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NEWBIE here: About a month ago took home a Cali 67 MkV with 2.8 conversion.

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
Starting down a LONG list of to do things. After $2k for duals, replacement of shocks and as many bushings that could be fitted was told that rear springs needed replacing and of course they are NLA. The rear brakes were adjusted but mechanic still thought did not stop well enough. That I knew. The 67MK5 has only a single master cyl. Any way to improve this? Also what is the unit in the attached pic. hydraulic booster? Looks disconnected. Thanks much
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
I did come across a post about taking springs to truck spring repair shop. But what do you tell shop to do. I am thinking about just adding some helper springs. Coils are also NLA. Will be installiing spacers Saturday. The car lists inch to port side. : - )
The biggest problem I have besides my lack of education with Brit cars is the closest shop that is comfortable around Triumphs, MGs and assorted UK cars is the Sports Car SHop in Eugene OR over 2.5 hrs away over a mountain pass from Bend or. Going over a mtn. pass with poor brakes is a little daunting. And yes I have considered buying a car carrier cause this is more a pretty lass than a beast. It always drew a crowd at its first car show. SOunds great too. Other issue is diff. In 5th gear at 3500rpm it is making maybe 55MPH. Appreciate insights and iinfo.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Your picture didn't attach.
Your car would be a "series V"
The stock SV braking system has a booster ( servo) on the brakes.
The rear drums on the alpine SV were self adjusting ...and often are not adjusting properly.

What rear axle does your car have? Often the V6guys add a ford 8 or 8.8 rear end.. depending what it has your braking system may be non stock.

Re the MC ..yes sunbeam are a single braking system .. there are some datsun/Subaru and Willowood dual MC that people do fit...but depends on what brakes you run.. they can be upgraded.

Might also want to add a photo of the engine install and from bellow... There were a couple of kits for the converson
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Redo the springs. Take them apart, smooth out the wear grooves, and reassemble, using spring liner, available from Speedway Auto. Put a liner between all leafs. Alternate leafs, so the assembly will be left, right, left, etc. That will result in identical assembled height. The spring liner will produce springs stacks that are a little higher, so there will be little to no need for helper springs. The liner is slick plastic and produces a very compliant and durable set of springs at a very nominal cost.
Bill
 

Durhamguy

Platinum Level Sponsor
Novice question if I may, not sure what this means? "Alternate leafs, so the assembly will be left, right, left, etc. "

Is it alternate the lip of the spring liner between each leaf? Thanks
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
911tr8r, Send us some pictures of your new V6 toy....

Always interested in Sunbeams. PIC's provide much more than words and we can provide lots more help by understanding whay you have.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Novice question if I may, not sure what this means? "Alternate leafs, so the assembly will be left, right, left, etc. "

Is it alternate the lip of the spring liner between each leaf? Thanks
Instead of reassembling the left spring, then right spring, Reassemble in this order: left bottom leaf, strip of liner, right second leaf. Strip of liner, left third leaf, strip of liner, right fourth leaf. The resulting spring stacks will be equal in height.
Bill
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
I did come across a post about taking springs to truck spring repair shop. But what do you tell shop to do. I am thinking about just adding some helper springs. Coils are also NLA. Will be installiing spacers Saturday. The car lists inch to port side. : - )
The biggest problem I have besides my lack of education with Brit cars is the closest shop that is comfortable around Triumphs, MGs and assorted UK cars is the Sports Car SHop in Eugene OR over 2.5 hrs away over a mountain pass from Bend or. Going over a mtn. pass with poor brakes is a little daunting. And yes I have considered buying a car carrier cause this is more a pretty lass than a beast. It always drew a crowd at its first car show. SOunds great too. Other issue is diff. In 5th gear at 3500rpm it is making maybe 55MPH. Appreciate insights and iinfo.



The MPH @ RPM numbers you noted do not make sense unless your S-V V6 conversion has an extremely low (numerically high) rear axle ratio. In this case, extremely being something like 6.20:1.

With factory diameter rear tires and a 4.22:1 rear axle ratio (factory stock on a Series V Alpine), 3500 RPM would be about 55 MPH with a 1.00:1 4th gear and about 80 MPH with a 0.68:1 5th gear. A numerically lower rear axle ratio would increase the actual MPH/RPM values.

If not the factory S-V 4.22:1 rear axle, what rear axle and ratio is in your V6 conversion?

What transmission is in your V6 conversion? What is the 5th gear ratio?

What is the source of your RPM information? If the factory S-V tachometer, has it been calibrated for a 6-cylinder engine? If not the factory S-V tachometer, then what?

What is the source of your MPH information? If the factory S-V speedometer, has it been altered to work with your transmission? If so, have you checked the accuracy? If not the factory S-V speedometer, then what?
 
