floor pans

[motor man]

what are some choices for my rusted out floor pans?????

 

[mikephillips]

For fronts,
You can make your own from sheet stock.
You can buy those that VB sells, but be aware they're not quite right but can be made to fit.
You can do a search on Rob Martel and see if you can get them from his company, sometimes you can sometimes not.

For rears, if it's a 3 or later the same options apply. If it's a I or II then you'll need to make your own as there are no replacements available I've seen.

 

[miket]

Mike,

With regards to Plan A, what is the best guage of metal to buy.

Does it matter that the floor will be perfectly flat and not ribbed?

Mike

 

[Ken Ellis]

The ribs give it the necessary strength. I think 'make your own' includes pounding out (in?) the ribs by neanderthal methods. Even with a heavier gauge, 'oilcanning' will result if some means of stiffening isn't applied. (Obviously, if you're patching a flat section, then you can use flat metal to do it...)

Ken

 

[miket]

Jegs and Summit have a set that looks quite generic.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-505-60L&N=700+400463+314123+115&autoview=sku

I'm going to try and get the dimensions.

 

[twautomotive]

There is another thread about a source for these in the cars and parts for sale.

 

[miket]

I found this link, which shows the complexity of the project.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/129345359FFOOwu


Mike

 

[skywords]

If you are not worried about originality you could rivet L angle to the bottom side and achieve equal or better strength than the depressions.

 

[V6 JOSE]

Why not weld the L angle to the pan after it is welded to the car? I think it would be easier to weld it, because you could put the angle down and weld on both sides. Either way it would be strong, just that I think it would hang down less with the point down.

Jose

If you are not worried about originality you could rivet L angle to the bottom side and achieve equal or better strength than the depressions.