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Jerking While Driving and... Stall

A few pictures of when I rebuilt my pump. Used a Dremel to remove the valves.
 

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I just wanted to add a small point. I could have missed it. But I think I saw you set the distributor points by gap only. I believe I'm relatively pretty good working on cars, and have kept my Sunbeams and Porsches running pretty well for decades. But the one thing that I have never been able to do well is set the gap on the Alpine. I would set it using a gap gauge, then use a dwell meter to find I was quite off. So I largely gave up on just using a gap gauge and always use a dwell meter (and/or moved to Pertronix, ha!).

I also missed if you confirmed that there are no particles at the bottom of your fuel tank/cross over tube.
 
I had the same problem on a series II with a cleaned and coated tank and electric pump. After a fill-up within a mile the car would almost die then catch itself and ran great till the next fill-up. This went on for a year then was getting worse. Finally died and wouldn't start untill I blew into the gas filler then ok to get home.
Checking the lines, I was only getting a dribble of gas until disconnecting the line at the tank. There was a flake of debris that was sticking halfway out of the gas tank connection acting like a butterfly valve. Removed the flake, blew out the line to the carb (all was clean). Still running great years later.
 
Been driving for almost the last week since rebuilding the fuel pump. One of the easiest things I have had to do on this car. As long as I can get parts, I'll keep running it. Have electric pumps on the shelf just in case.

Choke works and the idle is down to 750 although the car is now cold blooded and needs time to start up which I am sure is due to the log manifold and how it distributes gas. It'll run on two cylinders and once gas catches up, the other two show up and it runs fine, so I'm setting aside money for Jerome's kit.

Thank you all for your help! Survived this rabbit hole lol.
 
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