• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

front steering ! 1964 alger- mgb rack and pinion

fonz

Silver Level Sponsor
with the "Rack" (MGB) installed in the stock position, if I have the steering Toe
set at 1/8" "toe in", if I jack up the car it totally changes (ALOT). How can the steering bet set to stay "Straight". ?? seems like the tie rods Have To go inward when lifted? . I have not got a stock one to Compare and measure from. Diagrams ??? Thank you. control arms going up and down, so the steering arms are going up and down and the rack is in fixed position ! seems like the "TOE" Must change every time the front of the car goes up and down. HELP !
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Fonz. That is called bump steer. You may have to bend the steering arms or swap side to side and have tie rod ends go the other way. With your car at ride height the lower A arms should be level with the road and the tie rods also level with the road. that way you are in the middle of the arc and minimize bump steer. Should go towards toe in under compression and toe out at droop. In 3" travel midpoint should be minimum.
 
Last edited:

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
20210427_180813.jpg This picture is a lowered MGB. If your front has shorter springs your lower A arms will slant up too. His tie rod is close to the same angle as his A arm.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
The most common cause of bump-steer is the track bar + drag link alignment. Even if they look close to parallel, its the arc of each that needs to match. As the axle moves up and down, it should follow the matched arcs for perfect steering geometry, and no bump steer if this is in fact the problem.


bumpsteer1.jpg
 

fonz

Silver Level Sponsor
The "TRACK BAR" Being the Control Arm ? ****is there a Specific" Purpose" for each Tie Rod being "BENT" ?? **** When I lift my car (with a floor jack under the Center of the Front Cross member ). The tires will stay on the ground, but because the Rack is now about 3" Higher, then EACH tie rod is pulled IN about 1.5 inches ! making the "Toe" about 3 " Inward ! Does it make any difference if the tie rod Ends are installed UPward or Downward into the steering arms ??? I think I'm going to drop the front suspension out of the car to make it easier to work on. (reasonable ?) easy enough to do, (already been in and out a few times just for cleaning and painting)
The most common cause of bump-steer is the track bar + drag link alignment. Even if they look close to parallel, its the arc of each that needs to match. As the axle moves up and down, it should follow the matched arcs for perfect steering geometry, and no bump steer if this is in fact the problem.


bumpsteer1.jpg
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
You need to look at it at ride height and compare control arm and tie rod angles. Should be opposite of what you have, toe out at 3" droop, Toe in at 3" compression and center of arc/close to zero. Set toe in 1/16"-1/8" toe at ride height.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Fonz, Bill had tie rod ends pointed down to get angles close. Here is an idea. Jack up suspension so tire is above ground. Use an anglefinder to check tie rod angle. Now lift a little higher and put a 4x4 (actually 3.5"x3.5") under the tire and let jack down and check angle. You want to also check lower control arm angles. At ride height both should be in the middle of travel for minimum bump steer.
 
Last edited:
Top