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Oil filter stuck

Durhamguy

Gold Level Sponsor
The picture should explain my embarrassing problem. The oil filter is stuck on hard. Any ideas on how to remove the base plate? Tried a chisel initially but not moving.

I had thought of removing the 4 bolts from the housing thinking it just lifts off. But I think that takes me down a rabbit hole I don't want to go down, disconnecting other things.

Before I destroyed it, I used every wrench device I could think of. Band wrench, adjustable filter pipe wrench, heavy duty steel cap, adjustable cap, screwdriver through it. Wouldn't budge. Used penetrating oil around the base. Counterclock wise turn.

I suspect I tighten it too much putting it on a year ago. Plus doesn't run much and sat all winter. Though never had a problem replacing it before.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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If the chisel did not free it, there is only a small chance a pin tool would work. Maybe a drift/punch rather than a chisel with some heat. I believe that metal is pretty soft.
Is it cross threaded? Didn’t oil up the gasket/ seal? I think I see your chisel marks. Given what you’ve tried, I would consider cutting / chiseling it off.
If you did not use a proper sized oil filter, the contact could be binding metal to metal ( I did this on a riding lawn mower once ) . i was able to break the filter away from the threads without damaging them.
Good luck and next time think hand tighten.
 
Would try to weld on a cross bar. A few spot welds should do. Make sure to cover the holes during that operation. Then give a few blows with a hammer. Should work...
 
I suggest to remove the filter base w/4-bolts to get more room & leverage on the bench. Then wash the base and install a new gasket.
Oil the rubber seal and hand tighten.
Jan
 
Thanks for all your input, appreciated. I did oil the gasket before it went on, just too tightly put on. The filter I used is what the PO had on it when I bought the car and he was a mechanic. I used a Carquest R85085.

Jan, if I take the housing off removing the 4 bolts what are the implications? Is it connected to something in the oil plan or is the housing stand alone just lift it off (after releasing it from the gasket). My fear is that it is connected to something else and I multiply my problem.

Cutting the base with a dremel sounds like a plan I will consider.

I did find a device they say is designed for my purpose, so checking this out. See link. Available locally as well. Returning the other removal tools I bought so cost will be break even.

Bogert Aviation Talon Oil Filter Removal Tool​


I will let you know how I get on. Thanks again guys.
 
Jan, if I take the housing off removing the 4 bolts what are the implications? Is it connected to something in the oil plan or is the housing stand alone just lift it off (after releasing it from the gasket). My fear is that it is connected to something else and I multiply my problem.

David,

The four bolts only thread into the engine block. The only complication is if you have a sV with oil cooler adapter between block and filter base. Then, the bolts are long enough to go through the adapter block into the engine block. It shouldn't be any more than more mess and requiring TWO filter base gaskets.

Hope this helps,
 
Would not loosen the 4 oil filter block screws. Mess plus you won't have a proper counterlock for your overtightened filter remains. Unless you have good replacement block lying around...
 
Would not loosen the 4 oil filter block screws. Mess plus you won't have a proper counterlock for your overtightened filter remains. Unless you have good replacement block lying around...
Appreciate that input. Thanks
 
Consider sticking a Phillips screwdriver tip in 2 opposing holes. While pulling on one and pushing the other, you'll cause the base to twist and that should loosen it.
 
Removing (and reinstalling) the oil filter block is straightforward, as Husky Drvr wrote. Your chances of damaging the block are a lot lower if its mounted in a vise where the remnants of the filter are more accessible.
 
Cutting the base with a dremel sounds like a plan I will consider.

David,

Just a FYI, you need to be very careful about letting ANY foreign matter get into and travel down that central hole in the filter base. The flow path of oil through the filter is ENTER by small holes in the filter base, then EXIT by the large central hole to the engine's bearings. In other words, any trash in that central hole is POST filter and will not be filtered before reaching the bearings.

Just a thought,

1777943911015.png
 
Don't cut with a Dremel in place. Definitely better to yank the block and put it in a vise and then work on the old filter. Here is the bottom side of the block (two styles). Just a gasket on the bottom of the blocks. Oil cooler blocks are in the background. They use the same gasket.

1777946101292.png
 
David,

Just a FYI, you need to be very careful about letting ANY foreign matter get into and travel down that central hole in the filter base. The flow path of oil through the filter is ENTER by small holes in the filter base, then EXIT by the large central hole to the engine's bearings. In other words, any trash in that central hole is POST filter and will not be filtered before reaching the bearings.

Just a thought,

View attachment 38126

I did manage to get the stuck filter bottom off. I used the Oil Filter Removal tool I purchased (see post above)and lots of penetrating oil, a very nifty little tool. The key was buying a 3/8th 20inch socket extension, a 3/8 to 1/2 converter and a 1/2 rachet. That put the rachet at chest height so I could get lots of muscle behind it. I had if off in less than 5 minutes. Using a 6inch extension was futile.

Thanks for all the input guys, very much appreciated. I now plan to change the oil again as a precaution.

If anyone in Southern Ontario has to deal with a similar issue PM me and you can borrow the tool. I don't plan to use it again, lol.
 
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