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Pertronix Ignitor not tripping coil (no spark)

Alpine project

Alpine project

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Situation: No fire from the coil to distributor cap (or plugs) – coil does not appear to be triggering

Ignitor model: LU-142AP12 (211022)

Car: 1964 Sunbeam Alpine 4 cylinder – 12-volt positive ground

Installation: According to Pertronix positive ground instructions. Ignitor black/white wire to 12-volt switched source, Ignitor black wire to coil negative post, coil positive post to ground (positive battery)

Coils: checked voltage of 2 (new in box) coils (Accel high voltage and Edelbrock high voltage coils), both check to 1.4-6 resistance from + to – posts, 9+K resistance from + post to coil wire

Ignitor readings: 0 to 8 volts max as rotor (magnetic sleeve) is rotated (not getting to battery voltage as the test says it should).

Ignitor Unit Test Set-up:
  • Connect the Ignitor plate to the battery positive terminal.
  • Connect the black Ignitor wire to the battery negative terminal.
  • Attach the black lead from the voltmeter to the Ignitor black/white wire.
  • Attach the red lead from the voltmeter to the Ignitor black wire.
  • Rotate the magnet sleeve in front of the Ignitor Module; the meter should fluctuate between battery voltage and 0 volts.
QUESTIONS:
  • Do these results indicate that the Ignitor unit is bad?
  • Can you see any other issues that might lead to not triggering the coil?
 
When I googled Pertronix positive ground, AI response was, but who knows if it’s correct.
AI Overview

A Pertronix electronic ignition system designed for a positive ground system is a specific electronic conversion kit that replaces points and condenser in a positive-ground distributor to provide a more stable and accurate spark. These systems require precise wiring, with the igniter's black wire going to the ignition switch, the black and white wire to the coil's negative terminal, and a separate 20-gauge wire connecting the coil's positive terminal to the vehicle's chassis. The kit must match the vehicle's voltage, with different kits available for both 6-volt and 12-volt positive ground vehicles.
 
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Interesting - I have everything in that statement except maybe the 20-guage wire to the ground. I'll check that. The Ignitor package I ordered says "Ignitor Lucas 4 (cyl) 12v Pos Gnd" so I'm pretty sure I have the right kit. Thanks for the reply and info from your search.

It's a new install.
 
Also found this.

It, like the AI, says the black wire goes the the switch. Opposite of what you say you have.

You said: Installation: According to Pertronix positive ground instructions. Ignitor black/white wire to 12-volt switched source, Ignitor black wire to coil negative post, coil positive post to ground.

Probably worth a call to Pertronix.
 
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I searched for what you said you ordered and the install instructions state the same.

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS


NOTE: A BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTOR WIRE MAY OR MAY NOT BE
INCLUDED IN THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT.


Remove the ignition switch wire from the negative coil terminal. Connect the black Ignitor wire directly to the ignition switch wire.

Connect the Ignitor black/white wire to negative (-) side of the ignition coil.

Connect an insulated, AWG 20 copper stranded wire from the positive coil terminal to the positive battery or chassis.

The black/white Ignitor wire and the AWG 20 copper wire should be the only wires connected to the coil.

Make sure all wires are connected correctly, and reconnect battery.


The engine can now be started. Let the engine run for a few minutes and then set the


timing in the conventional manner.
 
More info to add - I had the engine running and trying to get the timing correct. After a few starts, I lost spark. So I know the set-up was working, just trying to figure out what changed to lose the spark.

I have tried a new coil although the other coil read correct resistance on my multimeter. The test of the ignitor unit showed it dropping voltage to zero as I rotated the magnet sleeve, but the high voltage was only 8-volts where the test write up said I should be getting "battery" voltage or 12-volts.
I wondering if I fried the Ignitor unit.
 
MikeH said:
I searched for what you said you ordered and the install instructions state the same.

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS


NOTE: A BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTOR WIRE MAY OR MAY NOT BE
INCLUDED IN THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT.


Remove the ignition switch wire from the negative coil terminal. Connect the black Ignitor wire directly to the ignition switch wire.

Connect the Ignitor black/white wire to negative (-) side of the ignition coil.

Connect an insulated, AWG 20 copper stranded wire from the positive coil terminal to the positive battery or chassis.

The black/white Ignitor wire and the AWG 20 copper wire should be the only wires connected to the coil.

Make sure all wires are connected correctly, and reconnect battery.


The engine can now be started. Let the engine run for a few minutes and then set the


timing in the conventional manner.
Click to expand...
I think I have a smaller guage wire from the ground to the positive post of the coil. Do you think the small wire is the problem, that it isn't conducting enough juice to the + post? My multimeter shows the + post of the coil was getting 12-volts. The wire wasn't hot either.
 
My point was that based on what you posted you might have wired it backwards. From what I’ve found, this would fry the igniter. I’d call Pertronix.
 
Yes, the ignitor unit was bad. I finally got a good test that showed a drop from 12 volts to 4, which isn't enough to trigger the coil. I got a new unit, and it's working fine.
I might have (probably) destoryed the unit when I used a 1.4 ohm coil instead of a 3 ohm coil that Pertronix recommends.
 
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