Potential Buyer of a '66 Alpine

[Lake Marina]

Hello - Im new to this forum and joined to hopefully collect some insight before a potential buy of a '66 Alpine.
The car may be the one that I owned from '75 to '89 (attached photo). I grew up tinkering with vintage (maybe not vintage then) cars as my dad had 2 MG's, an Alfa, a '65 Alpine and I bought the '66 from my sister. The car in question is stored under roof and ran when it was parked 2 years ago (i know that may not mean much). Im a retired machinist and have workshop (no lathe or mill) and looking for a project car and Im afraid if I go look at it and it is that one I owned I'd buy it.
With that said and assuming it may not all be there, what are the top 5 most difficult parts to obtain for this vehicle?
Any other suggestions or comments are welcome.
Thanks!
LM

 

[DanR]

Windshields probably hardest, but there are produced at various times.

Used ones are available more frequently.

 

[65sunbeam]

A rust free Sunbeam body is the hardest thing to find. If full of old newspapers, tin foil and lots of bondo walk away!
To add to Dan's list

Rust free factory hardtop with rear window stainless trim still in place
Factory overdrive that works
Window regulators
Uncracked steering wheels and steering wheel hubs
Welcome and look that Alpine over closely. There is lots of help available here!

 

[Lake Marina]

Thanks for the responses.
@DanR - I hope the windshield is intact as I an see where that could be a problem.
@65sunbeam - If it is my old one I know it will have some bondo as I did some minor dent repair but I dont recall if there was rust. Sounds like there are no repro sheet metal parts available (rocker or floor panels?).
I'll know pretty quickly if it is/was mine from some of the poor mans resto work I did circa 1980! Seems I recall a toggle switch on the dash for an electric overdrive though I didn't know they all had that or if it was an option.
Assuming I get out to take a look I'll try and post some photos.
Any ideas on the value in a non-running buit not horrible shape?
I recently revived my '78 Triumph Bonneville and would have struggled doing so without a good forum so its nice to know this one exists!
Thanks again.

 

[DanR]

There are various sheet metal panels available. Used windshields are available that are decent drivers...

Take pICs or at least examine under the Alpine closely expecially around the X frame and the rear springs aattacht toward the front....

 

[alpine_64]

Thanks for the responses.
@DanR - I hope the windshield is intact as I an see where that could be a problem.
@65sunbeam - If it is my old one I know it will have some bondo as I did some minor dent repair but I dont recall if there was rust. Sounds like there are no repro sheet metal parts available (rocker or floor panels?).
I'll know pretty quickly if it is/was mine from some of the poor mans resto work I did circa 1980! Seems I recall a toggle switch on the dash for an electric overdrive though I didn't know they all had that or if it was an option.
Assuming I get out to take a look I'll try and post some photos.
Any ideas on the value in a non-running buit not horrible shape?
I recently revived my '78 Triumph Bonneville and would have struggled doing so without a good forum so its nice to know this one exists!
Thanks again.

There are good and bad quality repair panels available.. prices vary.

Overdrive is activated via self centering swicth on a column stalk opposite side to the indicators. If yours was on the dash it's a likely mod after a swicth failed.

The body is the big issue with an alpine. For the late cars most interior trim, mechanical and chrome bits are available repro or can be sourced without to much trouble .. just requires money... However bodywork if you aren't doing it will quickly eat up cash ...

 

[Scotty]

Since all the good stuff's been already mentioned:

* The chrome strips on the side lids of the foldable storage for the soft top.
* Center plug for the horn ring. Folks have them in varying conditions. but I don't know of anyone who remakes them. If someone does, please correct me.
* Turn signal switch internals. They're out there but they're expensive and you'd have to hunt bigtime unless you hit the timing right.
* Sunvisors and especially the brackets. If you hunt you can find, but they're expensive.
* Not the least, but patience working on or dealing with the car. If you want it to be totally right, you have to have it. This car will test the hell out of you. But it does reward you for it! You sound like you've been there so this shouldn't be an issue for you .

Good luck!

