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I need a clutch kit

Ashfried

Donation Time
I am looking for a 3 piece clutch kit for a series V, 25 spline. Does anyone sell these new or have old stock? if not I will take any advice on how to find a way to get my baby back on the road.:(
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
25 spline is a hard one to find, the best bet would be to have it all rebuilt. It would cost alot to convert to the early setup but that may be a better idea. :cool:
 

Ashfried

Donation Time
24 spline

Found out from Hartmandm, that I do not need the 25 spline, used it in 1966 sV, but after my alpine was built. My 66 was acutally built in Nov of 1965 (B395001227 LRX).

I am still looking for Disk, Pressure plate and bearing, and am trying to narrow down part numbers and who has the new or reconditined to sell.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
Have you pulled the gearbox yet to inspect the clutch components and determine what needs to be addressed? You can get the pressure plate and disc rebuilt if needed. You will want to check the condition of the flywheel and address any issue there. You should install a new pilot bearing while it is all apart.

Sunbeam Specialties sells new release bearings (carbon type - not roller) and the pilot bearing. Soak the new pilot bearing in engine oil for a few days and then leave it in the freezer overnight before attempting to push it into place.

As you might guess, I recently removed the clutch components from my Series V. My flywheel was in good shape. I just cleaned the face with a cloth and rubbing alcohol. Replaced the pilot bearing that sits in the center of the flywheel. Rebuilt the clutch disc. My pressure plate was fine. Replaced the release bearing. Also installed a rubber gaiter boot on the bell housing to keep dirt out.

Mike
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
Before you pull the gearbox...what are the symptoms of the clutch issue? You should rule out issues with the clutch hydraulics (e.g. clutch slave is not moving the release bearing arm or the clutch slave is mounted on the wrong side of the bell housing) prior to pulling the gearbox (or engine + gearbox if so inclined).

Mike
 

Ashfried

Donation Time
No, I have not removed the gearbox yet. This job is beyond me. I am going to have a local shop do it for me, so I am gathering all the parts that could possibly be bad, then take them to them and have it done in one shot. I know that will mean more cost, but if I tried it, my alpine might be apart for awhile. If i had a lift, I might try it.

I did get very lucky. I live near John Green, and he has located a recon presure plate and new disk for me, and I just ordered carbon release bearing, pilot bushing, clutch lever (rubber boot), 3 dowel pins and ring gear from alpine specialties. John also had an in box slave cyclinder and master cyclinder, so I think I now will have every part.

When you did yours, did you remove the radiator and engine mounts and slide the engine away from the transmision to get at the clutch or did you disconnect the drive shaft from the overdrive and drop the trasmission? I have read that some people remove engine and transmission completley
 

Ashfried

Donation Time
I wish it was hydrolic, but the shop I am using is convinced it is not. I just got the new slave cyl and master cyl which I will replace today.... It would be amazing if that fixed it, but I am not counting on it.

It went from being a smooth shift to taking heavy pressure to get it into gear and click as it went in. As I was nursing it home i was unable to get it into 1st or 3rd gear. I had to stay in 2nd
 

65beam

Donation Time
kit

you should have waited until you pulled the transmission before buying parts. many things such as the transmission, clutch,etc may have been changed over the years. don't rely on the VIN to tell you what is in your car. these are parts that can be swapped around.
 

Ashfried

Donation Time
I have had that problem before, but at least I have the parts that should be correct. If not I will have some returns to do and reordering. I know it is a crap shoot, but my best option. What I need is another garage with a lift, so I can do the work myself. Take it apart, order what needed, put back together.... I can dream
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
...

When you did yours, did you remove the radiator and engine mounts and slide the engine away from the transmision to get at the clutch or did you disconnect the drive shaft from the overdrive and drop the trasmission? I have read that some people remove engine and transmission completley

I only removed the gearbox and replaced it with an overdrive gearbox. I do not have equipment to pull the engine. I made some wooden platforms to elevate the car. Followed the WSM procedure for removing the gearbox. You leave the engine mounts in place and rotate the engine & gearbox downwards. The rocker cover will rest upon a thin piece of wood against the firewall. I also supported the rear of the engine with jack stands and wood. The gearbox then slides off the engine. I did purchase an inexpensive low profile transmission jack. That made a huge difference with removal and installation. I was able to do all the work by myself. I plan to write up a detailed summary of what I did in case others find it useful.

Mike
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
A note here when dropping the trans. down make sure you disconect the header pipe so you can get the motor at a full tilt. This makes getting the trans. out and back in real easy. Just a thought! :cool:
 
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