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Cyle Head

Mike Berger

Donation Time
Hello I am new a new member and I would like to ask a question about the rear plug with the square socket drive hole at the back of the cyl head? Has anyone taken this out, with all the discussion of rear cooling issuses would it be good to get it off to better clean and inspect.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hmmm. I'l be eager to see any replies. I had a problem with #4 cylinder , probably from overheating. I did carefuly clean out the block at the rear. Now why didn't I think to remove that plug on the rear of the head??!!

Tom
 

tom o

Donation Time
I tried to take mine out, but i didn't have the power to do it, so i left it in so as not to wreck something. I believe it is there as a casting hole.
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
the cylinder head plug

Try to get that s.o.b out! The square hole in the plug is 9/16 and I don't know anyone who has a drive to fit that. So I shimmed up a 1/2 bar, 2 feet long, belted it with a hammer, then stood on it, and couldn't budge it. If anyone has any ideas about how to free it up, I'd like to hear about it.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Were I you, I would not worry about getting that plug out. You can adequately clean the head without doing so, and given the bivalent corrosion between the iron and the alloy, the chances are if you do get it out you'll do some serious damage on the way to doing so.

The problem with Alpine engines overheating is not with the head anyway. The problem is that the coolant flows too slowly at the back of the block and the slow moving coolant let's junk settle out in the jacket, effectively silting the block up and developing a thick, hard cake in the jacket. Remove the block's freeze plugs and thoroughly clean it out... particularly the ones at the very back of the block... very likely you'll find an inch or more of crud back there.

Of course, the other reason they overheat and we see damage to the #4 chambers so often is that on later heads instead of taking the hot water from the absolute back of the head (where the old cooling outlet was) they take it from about 1/2 way in the middle of the head, and this leaves kind of a 'dead' area at the back of the head where the water doesn't really 'flow'. The only cure I know of is to either install a head with that rear coolant port, or drill your head and install one.

Another reason they don't flow well is that very often you'll find pieces of casting flash in the cooling jacket. I found one in mine, and it was a solid lump about 1/3 the size of my palm, and 3/8" thick!

imikhz.jpg
 

65beam

Donation Time
head

i'll say it again. i have never had an alpine overheat. keep your radiator clean and use clean coolant at a 50/50 blend and a good thermostat. when the series 4 was one of my daily drivers i worried more about it running too cool. i needed heat on the 35 mile drive to work.
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
Sure, I have removed ALL the steel parts in the head and bead blasted them to remove all the corrosion that occurred over 50 years. Use some heat and a long handle wrench....:D
Jan
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
the cylinder head plug

Jumpin jan says it will come out, Puff4 says you'll butcher the casting doing so and so you should pry out the freezer plugs. Man, I'm glad we have a consensus. Anyway, I've had some steel into casting items that were tough to free up, but a torch, some penetrating oil and some grunt and eventually it would break it loose. Let's see, am I feelin lucky?
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
Well, I didn't say it would be easy. Some come out; Some don't want to. If its really corroded, you may strip the aluminum threads out. Of course, you need a lot of leverage and a good fixture to hold the head somehow. Its a judgment call on how far to go.
Jan
 
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