Oil pump drive gear/shaft

[jdoclogan]

Working on excellent (checked end play and rotating clearances) 1725 oil pumps I have for two 1592 engine builds (#41 Sebring and Harrington Le Mans).
I noted different lengths in the drive gear to distributor slot on these 1725 oil pumps. Comments appreciated.


Also, what is the technique for getting the press pins out of the gear/distributor slotted component attached to the oil pump shaft?

In addition, I'm working on the adaptation of the 1592 small supply tubing connection to block to a large 1725 tubing to block. Again comments appreciated.

 

[jumpinjan]

Jerry, I put the 1600 block on a Bridgeport mill and precisely drill out & tapped new threads. I didn't like to cut up the supply tubes and braze them together. Other guys have done that, but if you have access to a milling machine, I feel that is the best course.
You will need to add more sheet metal in the oil pan to close it up. That is the windage trap or baffle in the sump.
I find I can knock the pins out with a drift & hammer.
Jan

 

[jumpinjan]

Again, I hate to see things "cobbled" together like brazing the tubes together for a quick repair
Jan

 

[jdoclogan]

Jan we are thinking alike. Since the blocks haven't been assembled yet I will ask my machinist to Tap in new threads. I need to process "You will need to add more sheet metal in the oil pan to close it up. That is the windage trap or baffle in the sump." I'm not exactly visualizing what the words are expressing.

You are better at drifting those pins out than I am. I tried it and was failing miserably. I was thinking a bit of freeze/heat process.

What about the different length shafts for the drive gear/distributor slot components on the oil pumps?

 

[husky drvr]

I noted different lengths in the drive gear to distributor slot on these 1725 oil pumps.

How many drive teeth are on your gears - 11 or 12? If the long gear has twelve teeth then it's needed to drive the mechanical tachometer drive. 1725 pumps use 11 drive teeth. Be aware cam and oil pump gear MUST have the same number of teeth in the assembled engine.

The sheet metal is because the pick on the 1600 pump is straight from the bottom of the gears. The 1725 pickup is extended out the side of the housing and interferes with the 1600 pan's baffles.

Hope this helps,

 

[jumpinjan]

Jerry, I can send you some pictures of my oil pan to give you an idea what to do.
The different oil pump, shaft lengths is something I'm not familiar with. I guess if the 1600 bevel gear will fit home, it shouldn't make any difference?
Jan

 

[alpine_64]

Jerry iirc when i put a 1725 pump on my 3 main motor the 1725 pump gear was shorter than the 3 main where the distributor sat but still made enough mesh.... If you went the other way the distributor would need a spacer at tbe base to seat.
We swicthed the drive gear out off the pump for the 3 maim so that i didnt have to swap cams

 

[alpine_64]

I used to have photos of all this and the sump baffle and oil pickup mods on the old fourm linked to my old website album... Sadly all loat to the ether....