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Non-Level 2150 carb Float Adjustment

Discussion in 'Modified Alpine' started by Mike Armstrong, May 18, 2016.

  1. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

    For you guys using the stock 2.8 manifold and 2 barrel carb, does your carb sit level in relation to the engine? The carb on the stock manifold sets at an angle but I'm pretty sure when the 2.8 is in a Ranger or Bronco the engine is slightly tilted back towards the firewall so the carb is level.

    Since the stock 2.8 in my Alpine sits level, the carb is not, it leans slightly in the direction of the radiator.

    How is this compensated for when adjusting the carb float level to spec?
  2. 260Alpine

    260Alpine Silver Level Sponsor

    Mike, can you space down the transmission mount and/or add washers to the motor mounts to level the carb. Most motors slant down around 3 degrees.
  3. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

    Hi Jim.

    Thought about that but I would have to raise it to a point that the angle of the fan would cause it to hit the radiator. I could go through the trouble of having the stock intake manifold machined level where the carb sits but that would be cost prohibitive and would warrant dumping the stock carb and intake for the Offy/Holley setup, which if I had plans go through the expense to overhaul and build the engine would make sense, but I don't. Stock is fine for me and the engine seems solid enough (good compression, no leaks, ect) to leave well alone.

    I was hoping this was a common 'problem' for a stock 2.8 installation. Like I said, my engine sits level and the fan is perpendicular to the radiator, just as I would expect the install to look like.

    I'll open up the float bowl and take a look but if I remember right the actual float is on the forward (towards the radiator) part of the bowl where the fuel surface level will be highest. I'll just measure the spec at the float/bowl edge even though the opposite side will end up lower than spec.
  4. 260Alpine

    260Alpine Silver Level Sponsor

    Mike, Did you reuse the stock feedback carb? On my kid's 84 Ranger we used a older 289 2 barrel with smaller jets. I think we went from 52 to 48 size. Used a Mustang II Duraspark distributor. Ran great. I remember there was a link to use a modified feedback carb also but without the mod it would run rich all the time.
  5. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

    Not 100% sure it's the 'original' stock carb, but it's the one that was on the engine when I bought it. Funny you should mention the jets. Just yesterday I was communicating with a 2.8 owner over at TheRangerStation. He said his stock 2150 carb came with size 50 main jets but after allot of experimentation he ended up sticking with size 42 jets then it ran great. I do think mine runs rich and floods easy. I'll check the jets when I adjust the float.

    I'm using the Cardone Remanfactured Distributor recommended in TheRangerStation 2.8 Duraspark II Conversion article.

  6. 260Alpine

    260Alpine Silver Level Sponsor

  7. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

  8. 260Alpine

    260Alpine Silver Level Sponsor

    I remembered the thread but didn't know we were both in it! Yeah, it will run way to rich unless you do. The large oval hole in the picture doesn't go through, just connects passage way.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  9. Bikesandfires

    Bikesandfires Donation Time

    To answer the question you asked... Being slightly tilted in any direction won't make enough difference in the float level to worry about. The Ford 2150 has a side hung float which is less sensitive to front/back orientation. A steep driveway will tip the carb more then what we are talking about here.

    Now, if you ever take your car to a track with medium to high banking and just try to putt around at a low speed up on the banking, expect to see problems with flooding or fuel starvation.

    The engine being level tho, brings up a question of driveshaft angle. Each end of the driveshaft should have the same angle (meaning if the pinion is sitting 3* above horizontal... the trans tailshaft should be set up 3* below horizontal). Same thing applies to lining up pinion and tailshaft down the centerline of the car. Doing otherwise will set up vibrations and can drastically reduce the life of u-joints.
  10. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

    Good points, thanks.

    The tailshaft is centered in the tunnel and 'appears' to be lined up correctly. I have yet to get a driveshaft made or drive the car so we'll see :)
  11. Gitnrusty

    Gitnrusty Donation Time

    Non level

    If you have clearance with the hood closed perhaps you could fit a tapered shim below the carb. to level it out.
    Not sure if its available any more, but long ago Ford had a phenolic (plastic) spacer about 1/4 or 3/8 thick that fit between manifold and carb. as a heat insulator.
    I seem to remember working one of these on a sandpaper sheet for about an hour to make it tapered.
    Just a thought!
  12. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor


    I think I have one of those 3/8 spacers lying around. I probably have the clearance to slip a 'wedged' spacer in there. There's probably a 1/4" difference in the front to back surface level. The car is still up on jacks and appears level as is. For now I'm going to adjust the float to spec and see how it sets once it's setting back on the ground.
  13. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Sounds like a job for JB Weld. It can take the heat, is cheap, easy to work and the application has no structural stress. Install greased bolts in the manifold, build up with JB Weld, remove the bolts and file to shape.

  14. Mike Armstrong

    Mike Armstrong Bronze Level Sponsor

    Had an interesting discussion with a mechanic buddy of mine. He was explaining the how and why of float bowls and their affect on carburation. In a nutshell, atmospheric pressure and amount of fuel within the bowl affect how much fuel exits the jets into the venturi. Because of decreased head pressure too little fuel in the bowl will cause leaning, too much causes richening. He says the key is the actual 'amount' of fuel in the bowl as specified by the manufacturer, not the position, or orientation of that fuel within the bowl (though extremes of coarse can cause problems).

    So for a non-level float bowl that always has its float on the lower side of the bowl, his suggestion is with the float removed fill the bowl about half way full. Measure the distance from the surface level of the fuel to the top of the bowl both front (low side) and rear (high side). The difference is the distance the float must be raised in order to keep the same amount of fuel in the bowl as when it is level. Right now, since my float is set at factory spec as measured from the front (low side) top of the bowl to the top of the float, because of the bowl angle the float is shutting off the inflow of fuel to the bowl before the normal amount has entered, lowering the head pressure and leading to a lean mixture and fuel starvation. Raising the float should compensate for this and increase the amount of fuel (head pressure) back to normal.

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