• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Bonnet cable repair

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
Has anyone repaired the cable on the bonnet release of a Series V ,Tiger Mk1A or MK2? Want to fix the one on a Mk2, the replacement one is short and needs to be about 1/2” longer.
 

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
Has anyone repaired the cable on the bonnet release of a Series V ,Tiger Mk1A or MK2? Want to fix the one on a Mk2, the replacement one is short and needs to be about 1/2” longer.
You may not be interested in switching but I replaced my cable with a rod from an earlier series car that I picked up off of eBay.
I feel more confident in the rod than I did in the cable.
 

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
As Tod says it is a good idea to replace the cable with the earlier style rod release if you can. Whether you keep the cable or not it is a good idea to add a safety wire as a back up. If the cable snaps with the hood closed it is a real pain.
Tim R

 

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
It seems that most have been trimmed, but the hood latch pawl or jaw on the secondary latch deserves attention. The one on the spring should get a cutting down on its edge. Good posting as one of the rites of passage in Sunbeam world is too often the stuck hood.
 

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
Thanks Tod & Tim for the reply. I have changed over the SV and have more early style available. The safety wire is a good backup on ether style. Pulled the old cable apart to see if it could be changed to at least keep the pull. The cable appears to be held in by a pin, has anyone repaired one?
Al
 

Attachments

  • 2EBDD95E-90A2-430A-86BF-C06E2E7C0E70.jpeg
    2EBDD95E-90A2-430A-86BF-C06E2E7C0E70.jpeg
    374.7 KB · Views: 48
  • 32D98615-1493-4346-B921-3BAEDCF30661.jpeg
    32D98615-1493-4346-B921-3BAEDCF30661.jpeg
    277.8 KB · Views: 46

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
It seems that most have been trimmed, but the hood latch pawl or jaw on the secondary latch deserves attention. The one on the spring should get a cutting down on its edge. Good posting as one of the rites of passage in Sunbeam world is too often the stuck hood.
Warren, can you provide more details on what you are suggesting? What are you trying to accomplish? Where?
 

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
The latch that is on the post with the spring is much larger than it needs to be. I'll take a picture when I back with a car.
 

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
Ah, I'm glad that is what you are talking about. Yes, I've had quite a few attempts to try to get it to release when the bonnet handle is pulled fully. It worked fine on my very late SV with cable. Then when I switched to the earlier rod, I could never seem to get it to work right. I do have a few of the main latches and secondary latches and I see that there were different ones. I've played with them to see which work the best. I think the one I have now does - but not as well as it worked with the original late SV. So I'm very interested in seeing what you have.
 

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
The latch that is on a S1 hood does have a relief curve stamped in it where the SV does not (straight edge). Is that what Warren is referring to?
I did notice that the cable is crimped in the handle slot, going to drill the crimps out and pull the wire out to see if it can be replaced.
Doing this on the bad cable pull so good way to find out if it can be done. Thanks for all the responses.-Al
 

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
Ohh. Thanks for posting. I was thinking you were cutting down the "finger." Yes, when I tried to solve this the last time, I found that of the ones I had, one was noticeably shorter. Actually, it sort of had a curved edge - concave relative to the direction the finger came from. That's what I have on now. I will see if I can safely make it a bit shorter.
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
There is a risk with the hood latch pawl/jaw under the spring & nut. I don't know why they put one there, but it can be a huge problem!!! I removed mine after it was not releasing the bonnet with a full pull on the interior release handle.
Jan
 

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
IMG_3547.JPG IMG_3546.JPG Here's the pic of the S1 with a relief on the "paw". Looks like it was not ground in. The SV is straight across.
 

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
I went to inspect mine. I realized that my prior change of the latch took care of this problem. When I pull the release, it always pulls it far enough so that the finger is pulled beyond the latch.

My problem is actually that the spring is not lifting the bonnet up high enough to clear. So I actually have to hold the release while I manually lift it, then release the pull.

So either my spring is weak or I have it compressed too far. Thoughts on the best way to set the spring compression?
 
Last edited:
Top