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Gearbox removal got stuck

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi all, I'm removing the transmission to rebuild the clutch.
I followed the service manual but I got stuck.
Series 4 manual.
The engine is dropped, oil filling cap close to the firewall. The bell housing came off completely but the gearbox is still up there and does not drop.
I thought that the selector was not letting it go back enough so I removed it but nothing.
The gearbox spins in place but it does not move forward or backwards.
I did not remove the drive shaft and I did not loose the engine supports. Should I?
What I am missing?
Thanks!
 

bobbo

Gold Level Sponsor
on removing my engine and transmission assembly complete, I had to drop the transmission support. all pulled out of the engine bay.
Mine is a SV, but expect yours to be close. It should slide off the splines driveshaft.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The gearbox spins in place but it does not move forward or backwards.

When you say "spins in place", do you mean the transmission will rotate in a complete circle ? And it is still connected to the drive shaft ?
 

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
I had the pilot bushing stuck on the trans shaft. Heck of a time prying them apart, This was out of the S1 though.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
I did not remove the drive shaft

I believe the manual is in error in not telling you to remove the "propeller" or drive shaft. I think it is impossible to remove the tranny without first disconnecting the shaft from the differential yoke and then pulling the shaft out from the rear of the tranny. In your manual, see the instructions for removing the tranny from a Rapier.

Tom
 

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
Didn't know you could remove the trans w/o disconnecting the d/s. Must be more end play in the front spline connection than I realized.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
No, it's not possible. WSM for Series V correctly describes the removal. It's simply an error of omission in WSM124
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
I ended up removing the shaft. After that it did drop easily!

Now that I have the gearbox removed, any suggestions about how to get it clean?

I just received the parts for the overhaul from sunbeam specialties. Master and slave kits (while I'm there), new disc's, a bushing (no idea where it goes yet) and the piece that pushes the pressure plate.
The steel disc on the pressure plate is really damaged. The disks rivets did dig a trail in it!
Rick gave me the contact for a shop in Seattle that is able to rebuild my pressure plate. Do you just send the old plate for rebuild or some parts from sunbeam specialties needs to go with it? I'll try to call them again on Monday but if some of you guys remember that would be awesome
 

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sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Rick gave me the contact for a shop in Seattle that is able to rebuild my pressure plate

There's a shop a whole lot closer to you than Seattle. Try Falcon clutch in Long Island. They rebuilt the disk and refurbished the pressur
plate as it looked similar to yours. It's like new and they didn't charge much to do it. They even have an Alpine on their
website!
Cheers!
Steve
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am in Portland oregon, so Seattle is not that far.

As for the gearbox, it was really filthy. Both Iside the bell and outside. Is there any possible leaking causing all that gunk or just age?
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
Here are my notes on references I have seen on the SAOCA forum:

  • http://www.southbendclutch.com/index.html (Source: George Coleman April 2015)

  • Fort Wayne Clutch http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/ (5 years ago prices: Disk $50, pressure plate $50 + shipping.) (Source: Todd Nordby April 2015)

  • Kip Motor www.kipmotor.com (Source: me)

  • Valley Friction, 11817 Sherman Way, N. Hollywood 818-765-5174 will do the clutch disc. I think it was about $75? (Source: Jimjordan2 August 2016)

  • Southland Clutch, 101 East 18th St. National City, CA 800-310-2588 Will rebuild the Clutch cover/Pressure plate. They were not cheap, but did a nice job, replacing the pressure pad, rebuilding the plate, resurfacing etc. $125.00. (Source: Jimjordan2 August 2016)

  • Falcon Clutch in Long Island (Source: sunalp August 2020)
Mike
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Here are my notes on references I have seen on the SAOCA forum:

  • http://www.southbendclutch.com/index.html (Source: George Coleman April 2015)

  • Fort Wayne Clutch http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/ (5 years ago prices: Disk $50, pressure plate $50 + shipping.) (Source: Todd Nordby April 2015)

  • Kip Motor www.kipmotor.com (Source: me)

  • Valley Friction, 11817 Sherman Way, N. Hollywood 818-765-5174 will do the clutch disc. I think it was about $75? (Source: Jimjordan2 August 2016)

  • Southland Clutch, 101 East 18th St. National City, CA 800-310-2588 Will rebuild the Clutch cover/Pressure plate. They were not cheap, but did a nice job, replacing the pressure pad, rebuilding the plate, resurfacing etc. $125.00. (Source: Jimjordan2 August 2016)

  • Falcon Clutch in Long Island (Source: sunalp August 2020)
Mike
Mike, I was going through the forums too. This is really useful. Thanks!
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
How did you lower the transmission with the front wheels on stands?
It gave me more room. It was easy once I figured it out. I then put engine and transmission all together with the stands on the rear wheels (decided to remove the engine for a full rebuild)
 
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