Rear Disc Brakes for a Sunbeam Alpine! Tiger?

[Mikeflbmer]

I've read what I could find on rear disc for a Sunbeam Alpine/Tiger. Lots of suggestions! It appears most are for a modified rear axle not a stock as coming on your Sunbeam.

On this site you will find there are lots of great ideas put forth for assisting with about anything you can imagine. In this case, much has already been provided to me in the form of advice and suggestions most of the ideas have been adopted. My good friend Bill Blue has been very generous doing machine work and giving me the 1st set of 1992 Saturn SC rear calipers and rotors he had used on his Alpine with the 8" FORD rear. They are fairly plentiful and economically reasonable to obtain. Jim Nichols and Barry Knight are always there when help is needed providing that keen expert knowledge I lack. Many thanks Guys!!

Owning several Sunbeam Alpines and being fairly familiar with their braking systems proves to me there is some improvement that can/could be accomplished to make it better. In this case I have taken the effort to design rear brake mounts/brackets that will easily adopt to the Alpine & Tiger rear axle whereby disc calipers can be added for better stopping power. The Saturn are designed with an E-Brake application similar to the Sunbeam.

The Mount Brackets my Draftsman/Engineer drafted up and laser cut are interchangeable (right of left). The E-Brake Lever is designed specific Right or Left and replace the Saturn lever.

Pictures are worth more than I can adequately describe, so here are some PICs' (E-mailing tiger2dan at gmail dot com ). PIC on the top right is the stock Saturn E brake lever that needs to be replaced by my "Lever"

I have a similar set up on my tiger from a (dan richardson kit) the problem I am experienceing is brakes locking on after a short two block trip.......I am using a dual MC from a sunbeam arrow and no proportioning valve.....I have replaced mc and rubber hoses with no relief....all four brakes lock up and pedal has no play after a 2 block drive......any suggestion's? what MC are you using?

 

[260Alpine]

Mike, sounds like the pushrod is a little too long and not enough freeplay between master and pedal.

 

[Jay Laifman]

And definitely a possibility if not using the stock MC, which had a spacer between the MC and the firewall, to pull the MC away from the pushrod.

 

[belmateo]

I have a similar set up on my tiger from a (dan richardson kit) the problem I am experienceing is brakes locking on after a short two block trip.......I am using a dual MC from a sunbeam arrow and no proportioning valve.....I have replaced mc and rubber hoses with no relief....all four brakes lock up and pedal has no play after a 2 block drive......any suggestion's? what MC are you using?

Here's why a faulty master cylinder can cause sticking brakes:

• Piston Stuck:
  If the piston inside the master cylinder becomes damaged or stuck, it may not retract properly when the brake pedal is released, causing the brakes to remain engaged.
  

• Fluid Return Blocked:
  A blocked fluid return port in the master cylinder can prevent the fluid from flowing back into the reservoir, preventing the brakes from releasing.
  
  
• Adjustable Rod Issues:
  On some vehicles, the rod connecting the master cylinder to the brake pedal can be adjustable. If the rod is too long, it may not allow the master cylinder piston to clear the return port, causing the brakes to stick.
  
  
• Fluid Contamination:
  Contaminated brake fluid can swell the seals in the master cylinder, preventing the piston from retracting properly.
  
  
• Booster Issues:
  In some cases, a faulty brake booster can also cause the master cylinder to not release properly, leading to sticking brakes.