Hi Eddie,
If you´ve done the tunnel widening, then you are half way there. I will give you the steps to follow. Have you removed the sheetmetal mounting brackets from the front crossmember? If you have, then you can follow the listed steps.
1) Install the transmission and bellhousing, with the transmission support crossmember, from under the car. Support the front of the transmission with a jack under the bellhousing.
2) Put the engine in from on top and bolt it to the bellhousing on the transmission. Do not put the clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel at this time, because it will make it harder to put the engine in.
3) Once the two are bolted together in the car, put the headers on and begin moving the engine back to where you get about .060" clearance from the header to the tie rod end on the passenger side. Make sure you turn the steering wheel left and right, to make sure the tie rod clears the header, as it swings by. Now you can tighten the transmission mount, so the assembly will not slide forward again.
4) When you have the correct amount of clearance to the tie rod end, you can now move the engine so you get about the same amount of clearance on each side of the engine. I recommend denting the frame rail on the passenger side about 3/4", to give a little more room on that side.
5) Now take a scribe or other marking tool and mark the crossmember through the holes in the motor mounting brackets.
6) Now remove the engine and drill two holes, just a little bit bigger than the size of the large nut that is welded to the thick washer.
7) Once you have drilled the holes, place the thick washer on the crossmember, with the nut sitting in the hole, and you can now weld around the washer to finish making your motor mounting holes.
8) Now you can put the clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel.
9) You can now put the engine in for the last time. When you put the headers and gaskets on, I recommend using Loctite Blue on the header bolts. if you use Loctite, you won´t need to retighten the header bolts time after time.
10) When you put the headers on, you can tighten the bolts that that are in line with the ports. The two bolts that are on the top, shouldn´t be tightened too much, because the header will rock up and you will get a leak from the bottom. The two top bolts can even be left out, and the headers will seal fine.
11) You will need a heavy duty three row core installed into your stock Alpine radiator shell. Your stock radiator won´t cut it.
12) Once you have the engine and transmission in the car, you can measure the distance from the transmission tail housing to the rear end pinion yoke. With this measurement, your machinist can cut you a shaft that will fit perfectly.
These are the basic instructions and the rest of the conversion is pretty simple too. I hope this helps you. Don´t feel daunted; I´m here to help you through the whole process.
Jose
I have Jose's V6 kit but is there anywhere I can get the complete list if instructions for the V6 install. I have the tunnel widening artical by Jim Ellis and some photos of the motor mount work but no real order to instructios and from what I can tell you have to have the transimission mounted and then "test" fit the engine before welding on the mounts.
A little overwhelmed by it all right now and really wondering if I took on too much but determined to get his all done.
