Series II Wiring

[Josh]

Finally re-connecting the wirig on our 1962 Alpine II. The car has none of the options; overdrive, fog lights, under bonnet light, it does have a blower for the heater. Wiring Diagrams that from Haynes and Prospero ( as well as the factory workshop manual) I have raise some questions:

Q 1: With no optional Under Bonnet Light and no Cigar Lighter (I may deal with this later so I can set up reverse polarity for phone charger) there is nothing on terminal #2 of the fuse box. The feed is there from #1 on the ignition switch, but nothing connected.

Q 2: Is there no fuse protected feed for the lights? Should I add a fuse for the lights or should I use #2 (now unused) on the fuse box for the lighting circuit? Should I connect the heater blower through a fused connection? What amp rating for the lights or the blower?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I really want to keep the smoke contained in the wires!

Thanks!

 

[jumpinjan]

I recommend going with negative ground,
Why fuse the headlights? When they burn out, they open the circuit and not short the circuit.
Jan

 

[Josh]

I have always thought that an abraded wire could cause an electrical fire. I have actually had it happen in the past. I prefer to keep the car positive ground.
Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Alpine Addict]

To avoid electrical fires I fit a quick release battery terminal on my cars and disconnect when I am not with the car.

 

[Josh]

Good idea. I would still like to fit a fuse for the lighting cicuit in the car. My guess is that the two 40w headlights and the tailights together will not draw more than 10 Amps. Any thoughts?

 

[jumpinjan]

I have always thought that an abraded wire could cause an electrical fire. I have actually had it happen in the past.

Sounds to me like you still have the original wiring harness with bare (or abraded) wire showing? Automotive wiring is the cheapest wire (Vinyl jacket & bare copper strands, not tinned/silver plated). Well, after 64 years since it was installed, you're way over due for a new wiring harness then.
Don't try to re-use old wiring harnesses. They probably (more likely) have hidden wire corrosion too.
Also to mention, the Series I+II run the wiring harness (including the battery cable) on the undersides of the car. Bad-bad-bad situation!!!
Jan

 

[jumpinjan]

Good idea. I would still like to fit a fuse for the lighting cicuit in the car. My guess is that the two 40w headlights and the tailights together will not draw more than 10 Amps. Any thoughts?

10A x 12vdc = 120watts
Jan

 

[hartmandm]

I think the head lamps circuit is always hot? I wouldn't move that circuit over to the ignition 'run' circuit and add more wattage to that circuit. You could add an inline fuse under the dash connected to the head lamp switch if you want.

 

[Josh]

Thanks for the info. I am testing and inspecting all the parts of the harness I am going to reuse. I have plans to remove any redundant or suspect wires or connections. I hav added a fused connector between the ignition switch and the lighting switch. I also added a fused line to the blower. I am taking my time. I do not want to have to b do this again, particularly st the side of the road.

Best to you and happy motoring!

 

[Josh]

Yes, the headlamp circuit is hot. It is connected from the terminal 1 on the ignition switch, which is also connected to A1 on the control box. I plan to add a fuse before terminal 1 on the panel & map switch. It feeds all the lights. Am I wrong?

 

[hartmandm]

Yes, the headlamp circuit is hot. It is connected from the terminal 1 on the ignition switch, which is also connected to A1 on the control box. I plan to add a fuse before terminal 1 on the panel & map switch. It feeds all the lights. Am I wrong?

Sounds like a good plan. I think it is 16 gauge wiring. I think a 15 amp fuse will be sufficient to blow before the wires melt and can carry the current for all the lights.

Mike

 

[Josh]

Thanks!