Mission Creep.....The Dash

[the_elder_rocker]

Hi folks-
The mystery oil temp gauge had to come out- it was bugging me. 1/2 inch flare cap and a bunch of red Locktite solved the bung in the oil pan issue, As you saw in the photo, when they moved the fuel gauge to the center they buggered the plastic dash to fit a filler so the gauge would stay in the larger hole. The more I looked at it the more it aggravated me so....out came the dash! I had a nice sheet of veneer from a project years ago so it's going to get a wood dash. As is only right for a Little British Car. Also in the photo you can see the horrible, ugly, oh, so wrong state of the bottom support that in a better time had a nice vinyl wrapping. Well, it needs to be so again. Here's a thought- Has anyone ever used closed-cell foam concrete backer rod for this pad? 20 feet is like 8 bucks or if you have a buddy in the concrete business they would likely just lop off a few feet for you. Seems obvious- 3/4 inch round- just slice it lengthwise and there you are. Glue and wrap. Voila! I do like the idea of closed cell over upholstery foam as the closed cell foam will not retain water. Might ward off some of the rust issues that I've seen in every photo of the bare metal lower support. I've use pool noodles for some similar projects in the past with good results. Am I thinking right or just aiming into the wind on this one? Bear with me- I have a dull job and a computer- lots of time to think. (Overthink?!?)
Thanks-
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[Mike O'D]

I'm not familiar with the concrete backer, but I used closed cell pipe insulation - worked great.

 

[bobbo]

If I recall, Bill blue had mentioned at one time he had used the foam pipe insulation. It's already slit down the centre, so should work fine. Not sure what you might use for the top of the dash though.

 

[Asm109]

Or buy a foam piece from Sunbeam specialities at the same time you buy the vinyl cover.

 

[Aladin Sane]

I bought mine from sunbeam specialties. I had a local upholstery shop install the foam and wrap the vinyl.

 

[the_elder_rocker]

Update- The 3/4 backer rod is a bit small. Wrapping it in a bit of scrim would do but more of a PIA than it's worth. I'll just have to cut some foam off the block I have and go like that. 1" backer rod is out there but really uncommon. As far as just ordering it- sure, easier but where's the fun in that? Wrapping this piece doesn't look hard at all and I do have the foam, contact cement and vinyl on hand. I am short on foam brushes though, next time I'm in town I'll grab a handfull. I do have an excellent trimmer that I've known for decades. He's done all my seats, tops and headliners forever but this piece is remedial work really.

 

[Mike O'D]

I used marine vinyl that had some thickness to it. I didn't see any good reason to use foam on the top of the dash. It came out great. I don't know what type of contact cement you plan to use, but make sure it's suitable for high temp. I used Weldwood Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement. Great stuff.

 

[the_elder_rocker]

Dash is veneered and varnished. Good start on lower padding. Question- has anyone ever seen a metal glovebox (cubby) door like this one? It was on the car when I got it and this is the only Alpine I've ever been around. I've looked and can find no photos of one like this. Not factory but fits like it growed there.
Thanks-
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[the_elder_rocker]

I used marine vinyl that had some thickness to it. I didn't see any good reason to use foam on the top of the dash. It came out great. I don't know what type of contact cement you plan to use, but make sure it's suitable for high temp. I used Weldwood Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement. Great stuff.

That is very tidy. Looks great. Thanks.

 

[Aladin Sane]

I can't say I have seen that door before. I do like how it looks with your dash.

 

[jfcroni]

I did this one years ago. I used oak... because that's what I had around. I'd use a more exotic wood if I were to do it again.

 

[ForzaDesign]

I have it from a reliable source that the Sunbeam Specialties dashes are now available.
Look for a detailed announcement very very soon!!!!

 

[the_elder_rocker]

I did this one years ago. I used oak... because that's what I had around. I'd use a more exotic wood if I were to do it again.

Nice looking dash. I used red oak veneer because I had it from a project years ago. I might have gone a fancier wood if it was a Vanden Plas or a Tiger but these cars ain't that. Total cost- 2 foam brushes. Everything else I had on hand.

 

[the_elder_rocker]

Mission Creep strikes again! Finally got out of the deep freeze here in Kansas and had some nice shop time. Waiting on some 4 way stretch vinyl to come in on the mule train (OK, it feels like it takes forever- I live very rural) and decided to properly route the choke cable and heat control cable. Simple process, right? Um..... Using a thin rod to fish the control cable through the top hole in the firewall- in it goes- looking to exit through the hole in the air box I hear tap, tap, tap, then no tap. Feels soft. What the.... mouse nest. Bugger! Spent an hour with a piece of baling wire with a small hook bent into the end pulling it out, then needlenose pliers to get bigger wads of the stuff out. All the while scrunched down under the dash. Before you say it, I know pulling the air box might have been the way to go, but one hour fishing out enough hantafill to do a nice couch pillow beats a full day to disassemble everything under the dash. In the end, it's out, the cable is routed nicely, and my sore back and thigh muscles will go away. Bonus- it's old enough that it didn't even stink and there were no current occupants!

 

[todd reid]

make sure your final "varnish" is UV resistant (I used a clear urethane). The stuff made for boats is one way to go - designed to resist UVs and salt water.

 

[the_elder_rocker]

Thanks Todd. Had some Helmsman polyurethane spar varnish left from an oak bed floor on a '52 Chevy pickup from a while back. It's all I use. It has to be better than what the factory would have used all those decades ago.

 

[ForzaDesign]

After working on this project for a year and researching/testing different materials and processes, 2K materials are the only logical choice (urethane and polyester). For best finish and durability. There is no way getting around the correct material and detail to finish if you want the highest quality finished product.

 

[the_elder_rocker]

Thanks for the reply Jim. I've read your posts and really admire the work and thought that goes into your top-level stuff. Completely off topic- I notice your '65 is Embassy Black. My '67 is the same paint code. What color is your interior? Mine's black but I'm leaning red for the re-do.
Thanks!

 

[ForzaDesign]

i appreciate the compliment. i made sure all bases were covered so all the Sunbeamers would have the best quality dashes moving forward.
The 65 is black on black factory OD car.
I actually change direction in midstream when i found this 67 sitting since 1980.

 

[Mike O'D]

I want that "garage"! Car is looking beautiful!