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Cut down motor mount in Series V


Donation Time
I'm converting my single circuit braking system to a dual circuit, but the intake manifold strikes the brake master cylinder. I plan to reduce the height/thickness of a motor mount but am unsure of the best way to do it.

Anybody have a suggestion?

Chuck Edwards


Platinum Level Sponsor

I only see three possibilities:

1. Modify the mounting bracket that is attached to the front of the engine.
2. Modify the engine mount tower that is welded to the front suspension crossmember.
3. Modify the "rubber motor mount" (SS part # A1201437).​

I have not cut open an Alpine "rubber motor mount", but typical rubber motor mounts have interlocking metal parts molded into the rubber and there is no way to reduce the thickness (only 1" for the Alpine mount) without destroying the part.

You might be able to find a thin "hockey puck" style rubber biscuit and use it in place of the standard Rootes "rubber motor mount". I suspect that doing so would result in increased Noise / Vibration / Harshness.

The Alpine engine is supported at three points (the two front mounts and the transmission mount) and reducing the height of only one mount may not lower the engine by very much.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Standard manifold?

Would a different carb setup produce enough room? Not sure what you have.

Is there a particular feature that interferes on your chosen master cylinder that may be elsewhere on a different model fitment? If it's the reservoir, can you rig a remote reservoir?

Other admittedly wacky options if dropping by an inch doesn't do it:

You might be able to cheat the engine forward a small amount, by using re-drilled motor mounts, offset plates, or the like. Transmission mount may accommodate spacers at the transmission-to-plate location. But I don't know if 1/2" or 3" would be required to clear things if moving forward. If it turns out to be 3", for sure you won't achieve that unless you ditch the fan and do other extreme surgery. The driveshaft will allow a little movement, but not 3", although a spacer at the diff may let your preserve some travel.

Another place to look is the master cylinder. I've seen some with 1 1/2" thick mounting ears. 3/4" would probably do fine, so if the ears are thick you could mill away some thickness and have it hug the firewall better.

If the body of the master cylinder is pretty long, you could mount the ears inside the car instead of outside. Cut the firewall hole in a vertical "ovaled-diamond" to clear master cylinder ears, and install the master by inserting it clocked 90 degrees, and then turning upright once inside. The bolts won't care. Lots of other firewall items will have to be removed temporarily, and new pushrod fabricated. Do some measurements/calculations on pushrod length, throw, and what inside mods would be needed to accommodate this. I would think there's a 5% chance there would be enough room in the vicinity of the pedal hangers to pull this off. I haven't been under the dash in 3 years, so confidence is low.

The thing to remember is these last two are decidedly inelegant, and tear up your car. Definitely not "leave no trace" mods.


Diamond Level Sponsor
JUst remember clearances are tight, moving one a bit causes less clearance some where else and in more than one area usually.

Have you settled on the replacement part yet? If not, POST a pic or part number and let some of our SAOCA Guru's have a look.

They may have already resolved what you are attempting to accomplish.



Donation Time
look at previous posts under "duel circuit brakes" you may find a better cylinder such as the nissan f10 will be a better option.