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Judy, Judy, Judy

D

Durapine 2

Donation Time
Turns out there is a gas leak in Judy. I think it’s coming from the glass bowl on the “passenger” side of the engine, fuel pump maybe?
IMG_0074.jpeg
Thoughts? I’m guessing decaying gasket… but does someone make these still? I’m not my father, but is it fixable without a mechanic?

Then there are her Headlight/parking light switch(es). It appears that someone re-wired all of her lights to work off of one switch….
IMG_0073.jpeg
IMG_0072.jpeg
Which I guess was a fine idea, but I wonder if that lead to the failure of her headlight switch… it appears that the switch components melted into the housing… thoughts on if that happened because of the wiring?
IMG_0071.jpeg
Should I un-link the wires and re-wire the parking lights and head lights to their individual switches?

Thanks all!
 
Durapine 2 said:
Should I un-link the wires and re-wire the parking lights and head lights to their individual switches?
Click to expand...
You probably should as the switch , to get that hot, would be over loaded. Either that or put one circuit through a relay if you want it to work on one switch.
 
sunalp said:
You probably should as the switch , to get that hot, would be over loaded. Either that or put one circuit through a relay if you want it to work on one switch.
Click to expand...
So there was even a question (in the family conversation) if a relay was even used in cars that old… Guessing not..
 
I had the same problem with the lighting switches in my first Sunbeam, also a '69 Coupe fastback, some 45 years ago. Enough crud had found its way inside the switch that it shorted. I was able to clean mine up and re-use it. Looks like yours may have melted a bit more.
 
Is Judy the 69 Alpine fastback? If so, I don't know if they used the same fuel pumps as the series Alpines.
 
If you have newer headlights, it's a good idea to add a relay to get the amps off the switch. I added relays to my series 2, the switch is cold when they are on and they are a lot brighter.
 
You can turn the knob at the top of the glass dome to tighten it and see if that stops the leak. Check the glass first though to make sure it doesn't have a crack in it. What's the history of it?
 
hartmandm said:
Is Judy the 69 Alpine fastback? If so, I don't know if they used the same fuel pumps as the series Alpines.
Click to expand...
Judy is a 69 Alpine fastback! I did try classic sunbeam and he didn't seem to think it would work...
 

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    Judy.jpeg
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Toyanvil said:
If you have newer headlights, it's a good idea to add a relay to get the amps off the switch. I added relays to my series 2, the switch is cold when they are on and they are a lot brighter.
Click to expand...
As far as I'm aware the headlights are as old as Judy, I've not heard of anyone switching them out, the Odometer is under 20K (not sure if that means anything)
 
Scotty said:
You can turn the knob at the top of the glass dome to tighten it and see if that stops the leak. Check the glass first though to make sure it doesn't have a crack in it. What's the history of it?
Click to expand...
My understanding is she was barned (some might say garaged) in Texas for a number of years, purchased and brought to Ohio for another shorter amount of time. Then purchased by my parents with the help of Bob and Judy Sharkey in 2020. (Judy being her namesake) I think when my dad got her, he switched out the stock carburetor for a Fish (stock still around) did some electrical work (though, not the headlights to my knowledge). I think the electrical work was the Tach, since the speedometer was bouncy and the alternator... added cup holders :) changed out tires & wheels. I'm not certain of all of that though...
 
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Durapine 2 said:
Turns out there is a gas leak in Judy. I think it’s coming from the glass bowl on the “passenger” side of the engine, fuel pump maybe?
View attachment 36293
Thoughts? I’m guessing decaying gasket… but does someone make these still? I’m not my father, but is it fixable without a mechanic?

Then there are her Headlight/parking light switch(es). It appears that someone re-wired all of her lights to work off of one switch….
View attachment 36297
View attachment 36298
Which I guess was a fine idea, but I wonder if that lead to the failure of her headlight switch… it appears that the switch components melted into the housing… thoughts on if that happened because of the wiring?
View attachment 36299
Should I un-link the wires and re-wire the parking lights and head lights to their individual switches?

Thanks all!
Click to expand...
From the picture of your fuel pump glass bowl it looks like a little TLC maintenance would help find the leak. Its not hard to remove the fuel pump and give it a bit of cleaning and inspection. Sunbeam Specialties has the gaskets and seals you might need. Nice that you appear to still have the original glass bowl pump!
 
Thanks for all of this. Really. Time for a 20 questions...
I've got the gaskets, (I've had the gaskets) I've put most of the new ones in the pump...
1. Should there be extras? I did not add the new check valves, or the gaskets for them but it's not making much of a vacuum...
2. One of the (old) check valves seems VERY weak. I can easily suck air through the fuel out. From the fuel out, I can feel some air pushing back when providing back pressure from the fuel out. I don't know if this is the issue with the weak vacuum. is it? Luckily the gasket set came with new check valves.
3. How do I remove the old check valves to get the new ones in? (if this is the issue)
4. Should I do both, even though only 1 seems weak? (I think this weak one is the outlet valve) on the left in the image below. (you can see the new valves ready to go in. (as well as the new valve gaskets still out...IMG_4657.jpeg

5. When I put the fuel pump back, the "manual primer" did not move on it's own, when cranking the engine... I don't remember if it ever did move when the engine ran... Should it?
4. Initially I thought that the curve of the "arm" should go "under" the cam... but the more I think about it, the flat part (facing down in the picture) is what interacts and should press agains the smooth surface of the cam, yes?
IMG_4672.jpeg
7. There are a few gaskets and seals left over, I do not see where the extra (smaller) rubber gasket goes the bigger one, seems to fit under the bowl nicely... Is the smaller one for the version without the bowl?

Thanks for your help on all of this!IMG_4672.jpegIMG_4657.jpeg
 
Judy could use a pump.*

In the header, I mean title....

A pal is wrestling with one and I have a spare on the bench. Looks like it sucks but unknown if it works. SS has a replacement without the glass bowl.
 
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The kits don't come with everything to fully rebuild our fuel pumps, just enough to get it back on the road provided what you got is good enough and all there. That didn't inspire confidence in me when I rebuilt my glass fuel pump and my car is a daily driver and I eventually decided as much as I should trust it, for some reason I didn't. I'm superstitious and weird like that.

I'm of the mind that if you're going to disassemble something, install as much new everything/new old stock as you got before reassembling.

I punched an awl into the center of each of the check valves and popped them out. Used a socket of the same size and used that with a hammer to tap in the check valves with their gaskets pre-installed. The manual prime should make the pump make a sucking flop sound that you will easily hear once it's all put back together.

Legend has it that there IS a full rebuild style kit out there but I have yet to see it. The ones SS and CS sells are not.

The non-glass pump replacements they're making are pretty bad. Had one bite it and leak out the side. Ended up installing an electric pump, a Malpassi regulator, a psi gauge and carry a spare. Been running well with reliable pressure since.
 
I've got a "sucking flop" noise now. The vacuum gauge is showing a vacuum (not to the level it needs, but a vacuum none the less)

I wasn't saying that the pump needed primed while the engine was running but I didn't know if that might a "sign" that it was installed correctly.

While not a "complete" re-build kit, I think it was pretty good. New gaskets, new check valves, new bladder and spring... There were things I couldn't get to or not there that hopefully will not be an issue (inner springs and filter gauze etc...)

Those valves do not come out easily, or in 1 piece... (or am I not gentle enough?) Putting it back in now. Hopefully it'll work
Fingers crossed!!
Thanks all
 
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