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Clayton Dewandre -Another messy one...

Limey

Donation Time
OK..I'll try and get you the original Rootes mixing codes - these tell you what colours went into the mix, not just the final colour code and what flake size and ratio etc
 

65beam

Donation Time
Regardless of potential judgement criteria all I'm trying is get as close as we can get for the colour with the aid of some "knowing" people in here. Don't expect it, but if somebody has an early NOS dashboard lying around - even better. The archive may have a drawing with a colour description so will check it next time I'll be there.

P.S. I also have an original RHD HLM dashboard here where the Formica has split as they all do, but that's totally another story...
I pulled out another HLM dash yesterday that has the formica loose so I'll check it out to see what the original paint looks like or did it all the paint get sanded off by Harrington. The shop working on my current project may be able to scan the paint if there is enough of it left. The glue used to install the formica may create a problem.
 

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
Oliver, that would be fantastic to have the dash color mix formula you used. I think the photo I provided of an original Series II dash has a very accurate color. Do you have a photo of your dash you would be willing to share here?

Based on the dash photo ( it appears to be in very good original condition) I provided of a "for sale" original Series II. I am inclined to buy the nonworking car. It includes used overdrive transmission, radio, and clock. Unbeknownst to the owner a later Series front clip has been attached.
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Thanks. It might be worthwhile to note that the interior has been redone in leather since I was never really satisfied with the vinyl repros being offered for the early series...
 

Limey

Donation Time
Hi Bernd,

I gave ordered the 50 of each of 2 screw sizes for the CDWs and the spring washers that goes with them They will be with me mid Jan becauseone of them is special order.
Here is my order if you want to copy me (or wait until mid Jan so I can check what I've ordered (although I am sure that the order is correct)

Oliver
 

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Limey

Donation Time
Hi Bernd,

Yesterday and today I stripped down a newly purchased CDW. It came from a TR4 owner (They were a rare extra for these Triumphs).

I have to say that slowly striping a CDW is very relaxing. All my stress went away.

However I have a question. How do you remove this part the best way?

Thanks

Oliver

IMG_2146.JPG
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Oliver, I always try to grab that little washer with needle nosed pliers on one of the legs. Haven't developed a better method yet. If it gets bent a bit no problem you can straighten the washer easily once it's free. Yes indeed it's very relaxing to work on those CDWs. Especially if the weather is so bad as it is currently...

Oops, very nice offer for the screws, thanks. Let me know what I can do for you in return...
 

Limey

Donation Time
Oliver, I always try to grab that little washer with needle nosed pliers on one of the legs. Haven't developed a better method yet.

Hi Bernd

I refer to the hex item in the bore. Is it floating? Or just stuck by all the grot around it? It seems a very tight fit and I fear scarring the bore.
 

Limey

Donation Time
Hi Bernd,
These are today's pics of cleaning the 1962 CDW I bought last week. Unlike the last one which was a dirty NOS, this one is from a scrapped Triumph and was very dirty with scabbed corrosion and as bad as any you will find. This was the real test but the Alubright and a litlle bit of OOOO wire wool did the trick.

I have just bought a second hand industrial 3ltr ultrasound bath for £225 from Germany (Is £1200 new) and Aluminum cleaner that works at 80 degrees centigrade. I am hoping for even better results

IMG_2113.JPG IMG_2130.JPG IMG_2123.JPG IMG_2131.JPG IMG_2139.JPG
 
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bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
The hex washer is not floating. It's being held by the six tabs spreading against the bore wall. The grot collecting over the years will even hold it more firmly in place. In same cases corrosion adds to it. A little WD40 will help. Pull it out as stated...
 

Limey

Donation Time
Thanks. So it jusy a friction fit. I didn't want to get stuck in without knowing. Your fillister screws will be one their way;)
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Correct. Thanks in advance for the filister screws...
Just noted that your latest CDW was manufactured in June/62. Need to compare with mine. Great cleaning job...
 
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Limey

Donation Time
Hi Bernd

I have good big and small diaphragms but where do I get the other seals such as the one on the main piston and the tiny ones inside the secondary chamber?
 

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
I really like the exchanges between Limey and Bernd on the CDW. I didn't mean to run a parallel thread on the Series II dash color. But it seems to be working for everyone.

I just had my paint guy match two known original Series II dash parts in very good original condition. The steering column cover plate and a very rare plug for the heat adjustment slot (#41 Sebring Alpine did not need heat adjustment). These dash components appear to be very close in color to David's dash photo and the photo I attached earlier. I'm now going to repaint #41's dash to match. What I can do Bernd is paint and send a sample piece to you. This mix has very fine metallic.
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Jerry, yes we enjoy to dig into these "special areas". No problem to extend the original thread a bit, even there may be concerns from some hardliners in here. If you are close to original dashboard colour appreciate to receive your sample. Hope you still have my a address stored somewhere :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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