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Restoring HB9116754 Lemans

I guess that's a no for the foam. I have to say, welding a line like that in such a critically stressed part of the suspension seems like something I wouldn't want to rely on.

Edit.... oh dang it. That was yesterday. :)
 
But very rewarding once redone properly. It will hold a lifetime now- provided it's regularly greased...
 
What? Are you saying there was a door over the opening????!!!!
Yes, the very first thing I did was to remove the rear hatch with glass and store it away. That was like 25 years ago now.
Jan
 
Oh man, this tear-down was disgusting with mouse nests & dust in the headliner...Yuck!
The headliner just fell apart, so there was no way to save it as a pattern to make a new one. However, another Lemans that Ian & I scraped had a decent headliner and a new one was made from the patterns some years ago.
Jan
lemans_top_cleanup_1.jpg
 
I can't remember if I mentioned this, but this Lemans is 1-of-2 that was delivered to Lewis Auto Sales here in Dayton. It is #39 Carnival Red, the other was #53 Wedgewood Blue and Eric Gibeaut has it, or had it.
At one time ago, Ian had both of these Lemans (as well as 4 other Harringtons) in the TippCity Ohio "Batcave".
Jan
 
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I decided to install the headliner in the roof first before attaching the roof to the body. The top & body will be refinished before mating them together. I'll mask off the headliner and then bond it to the metal body. Then do the final refinishing & paint.
I'm thinking that's what Harrington might have done to expedite Lemans production because they started with a finished S-II Alpine.
Jan
 
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I got most of the rusted screws out of the trim and the trim is good shape. Next, I decided to cut the rusted mounting screws to the hatch hinges as good insurance in the future if I have to remove a hinge. There's strong steel bar that the hinges bolt to, and I got it out to drill out the rusted screws.
Jan
hinge_bar.jpg
 
The rusted 1/4-28 screws are out of the hinge support bar. Some of the threads were bad so as good insurance, I welded nuts behind the bar to add more thread. Next thing is to fiberglass the bar back in.
Jan
hatch_hinge_rail.jpg
 
The 1/4" thick steel bar that secures the hatch hinges is back in. I'm using the EverCoat "Vette Panel Adhesive/filler" to fill in the gaps and bond it in. However, one can't bond panels together in 3-5 mins which is what they say is the working time for the EverCoat..LoL. I'll be using the SEM 39747 panel adhesive & #10 screws to bond the top to the body. It has a 4hr set time which is about right.
Jan
hatch_mountingbar copy.jpg
 
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I'm back on the Harrington round-back seats (MicroCell CONTOUR-6 seats). Just a rough contouring of the foam cushions so far.
I need to get the foam shaped & glued in before sewing the seat covers so I know how to get the right fit.
Jan
microcell-6_seats.jpg
 
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jumpinjan said:
I'm back on the Harrington round-back seats (MicroCell CONTOUR-6 seats). Just a rough contouring of the foam cushions so far.
I need to get the foam shaped & glued in before sewing the seat covers so I know how to get the right fit.
Jan
View attachment 37984
Click to expand...
Jan, do you lay a layer of fabric or similar amd glue down over the thigh squab to ensure the layered tapered shape os held together at their think taper edge?
 
I don't understand the question, but I will use a layer of 3/16" or 1/4" Landau close cell foam to smooth out the shaped foam if that's what you are asking?
Jan
 
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