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Excitement Builds

I have been looking for a 7.5" rear axle and can get either 9 or 10" brakes and would like to upgrade rim diameter to 15" along with disc brakes. Has anybody used the 7.5 rear end and converted over to disc brakes and if so what size of rotor dia will work with 15" rims
 
I have also read that the 7.5 ford rear end will not handle 250HP for very long. I'm wondering if I'm not better with the 8.8. Has anybody installed the 8.8? Will it fit or is the housing too large and better going with 7.5 and beefing up carrier and get hardened axles to handle extra HP
 
Chris's 7.5.jpg Reg, The 7.5 is good for about 300HP. The 8.8 is good for about 500HP. In a light car maybe a little more. Here is a 7.5 we built for a MGB. That car has around 350HP. Ranger forum has info on Mustang rear disk swap.
 
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Reg from Canada said:
I have also read that the 7.5 ford rear end will not handle 250HP for very long. I'm wondering if I'm not better with the 8.8. Has anybody installed the 8.8 will if fit are is housing too large and better going with 7.5 and beefing up carrier and get hardened axles to handle extra HP
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Sounds perfect. If you will be able to develop 250 hp, it will be for a very sort period. The size rotor you can fit into 15" rims depends on the caliper used and wheel design.
Bill
 
260Alpine said:
Bill Blue used the Ranger Mazda M50D-R1 5 speed in his Alpine. He used a custom shifter to move it back further. One out of a 4.0 Ranger will bolt up to your Ranger 2.8. 2001-2011 HD would be best and has better ratios.
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I really liked the M5 transmission. Beware, it has its issues. It is bigger than the T5 and requires a slightly larger tunnel. It is also heavy, 90 lbs, ready for installation. The up side - easier installation than the T5. The fabricated remote shifter is the only special requirement. A ratio of 3.35 1st with a .80 5th, which is fine. All the clutch components, including the throwout are OEM Ranger and handled the 150 hp output with no issues. The stock Alpine clutch MC works fine, giving very easy clutch engagement. The fabricated shifter places the shifter exactly in the stock position, while the T5 places the shifter too far rearward with no easy repositioning. Without the remote shifter, the M5 places the shifter 6" farther forward. I found this to work okay, but consider the remote shifter a needed improvement.

edit Another positive. The stock Ranger throwout is contained in the bell housing, eliminating the bulge required when using T5 and clutch slave cylinder. Also, do not cheapen out when buying the 5M slave. The cheapies seem to last only about 25,000 miles, the good ones (about a hundred bucks) last forever.
Bill
 
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Reg from Canada said:
I have also read that the 7.5 ford rear end will not handle 250HP for very long. I'm wondering if I'm not better with the 8.8. Has anybody installed the 8.8 will if fit are is housing too large and better going with 7.5 and beefing up carrier and get hardened axles to handle extra HP
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Reg,

I admire your enthusiasm, but no one here has provided reputable / verifiable information to indicate that a naturally aspirated Ford 2.8 V6 street engine on pump gas can produce 200 HP, much less 250 or 300.

Perhaps it can be done, but as W. Edwards Deming said: "In God we trust. All others must bring data."
 
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Bill thank you for the info on 7.5
Barry I think I can get 200 reliable HP out of the 2.8 naturally aspirated I will let you know what it turns out with once finished.
 
Barry said:
Reg,

I admire your enthusiasm, but no one here has provided reputable / verifiable information to indicate that a naturally aspirated Ford 2.8 V6 street engine on pump gas can produce 200 HP, much less 250 or 300.

Perhaps it can be done, but as W. Edwards Deming said: "In God we trust. All others must bring data."
Click to expand...
 
Another thread details the directed efforts getting 140RWHP from an aggressive build. I know zero people who have heard of W. Edward Demming or his efforts to get American auto mfrs to adopt statistical process control to increase automotive reliability in the building stage. His advice found deaf ears among the Big 3, but the Japanese heard his message, adopted his philosophy, and handed us (and the English), our asses. At least what they taught me in B school. So good on you, Barry.
 
Well it been awhile since I posted anything, have been a little busy with a change of jobs, Christmas, new year hangover, etc. l have found a great machinist. 2.8 liter Block, heads, crank, and con rods have all checked out on the good side. Sourced some forged piston and rings for what will be a .030 over bore with a 9to1 compression. As I have had very little luck with finding a set of connecting rods I will start grinding stock rods within the next couple of days and then send back to machinist for shoot penning. Still discussing with machinist on how to grind crank, once that is determined then will complete that and get it shoot peened. In the mean time will de-bur the block. and Once pistons arrive back to the machinist for indexing, honing, boring, and decking.
Still looking for an Offy 4 barrel intake manifold. I have been put on waiting list for one at Racer Walsh, talking with a gentlemen there Offenhauser is approx 2 mouth away from manufacturing another batch. If anyone out there has one for sale please let me know as I would like to get on with porting the heads now that I have a nice looking set of headers from DanR. Heads will be going in shortly to have valves sizes rework for a set of 2.9 valves, and plugging and then tapping for additional bolting for headers. I have made contact with Tom Morana racing for a set of roller rockers just waiting on availability. I also saw on his web site that he makes a intake manifold for the 4.0 liter that allows use of 4 barrel carb and distributor.
 
