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Chips and Dips and Dings.....

the_elder_rocker

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi Folks- Here we are at the mind-numbing part. Chasing chips, dips and dings in preparation for paint. There's a reason that bodywork is expensive- it's tedious! Getting it smoothed out though, better with every stroke of the sanding block! Wanted to shakedown run it to town a few times but my insurance company frowns on cars that are taken down for paint. The nerve of those guys! If only this car was white or red- anything but black.
 

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Hi Folks- Here we are at the mind-numbing part. Chasing chips, dips and dings in preparation for paint. There's a reason that bodywork is expensive- it's tedious! Getting it smoothed out though, better with every stroke of the sanding block! Wanted to shakedown run it to town a few times but my insurance company frowns on cars that are taken down for paint. The nerve of those guys! If only this car was white or red- anything but black.
Rocker
looking good
Keep at it with a 16" rigid block.
If you take it to 320 this will leave a great base for your sealer.
I would recommend a guide coat to make sure you get all the earlier scratches.
You can check my earlier post on the 67 progress
Cheers
 
Thanks for the support! This car looks like it was ready for paint long ago then sat. With stuff piled on it by the dings in the hood and deck lid. And stuff banging into the sides. Kind of the usual for a stalled project. It's coming along though- hitting it a couple of hours every evening then a good flog on Sundays. Interrupted by lawn mowing and weed spraying this time of year, of course!
 
Most policies contain a separate amount for parts from the car. More than one has called me looking for parts after a car was out of the garage for other work while apart and that's was when a loss occurred. The boiler plate amount in a standard policy is 750 which doesn't buy much. Never heard back about the MK2 owner who's car was on trailer outside of the house and next morning truck and trailer gone.
I know it is a side bar to a paint job.... don't ask about care custody and control....
 
Good info Warren. I've been using JC Taylor for many years. Through a very small agency that also handles my farm policy, rental houses and "regular" cars and bikes. The rules are somewhat quirky but I just go along and get along. They've done me a good job and are there even through the frequent hail storms we get here. I will have a closer look at the fine print on the policy though, might find a workaround for when one is not quite there yet.
Thanks!
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS
 
No kidding. It didn't hurt 20 years ago! While sanding away I think of people who pay to go to a gym to get this kind of exercise! I'm getting it for free! Bonus- I can wear the oldest, raggediest shop clothes I have while doing it. It beats sitting around watching reruns of reruns of reruns.
And that's today's masterclass in rationalization. Still don't like bodywork though.
 
400 grit wet sanding the body. Found a couple of waves/ripples I couldn't live with. A little skim, a little primer, and more sanding! My brain hurts.
 

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Funny, while I was cleaning the paint gun the radio station played "Back In Black". I laughed and laughed.
 

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Hi Folks- Traded Chips, Dips and Dings for chasing Dirt and Orange Peel. Sanded up to 2000 grit yesterday. Looking at 3000 from here on. I got a fever! The only cure is..... More Sanding! Still not over the moon about the hood (bonnet), It's driver good, but I've been looking for an excuse to justify a hood scoop. Humm...... Maybe "Since I need to mix paint to respray the hood, might as well paint a scoop too? Thus ends today's class on automotive rationalization.
 
400 grit is a bit too harsh on new paint. It'll take a lot longer to get scratches out. You should start with
an 800 grit if the panel has a lot of defects, then go lighter, 1500, 2000. 3000 and then buff. You'll be amazed
how much quicker it get better.
 
o_O Oh My! No no no. 400 is for primer. 600 if I'm using base/clear. This one got single-stage enamel with hardener. ***Controversial Viewpoint Coming*** I like the look of enamel on 60s cars- they shouldn't look like a lollypop. ***Disclaimer*** Unless metallics are involved. Anyway- I usually start color sanding with 1000 unless there's some really bad flaws, them work up to 3000, then wool pad buff with tuff cut or similar, then foam pad with clearcoat-grade fine polish. Owned a detail shop in my youth and I really like the Pro products. Meguiars is good as well.
 
Elder,
I highly recommend Kovax paper.
Super Assilex up to 1500. Buflex up to 3000.
It cuts faster than conventional paper and doesn't leave close to the scratches.
Only use this dry. The build up cleans up with the swipe of a microfiber cloth.
Expensive and well worh it. youll use much less paper and get a better finish.
Believe me, I learned the hard way.
 
Never heard of Kovax. Looked around about it this morning and it looks like some really good stuff. Super Buflex 3000 grit isn't outrageously priced at all at 50-60 bucks per 50 sheet pack. I'm still burning through my supply of 3M paper, and have just used some 3000 grit foam that I bought locally yesterday. That stuff is awesome! Tech marches on. Thanks again for the tip- when it's time to restock my fine grits I'll surely be looking to run the Kovax.
 
my recommendation is dont use your existing paper. The finish will not be the same due the way the Kovax cuts. its really worth it.
Im using it exclusively on the new walnut dashes.
 
Coming along. Paint has been cut/open for a week to allow hardener to completely activate/ dry off all solvents, time to buff this weekend. Been fitting a few shiny trinkets in the evenings.
 

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