online, but probably, at this point, won't buy another diagram unless I'm stuck having some kind of major electrical issues.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
....It's TOO FREAKIN' SMALL to even see! Sometimes, with a microscope, floodlights, and the moon in the proper phase I can guess what the copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy printed diagram was purporting to show, but most times, I'm making a guess.

Here's a very clear one I found on the 'net ages ago... maybe it will help?

AlpineWiringDiagram-SV-color.jpg


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And here's an explanation of Lucas wiring colors I also found (though not 100% accurate WRT Sunbeams)...

British Wiring Colors Explained

Sometimes the English do something that makes so much sense you have to wonder where the idea came from. If you ever had the opportunity to look under the hood or dash of your British car you would have seen, among other thing, lots of wires, the newer the car, the more wires. All these wires are different colors; some are multi-colored, and all for a very good reason.

Sometime before WW II (I've been unable to find out exactly when) the British instituted a wire color coding system for all the cars manufactured in their country. It started out very simply to identify the basic electrical systems and has grown, as the cars became more complex.

A black colored wire indicates a ground circuit wire, the wire connecting an electrical unit to ground, usually the car's metal chassis. A brown wire is HOT or one that always has power and is not fused. These are the big wires that carry battery power to and from the fuse block, voltage regulator and generator. There are sometimes also smaller brown wires that run the wiper motor park circuit.

This is where the extra complexity comes in. Since the brown wires run different circuits it was necessary to differentiate the wires for each. The TRACER is a different colored stripe running the length of the wire to indicate the particular job of that wire. Therefore a brown wire with a yellow tracer is for the generator warning light while brown with a white tracer is for the ammeter.

As a quick note, the colors are abbreviated in the various manuals. Some are obvious like R means red, Y means yellow, G is green. Since black is denoted by B, N was used for brown and U for Blue. So a brown wire with a white tracer (power to the ammeter) would be NW, brown with a light green tracer is NLG (the windscreen wiper park switch).

Blue wires are for the headlights with plain blue being power to the dimmer switch, while the power from the switch is denoted two ways. Blue/red (UR) is for the low beams and blue/white (UW) is for the high beams and the indicator lamp.

The use of tracer colors is especially evident with the white wires. White denotes a circuit that is powered when the ignition is on. A plain white wire runs the fuel pump, ignition relay, and various fusebox connections. White with red (WR) is the power to the starter solenoid, and white with green (WG) is power to the radio. White with black (WB) is power to the ignition coil unless there is a ballast resistor then the wire is white with light green (WLG).

On the early cars with few electrical accessories green was the color for fused power from the ignition for such items as brake lights (GO or GP) and the fuel gauge (GB). When turn signals were added Green was used here also, green/white (GW) for right turns and green/red (GR) for left turns.

As customers demanded more conveniences the wiring grew in complexity. Now, along with green, light green is also used as the base color for various applications like screen washer pumps (LGB) and hazard warning lights; light green with brown (LGN) is the color here since the hazard light system needs an always hot circuit to operate without the key being turned on.

For the next extra color they couldn't use grey since G was already for green, so S for slate was the obvious (?) choice. Slate indicates circuits that are hot when the ignition is off, such as emission control power. Purple is for always hot circuits with fuses such as courtesy lamps (PW) or key buzzers (PG or PK (K for pink).

So, you see, there is a method to the madness. If you know the system you can even sort out a wiring harness that you never saw before, with no wiring diagram, for a car that someone else dismantled 20 years ago!
 

Shawn B

Donation Time
Just starting

Im trying to get everyones ideas on if i should keep my 63 alpine stock or switch to something else i want it to be fun and drive it alot
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
Stock wiring is fine, as long as you don't want to hang a bunch of accessories off it like you modern car may have. It's not designed to do that. If you want to put in a CD player, XM radio, GPS, etc, then that's where you probably should consider an aftermarket harness like Painless. I've got stock wiring in all mine and haven't had problems.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I've got stock wiring in all mine and haven't had problems.

Ditto. Just make sure you use real Lucas fuses and that they are of the proper amp rating. I've found the biggest problem with Lucas systems frying usually comes from U.S. owners putting in U.S. fuses, which are not rated the same as Lucas fuses and tend to blow at a much higher amp rating (rated for circuit vs blow)... and in fact they fail to blow, leading to a scorched harness.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Ditto. Just make sure you use real Lucas fuses and that they are of the proper amp rating. I've found the biggest problem with Lucas systems frying usually comes from U.S. owners putting in U.S. fuses, which are not rated the same as Lucas fuses and tend to blow at a much higher amp rating (rated for circuit vs blow)... and in fact they fail to blow, leading to a scorched harness.
This is something I have never heard before. I've been using US fuses for most of the last 30 years and never had a problem (knock on wood), but that may just mean I've been lucky. I assume Lucas fuses would be hard to find. Can you just use a slightly lower rated fuse? Say 15 amp instead of 20?
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Can you just use a slightly lower rated fuse? Say 15 amp instead of 20?
Not and be accurate, no. American fuses are rated for circuit load - so a "35 amp" U.S. fuse is made for a 35 amp circuit - and if overloaded will blow at a higher amperage. Lucas fuses are rated to blow at the amperage shown - so a "35 amp" fuse will blow as soon as it hits 35 amps... the circuit load for that fuse is much lower. So, use a U.S. fuse and you'll may well burn the harness before the fuse goes.

As far as finding fuses, I haven't had to buy them in years - I have plentiful stock from years ago when I bought out all the parts from a British car parts supplier that was closing shop - but I imagine you can still get them from the major Sunbeam suppliers or certainly from the UK. I also see them on eBay from time to time.
 

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
If any of you are in need of these I have a few left for sale. They're the correct, original 30A Lucas paper fuses so If you're looking for concours this is it. Ain't cheap, but what 40+ year NOS part is? Send me a PM if you're interested.

Happy New Year, Mark ..... volvoguys
 
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