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Sam's Car (the Green1) V6 Conversion by DanR

Discussion in 'Modified Alpine' started by DanR, Jun 9, 2014.

  1. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Dan, your photos are useless to me, and I like to think to think I know my way around Alpines. Can't image they mean anything to a newby.

    I don't understand why that is. Locostusa uses what appears to be the same site architecture and hosts beautiful images. I think the option to directly post photos should be removed until meaningful images can be posted.

  2. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Bill, Some times I can get PIC's to upload that look OK from my side of this site.

    Others may seem a bit fuzzy.

    I did not realize you (and perhaps others) can't "Get the picture".

    This is the whole reason I keep pushing for the SITE UP GRADE.

  3. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    In reference to the previous post are these any better?

    I can go to a couple other British Car Forums and not have a problem whatsoever with getting nice clear crisp PIC's for display.

    Even on this (our) site some guys like toyanvil is able some way or other to get beautiful pictures uploaded.

    Maybe some day soon we will get an upgrade....


    p.S. The first PIC is showing the Vintage Heat and A/C being installed years ago when doing the restoration. The dynamat is all up under the dash, on the firewall and in all nooks & cranny's. The next is the inner portion of the door where I stuck it to the outer shin of the door.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
  4. Ratical

    Ratical Donation Time

    1789, my plans was to go back (assembly got in front of this plan) and spray the lizard skin over the dynamat inside also. That was to reach all the crevices I missed or didn't reach. I can only imagine the benefit would be similar to adding layers of dynamat.
  5. Greggers

    Greggers SAOCA Vice President Platinum Level Sponsor

    For one, all these pics came through as 420x315, which is too small. The max for our current site software is 640x480. That little bit makes a big difference when you're looking at pics from the other end.

    Dan, whichever app you use to shrink your photos needs to be set closer to 640x480.

    The new site will allow much larger photos, with both the benefits and drawbacks thereof. Coming soon (theoretically).
  6. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Up date as of Aug 30, 2017 (Sam's Car The Green1)

    Hoping to get the "NEW SITE" Active very soon:D

    Looking forward to being able to POST PIC's "all" can see.....

    As an up date to Sam's Car, the Green1, I have been very busy as usual doing all sorts of things including "Honey do's"......Had to in order to get to go to the Norcross, GA British Car Show September 9th & United XXXVI in VA Sept 22-24:D

    Made the Mod's for the A/C Mock-up. Finished the Tunnel Modifications.

    Just about finished with the Dynamat....one small piece over the "panel" I made for access to the slave & bell crank connection. Hope to get the LizardSkin on today!

    Finalized the EPS wiring and locating the ECM behind the passenger Kick panel.

    A wiring Kit is being made for the EPS which will complete the kit for the Power Steering.

    No messy hydraulic fluid leaks, no pump or hoses, nice, clean, quite, and easy driving, just a touch of an adjustment knob to set the "feel" you want for parking or down the road driving.

    A tentative sell price is $1050.00 which will be:

    1. The modified upper steering column w/telescoping capability (as original)
    2. An EPS motor with warranty; a separate wiring harness
    3. Fittings for installation
    4. Instructions to modify your lower steering column.

    You can use your original components such as horn, turn signals, steering wheel, etc....

    My test car, unlike the earlier Series, is a '67 SV Alpine equipped with fresh air ducts. After much study, trial and error I was finally able to retain the fresh air duct even thought it is very tight. The defroster vent is also left unmolested.

    The Electric Power Steering unit for the Alpine, as I have designed sits the ECM behind the passenger kick panel. The wiring harness will run from the Motor (main power and ground) to the ECM, from the ECM with the power and ground to the Battery box with a main inline fuse, the Controller to (Ign Switch) and Adjustment knob from the ECM to the Dash panel (You select a location).

    A good serviceable "Core" will be required for the upper portion of the steering column.

    To keep the cost as low as possible I will provide instructions for you (or your machine shop) to modify the lower portion of the steering assembly which I refer to as the "outer column and steering box".

    DO NOT DISASSEMBLE the outer column from the steering box unless you like to deal with lots of "small things" like ball bearings etc.... Besides it is not required for the conversion!

    If you are in the process of restoring your Alpine, doing engine, or radiator work, the removal of the steering column and box is fairly simple and can be changed out easily for modifying to the EPS.

    While the steering box is out of the car would be a good time to replace the rubber O ring that seals the lubricant.

    If you have questions, comments, or suggestions please do so,

    Last edited: Aug 30, 2017
  7. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Final Heat and insulation done!

    Yep! I finally finished the dynamat about 13 of the big sheets and 3 1/2 gallons of lizardskin. Sure should be quite and cool:)

    Finalized the power steering.

    Completed all mod's for the Heat and A/C unit.

    Started on installing the wiring harness:eek: Not my thing!

    Trying to determine the best location for the fuse panel. Probably go like I did in the Commodore Blue.

    Stay tuned (Sam& Greggers).

  8. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Can't believe it has been 4 years since I last posted here about the Green1..... There has been lots of work done and now the body work is continuing with my new friend Lou K.

    With plans to hand sand and prime for painting very soon.