 

[Acollin]

I would also add that for someone just renewing their understanding of these cars, one needs to know the differences in the series and that not all Sunbeam parts go on all sunbeam cars. The changes Rootes made from series to series makes buying spares / replacement parts an adventure at times If you are not careful or buying from a respectable source.

an aside: it is less of a challenge to buy rust free cars/projects or Alpines with little to no rust on the west coast. There are plenty of rusty ones out here, but even the wet climate in the Pacific Northwest can be pretty easy on sheet metal.

 

[alpine_64]

Since all the good stuff's been already mentioned:

* The chrome strips on the side lids of the foldable storage for the soft top.

Won't be an issue for SV

 

[Tim R]

Lake Marina,
Almost anything can be restored but if it is seriously rusty it will cost you, either n time or money. I would recommend that you subscribe to The Sunbeam Alpine Channel on YouTube (which we run from the UK) as there are over 130 videos there which detail all of the usual jobs that you are likely to need to do on an Alpine. It is intended to be a video workshop manual.
Tim R

 

[Scotty]

Won't be an issue for SV

LOL! True!

You know, I knee-jerked responded without thinking about it just due to my own personal experience:

My first Alpine was a V, bought in 02, and someone had somehow installed lids on it. I didn’t realize it wasn’t correct until long after I sold the car. It was bizzare and it left me wanting a car with lids so I got a IV now .

 

[alpine_64]

LOL! True!

You know, I knee-jerked responded without thinking about it just due to my own personal experience:

My first Alpine was a V, bought in 02, and someone had somehow installed lids on it. I didn’t realize it wasn’t correct until long after I sold the car. It was bizzare and it left me wanting a car with lids so I got a IV now .

The metal covers are much cleaner and nicer looking and finish the body lines nicely when top is down .. and much nicer inside when it's up or hardtop on...
But.... They get scratched...can creak . Make folding the top a PITA.... And if stuff is loaded on the rear parcel shelf can't be used....

 

[Scotty]

The metal covers are much cleaner and nicer looking and finish the body lines nicely when top is down .. and much nicer inside when it's up or hardtop on...
But.... They get scratched...can creak . Make folding the top a PITA.... And if stuff is loaded on the rear parcel shelf can't be used....

Preach brother, preach!

Tim R has a video on the lids which is really helpful with making the lids behave. Absolutely transformed mine.

I love them to death, but would get really annoyed with them for all the reasons you stated, and more. They are quite possibly the easiest things in the world to bend and like you mentioned, if you look at them the wrong way they get scratch, no matter how much prep work or type of paint you use.

The rubber and metal bumpers make a huge difference and, surprise surprise, I was missing the middle chrome bumpers and didn’t even know they existed before I saw his video.

Tim, you do the Sunbeam World a great service with your videos and I love you dearly for it.

 

[Tim R]

Scotty,
I think that this is the video you mean, (it's always good to be loved, especially when you are loved dearly ).
Tim R

 

[alpine_64]

Scotty,
I think that this is the video you mean, (it's always good to be loved, especially when you are loved dearly ).
Tim R

Tim,

The video acataully covers S3/IV and MKI Tiger

The series I/II metal covers are actually different to the later cars. They have different pivots for the rear panel and the side covers are also located differently at the B pillar.

Some of the information is applicable but the early covers do require some different adjustments.

 

[DanR]

And the hinges are very different. I had some fabricated that are near "exact" duplicates for sale.

 

[Warren]

Most took off the lids or bins or whatever you want to call the metal soft top covers. But they do offer some tid bit of noise abatement from the boot area of the car as well.
Depending on the time spent on rust repair in the past or lack thereof, you are often left with. Buy the best body that you can.

 

[Acollin]

I am sure this question has been asked, but I cannot find the answer.
Is it difficult( /possible without serious slicing and dicing) to fit the metal soft top covers to a series V?
thanks

 

[Mike O'D]

Those covers are one of the features I really like about the early cars. They have downsides as mentioned, but you can't beat the looks. People took the covers off???? Wow, would that look terrible and un-finished inside.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

I am sure this question has been asked, but I cannot find the answer.
Is it difficult( /possible without serious slicing and dicing) to fit the metal soft top covers to a series V?
thanks

I did that conversion to my SV as the back shelf panel was missing. Quite a bit of work though ... lots of fitting and re fitting to get things right but very doable and rewarding when completed and looks so much cleaner then the vinyl coverings.