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PROCRAFT

Donation Time
I did come across a post about taking springs to truck spring repair shop. But what do you tell shop to do. I am thinking about just adding some helper springs. Coils are also NLA. Will be installiing spacers Saturday. The car lists inch to port side. : - )
The biggest problem I have besides my lack of education with Brit cars is the closest shop that is comfortable around Triumphs, MGs and assorted UK cars is the Sports Car SHop in Eugene OR over 2.5 hrs away over a mountain pass from Bend or. Going over a mtn. pass with poor brakes is a little daunting. And yes I have considered buying a car carrier cause this is more a pretty lass than a beast. It always drew a crowd at its first car show. SOunds great too. Other issue is diff. In 5th gear at 3500rpm it is making maybe 55MPH. Appreciate insights and iinfo.
Black Spring Zanesville Ohio.
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
The MPH @ RPM numbers you noted do not make sense unless your S-V V6 conversion has an extremely low (numerically high) rear axle ratio. In this case, extremely being something like 6.20:1.

With factory diameter rear tires and a 4.22:1 rear axle ratio (factory stock on a Series V Alpine), 3500 RPM would be about 55 MPH with a 1.00:1 4th gear and about 80 MPH with a 0.68:1 5th gear. A numerically lower rear axle ratio would increase the actual MPH/RPM values.

If not the factory S-V 4.22:1 rear axle, what rear axle and ratio is in your V6 conversion?

What transmission is in your V6 conversion? What is the 5th gear ratio?

What is the source of your RPM information? If the factory S-V tachometer, has it been calibrated for a 6-cylinder engine? If not the factory S-V tachometer, then what?

What is the source of your MPH information? If the factory S-V speedometer, has it been altered to work with your transmission? If so, have you checked the accuracy? If not the factory S-V speedometer, then what?
You are absolutely spot on. I must have the the 4:22:1 rear end. Unfortunately I cannot discern which trans it has except to say it is a FIVE speed. Here are some pics. The speedo is pretty accurate. Speed trap sign and my speedo are about same. I would like to tach no more than 3000RPM at flow of traffic which around here on 4 lane HWY is 60 MPH. Trans guy suggest ring and pinion change HOWEVER this just means that I have lower RPM at speed. I still have the issue of needing to shift every 10 mph, no ?
 

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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Just a guess.... the rear is an Alpine.

Can't tell from your PIC of the transmission if it iss a transmission. Can you provide more perhaps better PICs' for clarity and we can tell what you have?

If a T5 that is normally utilized behind the V6, it should (but, not necessarily so) have a tag with ID numbers similat to: 1352-238 or 1352-246 etc.,etc...
 

todd reid

Gold Level Sponsor
1. Keep in mind that we are talking about a tach that is over 55 years old and designed for a 4 cylinder car. Unless it has been recalibrated it is probably reading 50% high. Your local mechanic probably owns equipment that can verify your tach's accuracy (or inaccuracy). There is an opening on the back that allows adjustment with a small screw driver. Accuracy at high RPM is most important if you find that a compromise it necessary.
2. A lower numerical rear will have the effect of spreading the gear ratios which may result in less shifting.
3. It is not clear what state of tune your v6 is in. The stock V6 has like 40% more torque than the Alpine at a much lower RPM (2800 rpm IIRC), It can easily pull a much higher (lower numerically) rear. I run a 3.22 out of a Capri. Mustang II's (which were a lot heavier than your Alpine) came with a 3.55 rear from the factory. If your engine has been "hopped up" then the power and torque curves may have been altered. If you car still has a 2BBL carb I would feel comfortable that it is pretty close to stock, since upgrading to a 4BBL is usually high on the list of "improvements".
 
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911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
thanks for the tip about tach adjustment. I still have timing light and dwell meter from the olden days and of course a remote tach. I will check the accuracy. Also the instruments all look really nice. They are Jaeger Neg Grnd. There is a # bottom of face that ends in 01. I wonder if that is the mftg date. I think that when car was converted to neg grnd new instruments were installled.
OMG I knew I was having trouble learning new things but I now see the logic of lower diff resulting in longer time in each gear before shift. Next week S5 goes in for a new third member ring and pinion. I would go with something in the low 3:00 range.
Car has a 2BBL and no hotter cam. I just want to be able to get to car shows about 50 miles away and to be able to stop in an emergency....kids..dogs..deer etc.
THanks everyone for the responses. This is a great site.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
@911tr8r your rear does look like an alpine the SV stateside usually had the 4.22.

As for going to a low 3 ratio.. the only taller Rootes ratios are 3.89 and 3.7. the 3.70 is very rare to find.

