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Hand Brake

Eleven

Eleven

Platinum Level Sponsor
Almost done. Can any one point me to a photo of the cable routing from the diff back? All the photos I took did not make it past the hard drive crash a few years ago. (No, I was not smart enough to back them up!!!!!) Alpine SV.
All I have left is the handbrake, system bleed, wire the alternator and install the choke cable and Alpine will be back on the road! Been parked for over 5 years.
Everyone here has been amazing in helping me out, many thanks!
 
hartmandm

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
Tracy,

Some photos I have. I can take some more if needed.

http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20131229-006-RH-drum-brake.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20131229-007-RH-drum-brake.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20131229-008-RH-drum-brake.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20140918-001-differential.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20150116-001-rear-brake-hose-connection.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20150116-002-handbrake-connection.jpg

Mike
 
Eleven

Eleven

Platinum Level Sponsor
Thank you, that helps a ton! When it arrives at the rear of the car, does it go to the diff first or to the driver side brake and then across. I cannot express how much I appreciate your help!
 
hartmandm

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
The cable + sheath goes from inside the car to the differential, and is routed via the bracket on the rear axle. In this photo, you also see the solid rod going to the driver's side drum brake.
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20140918-001-differential.jpg

At the differential, the cable + sheath connects to the solid rod that goes to the driver's side drum brake. The steel cable exits the sheath, goes through a rubber piece, and connects to the passenger side drum brake.
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20150116-002-handbrake-connection.jpg

Mike
 
Jimjordan2

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
Off subject, but, Speaking of Handbrakes, I learned a valuable lesson very cheaply yesterday. Pulled into the driveway, left the car running, pulled on the handbrake, went to open the gates and when I turned around, the car was in the street. Fortunately, the wheels were turned a bit, and the brake was on enuf to have it slowly go down the driveway and settle in the middle of the street. I nearly XXXX my shorts. Worse thing about it, was the rubber wheel chock sitting right there in the driveway. Either chock it, or turn the engine off. I'll probably be turning the engine off from now on.
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
One thing not mentioned. On the drivers side you should see a small hole in the bottom of the inner wheel well just ahead of where the rear axle is. Originally there was a clip, like the ones holding the wiring harness behind the dash, that the brake cable went through to hold it up from the movement of the rear assembly. I presume to ensure it didn't hit the spinning edge of the brake drum and eventually wear through, plus holding it up from the road debris.
 
Ken Ellis

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Jimjordan2 said:
Off subject, but, Speaking of Handbrakes, I learned a valuable lesson very cheaply yesterday. Pulled into the driveway, left the car running, pulled on the handbrake, went to open the gates and when I turned around, the car was in the street. Fortunately, the wheels were turned a bit, and the brake was on enuf to have it slowly go down the driveway and settle in the middle of the street. I nearly XXXX my shorts. Worse thing about it, was the rubber wheel chock sitting right there in the driveway. Either chock it, or turn the engine off. I'll probably be turning the engine off from now on.
Click to expand...

I hate it when they sneak off like that...

Also, don't overlook option C, fix/adjust the brake. I use the parking brake all the time when I get stopped by the light on a certain hill in the neighborhood. It's tight enough to hold on the tilt trailer when loading, though I back it up with the transmission, and a chock when I get out.
 
Eleven

Eleven

Platinum Level Sponsor
Jimjordan2 said:
Off subject, but, Speaking of Handbrakes, I learned a valuable lesson very cheaply yesterday. Pulled into the driveway, left the car running, pulled on the handbrake, went to open the gates and when I turned around, the car was in the street. Fortunately, the wheels were turned a bit, and the brake was on enuf to have it slowly go down the driveway and settle in the middle of the street. I nearly XXXX my shorts. Worse thing about it, was the rubber wheel chock sitting right there in the driveway. Either chock it, or turn the engine off. I'll probably be turning the engine off from now on.
Click to expand...
  • Thanks Jim. I did not know about that and would have overlooked it. Much appreciated.

  • As to handbrakes slipping; mine was marginal before. Second to last drive, the car was getting sluggish so I pulled off to look at it and a cloud of smoke smelling like brake liner overtook me. Doggone hand brake design is faulty, couldn't hold the car at 60 mph... (Unfortunately, my youngest son was with me and felt the need to instruct me on how to release the handbrake before driving)
 
Jay Laifman

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
Anyone have a picture of the "clip" (presumably a D clip) that holds the handbrake cable with a "self-tapping screw" - which I think goes in the hole on the edge of the inner wheel well, just past where the cable comes out of the driver's compartment? (The quotes are from the WSM145 page K2-19)

My car currently doesn't have one - and never seemed to be an issue. With the new cable I put in, the cable is rubbing on the tire, which caused me to discover the missing clip.
 
sunalp

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
I made one with a piece of sheet metal, bent it around the cable, drilled a hole and screwed it on. It's still
on the car, even though I don't own it anymore.

I'll see if I can take a shot of one today.
 
Barry

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
IME, sheet metal screws do not typically hold well in sheet metal. I would use either a nut & bolt or a blind rivet (aka, break stem rivet or pop rivet), preferably with a washer on the back side. Nothing inherently wrong with making a clamp from sheet metal, but I like rubber insulated stainless steel clamps:
 
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