    Greggers offered to re-wire, so I hauled it over to GA for his attention. That was accomplished and I made a return trip to pick up and haul back to SC. Made use of the time and distance to drop off 25 pieces including the two bumpers for re-chroming at the Dallas Plating near Greggers.

    Hard to find good quality chrome finishers. Will let you know how my stuff turn out..... 14 in wheels from Tiger on TheGreen1     20210311_163749.jpg TheGreen1's new 2.8 V6 Engine     20200502_170022.jpg
  9. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Ever since I purchased the Green1 my plan was to get it on my rotisserie. Haven't been able until the past few weeks due to it being dedicated to the 0766 GT BW35 Alpine I have saved from the scrap yard.

    My suspicions (rust in the X-frame) are confirmed now that I have opened up some sheet metal that was only tacked on in a few places covering up a badly rusted out area of the X-Frame.

    I have taken a lot of pictures of the undercarriage and have also made certain what areas are good and what is bad.

    Thankfully for the most part the underside is still a solid Alpine.

    For you Owners of an Alpine and/or the Tiger it will behoove you to take a close look at some of these pictures and either learn from them or experience a rusty vehicle in your future. I will also attempt to show you the areas most susceptible to becoming rusty in your beloved Sunbeam.

    This will be my third Sunbeam Alpine to undergo a complete restoration utilizing my rotisserie without which I could not have accomplished the task easily, if at all.

    Here are a few PICs of the X-frame being repaired. I cut a-way the very bottom area of the front portion of the X-frame in order to get inside. Believe it or not what is left of the inside was in good to great condition.


    The other underside areas were in good condition and are notated as "SOLID" by the white chalk "S" in the picture.

    I have included two PICs of an X-frame I removed from another Alpine that I was saving for just this type of needed repairs. It will make an excellent replacement for the rusty one. I am heading to Carolina Chem-Strip tomorrow so they can work their magic on removing any surface rust, foreign matter and grease/paint.

    60439FF6-22C7-4BC1-A737-33F410E34C2E.jpeg 7F9B7870-9A8D-424D-8E4E-9853C6A92DD0.jpeg

    The Chem-Dip process is utilized by me on about all of the Alpine pieces I work with, providing excellent results, the metal free of rust, perfect for repairs. Next step will be to apply rust preventive coatings POR15 on the "inside" of the frame. Then comes the welding and finishing touches to the underside.

    More to come !

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
  10. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Before placing the Green1 on the rotisserie I jacked it up in several places to test any flexing there might be in the frame. None was noticed on the Driver's side (LH ) but a slight give was detected on the passenger (RH Side), enough to cause the door to seize at the B Post. The normal clearance between the door edge and the B Post sprung back when the pressure from the jack was removed.

    Next, step was to come up with a way to create a "Fixed" position between the door edge and the B Post.

    Here are a few PIC's of the braces I am using to hold the Alpine body rigid on the rotisserie while making repairs. One inch square tubing; lengths of 3/4" threaded rod with four nuts for each rod. Welded a nut into each end of the tubing. Adjustments can be made as necessary. Very simple and easy fabrication IMO.

    Attached Files:

  11. Alpine 1789

    Alpine 1789 SAOCA President Diamond Level Sponsor

    That is a very nice solution! I like the adjustability factor.
  12. sunalp

    sunalp Platinum Level Sponsor

    I like the brackets you fabricated!
  13. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    The "Mount Brackets" that bolt to the A and B posts were the hardest to fabricate. I was in a hurry and spent a lot of time in which I would have normally made a thin cardboard pattern and had my Draftsman Buddy laser cut for me.

    The 1" Square tubing was easiest to measure and cut along with the 3/4" threaded rod. I had a lot of that and a bucket of nuts just awaiting for me to find a use for them.

    A close look at the braces will tell a lot. Welded inside of the tubing a nut held in place by the threaded rod. Added a nut to keep the rod from turning, added another nut to the other end, stuck the rod through a hole in the bracket and added the last nut to secure in place after determining the correct position for alignment..... Simple as that:)

    In the picture I have included in fine print some explanations of where and how I put this contraption together. The Green1 with rigid braces        20210810_185855.jpg
  14. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Good job. A big thumbs up.

  15. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Here are a few more PIC's of TheGreen1

    How about a guess ? Which paint ? Emerald Green & a bit of gold metal flake OR Grabber Blue ??

    Anyone ?

    Attached Files:

  16. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    It just does not seem right that the Green1 would suddenly be Blue.
  17. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Sam wanted it Green Greg says Grabber Blue:)
  18. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Well if Greg is going to buy the car, Grabber Blue is my choice.
  19. Rsgwynn1

    Rsgwynn1 Silver Level Sponsor

    Ol' Dan, I don't check in here often, but I'm glad to hear you're forging ahead with Green1. I learned a lot about rust from your comments, and I probably wouldn't have bought the car if I knew what I've learned since. I was able to carefully check my 1974 MGB for telltale signs before I bought it. It'll never run like a V6 Alpine, but I've been happy with it, even acquiring a hardtop not long back. I think I have the only LBC in Beaumont; at least, I've never seen another one. Best wishes from

  20. Warren

    Warren Bronze Level Sponsor

    Something else other than Forest Green or a shade of BRG.

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