Reg, What ratio for the roller rockers? If higher than stock you will have to cut down the top of the valve guides for more clearance with a high lift cam. Are you using the Racer Walsh stage 2 cam and valve springs? Don't forget the extra cooling holes in the heads. Morana also modifies a stock intake for 4 barrel for the 2.8. Their stuff is pretty expensive.
 
There is a choice of 3 ratio's 1.6:1, 1.7:1, and 1.8:1. stocks 1.5:1 so would probably not go much higher then the 1.6:1 ratio as I will use cam to make up lift/duration. I am thinking stage 2 but worried about vacuum in the low RPM range as Dan has mentioned, machinist (Brad) doesn't feel that it will be a problem. (Mind you he runs a quarter miler) so we are waiting on reply from Racer Walsh mechanic before finalizing choice. Brad can always custom grind if required or I can get a custom grind when buying cam from another supplier. Yes extra cooling holes are on the list. I don't like the intake from Morana racing not that its badly done just feel that its built for racing, and I'm looking for that 200hp build that can run all day with no issues. His stuff is a little expensive but when I factor in the cost of lifters and push rods that are included in the kit that I will have to buy anyways along with the machining cost of $250 to fix stock assembly it's only an extra $500 to add a roller set. And I believe that the $500 is Canadian dollars as to US so the exchange are lack of is working in my favor. New guides are also on list they will go in during porting by then I will know path with valve assembly as roller set is currently unavailable, if set does not become available then will work stock assembly to fix top oiling problem by honing out rocker (kit fixes this issue) and replace springs with spacers to increase durability. I would rather go with rollers and might decide to wait till one becomes available or I can find another. Or if I'm feeling rich(foolish) and can't wait any longer I will work stock valve assembly and get running and replace with rollers later at the cost of machining. Yes will be using Racer Walsh springs and retainers.
I have started to take a much more serious look at gaskets speaking of valve springs. At first I just ensured that gaskets and set where available. So if anyone has good info on gaskets and where to source please let me know. I'm aware of the dealers and the rock autos but for head gaskets it not like building your run of the mill LS where you can run down to the corner parts store. Would also love it if someone out there new of an Offy intake.
 
Hi Reg
I am also putting a 2.8 v6 in my alpine . I am using 7.5 rear axle out of an 1984 mustang gt. It comes with axles with the 4 on 4.25 bolt circle ,I needed new axles and was able to order new axles from rock auto , they had them in stock. The rear end is in and seem to clear everything. I have not used it yet because I am still waiting for my engine to be built.the axles did have to be shortened to fit.
 
Hi Jim
Sorry for the time delay .
To be honest I took the sunbeam rear end and the mustang rear end and told him to make it the same . I did stop by asked him how much he took out and he said about 5 inches a side . But the sunbeam is not in the center it is off set about 7/8 of an inch to one side so both axles are not the same length.
He did give me a copy of his hand drawing if you want it. I could e mail it to you if you like.
 
Thanks, I was just curious. I've narrowed the Ranger rear and know the Mustang is a lot wider. Did he send the axleshafts to Dutchman, Currie or Moser to be shortened? Did you cut off the top ears?
 
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It has been awhile since I have posted any news on build. I have been collecting parts with the intention of not tearing into car till I have the drive line completed and ready for install. So far parts for every thing except intake have been challenging to find but not impossible. Intake impossible. To date I have 80 to 90% of engine parts- forged 30 over piston 10 to1 compression with a .0040 deck clearance. (will be shaved 20 thou). Stock connecting rods and crank have been lighten and hardened will be balanced with pistons. Block has been deburred. I'm at present working on a custom built oil pan to improve windage (silly me started this after watching an episode engine masters on oil pans and cheap HP) I will also be changing out connecting and main studs to ARP. Heads are good no cracks. 2.9 valves on order as I will machine heads for larger valves, drill out for pre 1976 cooling ports and 4th header bolt along with plugging up emissions ports. Roller rocker kit from Tom Morana received and waiting to go on heads. This kit comes with Harland sharp rockers, hydraulic lifters, push rods, and custom machined pedestals to mate to stock heads. Yes I did say hydraulic lifters. This not only give rollers but also solves the poor oiling to the valve train. Cam is from Racer Walsh stage 1 but with roller kit at 1:6 to1 will actually come out equal to stage 2 give or take. I don't want it to be too lumpy.
Transmission will be a T5. Through my countless hours going to swap meets 0 to 5 hours drive away from my place of residence looking for intake I came across a fine gentlemen that is friends with my machinist that I have/will source transmission from. The idea is to get engine built take some measurement once installed and then pull one out of scrap yard that best suites placement of shifter build it and install.
The rear end came out of a Ford Thunderbird super coupe. 8.8 limited slip with 3:70 gears it will need to narrowed.
Due to the impossible task of finding an Offy intake manifold I have started to look at alternatives. I few things I have looked at is getting stock intake modified to accept a 4 barrel, stick with stock 2BBL manifold and go with EFI, or source a European intake eg. 6 pack of Webbers. No matter the option chosen port matching will be done.
Sounds like today impossible has been achieved. I received word on an Offy intake. This is great news for me and has me reaching out to Brad (machinist) to get engine back into shop for machining and final short block assemble.
 
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