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Can't get '67 Alpine started!!! Please Help!!!

Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by clockman666, Aug 27, 2020.

  1. Barry

    Barry Platinum Level Sponsor

  2. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Yes, probably 20-30 psi. Still low, but high enough it should run.

  3. Tim R

    Tim R Silver Level Sponsor

    In my humble opinion you have been lucky that the engine did not start. If you find pieces of metal in the sump they have come from somewhere and if it had started it may well have wrecked the entire engine. If it was my car I would pull the engine out, strip it right down and measure (or have measured) the main bearings, big ends and bore and check over the camshaft, followers and oil pump. Then I would rebuild it with new gaskets throughout.
    For specialist measurement or machine jobs use a local engine reconditions, most of the work you will be able to do yourself. If you start the engine without doing this you are asking for trouble.

    This step by step video shows how even someone with very little mechanical knowledge can rebuild an Alpine engine to a high standard.

    Tim R
  4. alpine_64

    alpine_64 Donation Time

    You wont get the correct compression reading without WOT ... 2 things i would worry about with your issue.

    1. Very big difference in compression between cylinders. Implying there are potential issues.

    2. As eric mentioned early on.. The motor ran without oil psi... Even if the issue was caused by a temporary blockage... The bearings msy have been starved and damaged... If you heard a loud ticking or knocking at that time.. They were getting a hard time.
  5. clockman666

    clockman666 Donation Time

    Hi, sorry for the delay in my response, between my kids, and the wife I never get to use the computer at home. I appreciate all of you helping me with this! So I redid the compression test with the throttle wide open, all the plugs out and I got about 5 psi more on each cyl. So now I'm at 12o, 125, 145, and 145. The engine did knock for just a few seconds before I pulled over to the side of the road and shut it off. But I haven't had it started since then. So you guys think I need to rebuild the engine?
  6. sunalp

    sunalp Platinum Level Sponsor

    At the very least you should drop the oil pan and see what's in there. You can also
    pull the rod caps and have a look at the bearings to see if they are OK or not. If you
    had a knock, you'll find one of the caps ( probably #2 or #3) is loose. Those two generally
    get starved for oil. If that's the case you're in for a rebuild and some crankshaft work.

    Hope that helps.
  7. JSLoeffl

    JSLoeffl Gold Level Sponsor

    FYI for those doing compression tests with the Series V with dual Strombergs. You must hold the throttles wide open, and also you must prop open the air valve assemblies. There is almost a 20 lb difference.
    Example on my #4 cylinder: 1st test only throttles open - 165# 2nd test throttles open and air valves propped open - 181#
    As you can see there is quite a difference..........
  8. hartmandm

    hartmandm Moderator Platinum Level Sponsor

    The WSM does not indicate you should prop the air valve open during a compression test. So I think your pressure result is 165, which you then compare against original pressures of 175/185, and not 181.

    An engine in good condition should give the compression pressures given in the Data Section under "Engine General". These pressures should be taken at starter cranking speed with the throttle held fully open, all sparking plugs removed and the engine hot. If readings are obtained substantially below these quoted, the engine concerned is in need of attention to the valves or piston rings, or possibly requires reboring.

  9. JSLoeffl

    JSLoeffl Gold Level Sponsor

    Sorry Mike, I disagree. My engine has about 1000 miles on a rebuild. Good valves and no blow by. What good does opening the throttles wide open do when the air valves are closed choking the air down to nothing! May as well not even open the throttle as no air can get past the air valves anyway. No air induced, less air to compress. Just my 2 cents. With the Weber carbs, you don't open the throttle and put the choke on do you? Just saying Manuals are not always correct for all versions of engine/carb combinations.
  10. alpine_64

    alpine_64 Donation Time

    Ive always done compression test at WOT and plugs out.
  11. RootesRacer

    RootesRacer Donation Time

    Standard test procedure is to hold throttles wide open, whether plugs are removed or not just determines how long you need to crank before the pressure hits max, you can see this visually by watching the gauge while cranking.
    "Big" cam engines will also have lower pressures due to cam overlap, so in this case you are looking for cyl/cyl consistency rather than high compression pressures. My "big" cam 11/1 CR 1725 only made 140psi on the compression test and that's alright.
    beamdream likes this.
  12. RootesRooter

    RootesRooter Platinum Level Sponsor

    The wide difference in pressures makes me think broken ring(s).
  13. RootesRacer

    RootesRacer Donation Time

    Or valve issues.
  14. todd reid

    todd reid Gold Level Sponsor

    Two adjacent cylinders reading low could also point to a head gasket.

    RootesRooter likes this.

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