A 3.89 with a 5 speed trans and appropriate size tyres will give decent highway cruising. What size wheels/tyres does the car have?
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
Keep in mind that we are talking about a tach that is over 55 years old and designed for a 4 cylinder car. Unless it has been recalibrated it is probably reading 50% high. Your local mechanic probably owns equipment that can verify your tach's accuracy (or inaccuracy). There is an opening on the back that allows adjustment with a small screw driver. Accuracy at high RPM is most important if you find that a compromise it necessary.
2. A lower numerical rear will have the effect of spreading the gear ratios which may result in less shifting.
3. It is not clearing what state of tune your v6 is in. The stock V6 has like 40% more torque than the Alpine at a much lower RPM (2800 rpm IIRC), It can easily pull a much higher (lower numerically) rear. I run a 3.22 out of a Capri. Mustang II's (which were a lot heavier than your Alpine) came with a 3.55 rear from the factory. If your engine has been "hopped up" then the power and torque curves may have been altered. If you car still has a 2BBL carb I would feel comfortable that it is pretty close to stock, since upgrading to a 4BBL is usually high on the list of "improvements"
I have 195.55.15 tires. Perhaps when the PO installed the V6 and 5 speed he found the 13" wheels taching to hi at HWY speeds so tried to get improvement by mounting 15 inchers. 9"W wheel with 4 3/4 back space and 1 3/4 front. Using plumbob I now have 3/4" room in rear so I figure 1/2" wider is all I can go. I can go with spacers or larger tires. WHat size 15" tire would be a 1/2 wider?
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
I have 195.55.15 tires. Perhaps when the PO installed the V6 and 5 speed he found the 13" wheels taching to hi at HWY speeds so tried to get improvement by mounting 15 inchers. 9"W wheel with 4 3/4 back space and 1 3/4 front. Using plumbob I now have 3/4" room in rear so I figure 1/2" wider is all I can go. I can go with spacers or larger tires. WHat size 15" tire would be a 1/2 wider?


Again, some numbers that do not make sense.

First, a 195/55-15 tire is only about 1/2" larger in diameter than the factory 5.90-13 or 6.00-13 tires. It is the tire diameter that matters, not the wheel diameter.

Second, a wheel with 4-3/4" backspace and 1-3/4" frontspace has a wheel width (the distance between the inside of the tire bead flanges) of about 5-1/2", not 9".

A 195 mm section width passenger radial tire has a section width of 7.68". A 205 mm section width passenger radial tire has a section width of 8.07". A 215 mm section width passenger radial tire has a section width of 8.46".

FWIW, there is no way to keep a wheel wider than about 7" (actual "wheel width") under the fenders of a Series Alpine with factory suspension and factory fenders. Hint; at the front, measure the horizontal distance from the outside of the upper ball joint to the outside of the fender at the top of the fender arch. At the back, measure the horizontal distance from the outside of the leaf spring to the outside of the fender at the top of the fender arch.
 
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alpine_64

Donation Time
@911tr8r it's not the tyre width is not the key figure that changes the rolling radius the aspect ratio the /50 .. 55.. 60 etc...the ratio will also allow you to increase rolling radius without adding width and causing issues with tyres outside the guards.

Does your car seem stressed at highway speeds or just the tach reads high ..the 195/55/15 is a decent radius and the 5 speed should be giving you at worst a .85 final drive
 

Steven Prisk

Donation Time
I did come across a post about taking springs to truck spring repair shop. But what do you tell shop to do. I am thinking about just adding some helper springs. Coils are also NLA. Will be installiing spacers Saturday. The car lists inch to port side. : - )
The biggest problem I have besides my lack of education with Brit cars is the closest shop that is comfortable around Triumphs, MGs and assorted UK cars is the Sports Car SHop in Eugene OR over 2.5 hrs away over a mountain pass from Bend or. Going over a mtn. pass with poor brakes is a little daunting. And yes I have considered buying a car carrier cause this is more a pretty lass than a beast. It always drew a crowd at its first car show. SOunds great too. Other issue is diff. In 5th gear at 3500rpm it is making maybe 55MPH. Appreciate insights and iinfo.
I took my car (1963 Mk2 with a 2.8 V6) over to a spring place and they measured all 4 corners then I took the Leafs off and they re-arched them.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
I took my car (1963 Mk2 with a 2.8 V6) over to a spring place and they measured all 4 corners then I took the Leafs off and they re-arched them.
A small correction for the sake of sunbeam models.

Talbot based Sunbeam Alpines 1953-55 are "Mark" cars. The MKI and MKIII

The 1959-68 Alpines are "Series" cars. Series I, II , 3, IV and V ( yes the series 3 used a number not toman numerals)

Tigers 1964-67 are Mark cars... MKI, MKIA and MKII

;)
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
1. Keep in mind that we are talking about a tach that is over 55 years old and designed for a 4 cylinder car. Unless it has been recalibrated it is probably reading 50% high. Your local mechanic probably owns equipment that can verify your tach's accuracy (or inaccuracy). There is an opening on the back that allows adjustment with a small screw driver. Accuracy at high RPM is most important if you find that a compromise it necessary.
2. A lower numerical rear will have the effect of spreading the gear ratios which may result in less shifting.
3. It is not clear what state of tune your v6 is in. The stock V6 has like 40% more torque than the Alpine at a much lower RPM (2800 rpm IIRC), It can easily pull a much higher (lower numerically) rear. I run a 3.22 out of a Capri. Mustang II's (which were a lot heavier than your Alpine) came with a 3.55 rear from the factory. If your engine has been "hopped up" then the power and torque curves may have been altered. If you car still has a 2BBL carb I would feel comfortable that it is pretty close to stock, since upgrading to a 4BBL is usually high on the list of "improvements".
thanks, testing against new old tach which I found today. I bet that I can tell by ear within 1000 RPM. I will test that as well. If that fails I need to replace my Costco hearing aids. :- (
 
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