Removing the rear view mirror

[Alpine 1789]

I have an old, curved glass mirror from a SII that I am thinking about putting into service on one of my cars. I know its not correct, but I like the view the curved glass provides. The chrome on the arm is in very good shape, but the mirror itself needs to be re-silvered. How do I get the mirror out without damaging it?

Thanks.

 

[jack Bacon]

Removing the Rearview Mirror

At the last Invasion I remember someone saying that one could soak the mirror in mineral oil but I have never tried it

Regards,

Jack

 

[howard]

I've had the opportunity of doing this twice. I used mineral spirits (non-odor paint thinner works, too). Just let it soak under the glass for a few hours... I wouldn't submerge the whole thing, just drop some so it saturates the area under the glass. Then get something REAL thin like an old butterknife and gradually slide it under the glass, working it real slow, until you can free it from the plastic frame.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks guys. That makes perfect sense. I'll give it a try.

 

[Series3Scott]

Paul Scofield - didn't you discover some trick to this when you did yours?

 

[Ken Ellis]

Could you get a length of monofilament fishing line behind it, and 'saw' it side to side to break the bond?

Ken

 

[Alpine 1789]

I just thought I'd update this post, since I popped the mirror out over the weekend. I put some mineral spirits into a small squeeze bottle and dripped it all around the edges multiple times. I also put some in from the back by dripping it around the pivot ball. Truthfully, I am not sure any of that was really necessary with the older style (small metal frame, curved glass) mirror. But I heard once that the later (i.e., SV) mirrors were attached with double stick tape, so that would certainly be the way to go with those.

The mineral spirits certainly didn't hurt, but the key for me was trying to figure out what to use to gently pry the mirror out. It looked like a razor blade would be perfect, but that seemed very likely to chip the mirror. Then I remembered the tool that had come with the replacement battery for my iPod (http://www.ipodjuice.com/AB4F1D8928...30B707A4ABB.asp&nm=bmTOOLINSTR3G&spath=&path=). It was perfect. I was able to gently edge it into the frame along the lower edge and very gently pry upwards. I had the best ‘grip’ there, but also worked around a bit on all four sides. Then, back to the lower edge and the mirror just popped out! I can now see that it was glued along the edge to the frame. The glue that is left on the frame seems pretty hard, so I don’t know if the mineral spirits had any effect or not.

The mirror is now off to be resilvered. The next tricky step is deciding if I should remove the arm from the housing or not. The chrome on the arm is in surprisingly good shape. A few pits here and there, but not bad and certainly better than the one I am using now. However, the housing is pretty rusty and I could do a much better job cleaning it up and repainting it without the arm there. However, removing it would require drilling out the two rivets and it has been a long time since I've done any riveting other than Pop Rivets. I am not even sure how readily available such rivets are. Does anyone know?

 

[P. Scofield]

Paul Scofield - didn't you discover some trick to this when you did yours?

Glad to see you listen Scott!!

Yes, I used Lacquer Thinner and soaked it all night. You WILL lose the silver but I was planning on sending mine out to be re-silvered anyway. Use the black sticky strips they use to put your windshield in you car to put it back.

 

[P. Scofield]

I am not even sure how readily available such rivets are. Does anyone know?

YES, they are simple tube rivet you can install yourself. Found mine at the local True Value in the small drawers. You will need to touch them up with a dab of black paint when done. Let me know if you can't find then and I'll send you a couple.

Paul

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks Paul. I'll do a little digging this weekend, see what I can find and report back.

 

[howard]

Use the black sticky strips they use to put your windshield in you car to put it back.

Now THIS is interesting, since I've been wondering how to mount the mirror back. I let my glass shop glue my first mirror back into the frame, but I won't make that mistake again, These black sticky strips Paul describes: is there a brand/technical term, or is it just some sort of industrial grade two-sided tape?

 

[P. Scofield]

The down and dirty term is:

3M Strip-Calk
Part No. 051135-08578 (black)

Problem is, it comes in a box in 1 foot lengths, 20 yards total!! I've had this same box for about 15 years!

Solution:
* Go to your local windshield place and ask for a foot of it. They may not even charge you.
* Send me your address and $2 pay-pal and I'll send you a few strips
* Ask SS to start carrying it so they can make more money from us

 

[65sunbeam]

Hi Jim
Please let us know who is re-silvering your mirror and if you are happy with the results! Thanks, Eric

 

[Alpine 1789]

Will do. There is only one place left in St. Louis who does it. They've been in business since 1947 and it didn't looked like they'd cleaned or swept the floor since then. I doubt they do much of a mail order business, but will check with them when I pick up the mirror. It will cost $35 and should be ready in a few days.

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Mine did not work!

Will do. There is only one place left in St. Louis who does it. They've been in business since 1947 and it didn't looked like they'd cleaned or swept the floor since then. I doubt they do much of a mail order business, but will check with them when I pick up the mirror. It will cost $35 and should be ready in a few days.

I did the re-sliver to my original mirror but it was too scratched and turned out crappy. The cost was the same but shipped it to someplace in Kansas for the work. Keep up posted how well yours comes out after re-slivering?

Donna

 

[Alpine 1789]

Happy to. I thought about sending it out, but decided to gamble on the local guy. He did inspect the mirror before 'accepting' it and appeared to be looking for scratches. Interestingly, I could tell he was about to suggest simply cutting a new piece when he first looked at it, then he saw the curve (it is a SII mirror) and stopped himself. I may bring in a blank flat one with me when I pick it up, just to see how much he'd charge to make one up.

 

[howard]

For a flat one just trace the area of the mirror and have a glass shop cut it. It's bound to be cheaper and faster.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Hi Jim
Please let us know who is re-silvering your mirror and if you are happy with the results! Thanks, Eric

I picked up the mirror today and its "OK". Not perfect, I am afraid. The body of the mirror looks great, but there is some silvering missing around the edges. I've attached two photos showing the work. The guy told me that it was the best that could be done with the glass. That is certainly possible. It looks like the glass was rough around the edges where the silver is missing. I can't feel any roughness, but maybe I could have before I took it in. The store owner cleaned it up a bit by beveling the edge of glass where it was rough; I can't help but think that he should have done that before he began.

But, it looks pretty damn good for a 50 year old mirror and I am anxious to give it a try in my SV. (No one asked, but I think it will give me a better view through the roll bar than the mirror that is there now.) First though, I need to clean up the case.

BTW: even if it was perfect, it would have been difficult for anyone else to use them. They don't do mail order work.

 

[jmthehermit]

Compared to the mirror in the NOS unit I have, it looks very good. It seems the adhesive they used to glue the mirror in place actually eats into the silver coating over time. This mirror sat in its original package for 30+ years, never mounted in a car, not exposed to sunlight, in its paper bag and box. Jeff

 

[howard]

This is the guy I used- also located in Missouri.

http://www.webersfurniture.com/

He did a fine job on my mirror. I have yet to mount it into the frame, as I noticed the same thing about the adhesives eating into the silvering. I'm still thinking it through. (And, in my case, that can take an AWFUL LOT of time!) I may take Paul up on his generous offer and use some of the 3M caulk strip.