Yes. It has the spacer. I dont believe it's a manifold issue at all. In the next few weeks I'll change the coil and get the mixture dialed in, up the rpms and such.
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Engine stalling
- Thread starter Paul67
- Start date
I bought the manifold maybe 2 years ago and the car has had very very little use. Had a long chat with Jerome at Alpine Innovations and sent a picture over. I believe that it's an issue other than the carb and manifold. Most likely electrical. He makes really great stuff and has many happy customers. I'm a little embarrassed that a thread about my car stalling perhaps suggests some other situation. I can't recommend him strongly enough!!
I am.
mxp01
Platinum Level Sponsor
Do you live in a hot climate? If this is happening once the engine reaches operating temperature you could be experiencing vapor lock in the fuel system. If you have the mechanical pump with the glass bulb this is easy to check, once the engine stalls out check to see it there is any fuel in the glass. If you don't see fuel it could be evaporating and causing vapor lock.
I experienced this years ago during hot Tennessee summers, especially driving around town. I would stall at traffic lights during engine idle and the car would not start until the engine cooled. My way around it was to pour water on the fuel pump and I could see the fuel fill the glass immediately. I ditched the mechanical pump the next summer and went electric.
I experienced this years ago during hot Tennessee summers, especially driving around town. I would stall at traffic lights during engine idle and the car would not start until the engine cooled. My way around it was to pour water on the fuel pump and I could see the fuel fill the glass immediately. I ditched the mechanical pump the next summer and went electric.
I know out of personal experience that Jerome is a very helpful person, so your post has not given me another impression. Regarding the PCV take of the problem is that the oil fumes disturb the gas mixture. If the hole for the take off was positioned more in the middle of the manifold the oil fumes should be more spread over the 4 cylinders while now it is exessively having influence on one cylinder. The later versions of this manifold have this hole closed. I run this Weber conversion on a 1965 Sunbeam Rapier Series 4 and it is superb!!!
So a quick update. I managed to get out for a spin. I upped the idle to 1000 rpm from 850. No stalling issues. I'll swap out the coil when I get a chance and perhaps go electronic ignition.
It will still drop RPMs a little at some stops but being higher it only drops momentarily to around 850 then back up. Before when set at 850 it would drop into stalling territory.
It will still drop RPMs a little at some stops but being higher it only drops momentarily to around 850 then back up. Before when set at 850 it would drop into stalling territory.
After I found the fault with the PCV oulet my Rapier still had sometimes the stalling problem and it looked very much like you have described it i.e. it stalled when set on 850 RPM and disappeared when set on 1000 RPM. The solution was as follows: set the idle screw when the engine is totally warm and when setting do this at one quarter turn of the idle screw at the time. On top of that wait a minute before further turning the idle screw after you have turned it. It takes a little more time that way but the result is that my engine is now turning happily at 850 RPM without any stalling.
Regards,
Peter
Durhamguy
Platinum Level Sponsor
These comments may or may not be of help but my SIV had same problems. Was running twin Stromberg's which were in need of a restoration. I decided to buy Jerome's Weber kit. Still had problems as you describe after installing it. I replaced the ignition points, cap, wires, plugs, condenser etc. Engine ventilation is vented to the ground. Added one-way fuel line value and routed fuel line around engine bay. It starts well but needs to be run to close to warm up before driving and then ticks over nicely but prior to warm up it will stall.
nsbluenose
Silver Level Sponsor
When you are stopped, say for a red light, do you keep the car in gear with the clutch depressed or slip the transmission into neutral with the clutch out? Keeping the car in gear while stopped will lower your rpms (my car does) while shifting to neutral with clutch out does not reduce rpms. This helps reduce stalling plus the added benefit of less clutch wear. Webers also like a constant, low fuel pressure, mine works really good with a low pressure electric fuel pump, 2.5-4 psi.
I understand some time has passed but I never did answer thus question. Yes I take it out of gear as I approach a stop for the reason you mentioned.
I thought I had updated this thread. I upped the RPM to 1000 and had no further issues. Car has since sat due to bad weather and obligations. Turned the ignition a few days ago and it locked in the crank position even when returned. Had to disconnect battery. So perhaps a bad ignition switch was also partly to blame? I'll update in a future post. Thanks for the replies.