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Best oil type for a 1966 Series V 1725 with a Weber Conversion

SierraNev

Diamond Level Sponsor
Greetings,

I will be attempting a tune up and oil change on my recent purchase this weekend.

Odometer shows 5000 + miles, but I am sure this has been turned over.

The car runs well, with the occasional stalls at red lights.

I have no history on the car before I purchased it. Only the little nuggets I discover here and there

I consulted the manual and with a very knowledgeable sales person at Auto Zone.

What make and type of motor oil should I use?

Any preferences?

Much appreciated

Sunbeam Newby

Emmett Cassidy
ASeries2@aol.com
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi, Emmett. You've touched the third rail of classic car ownership... what oil to use. There are as many opinions on that subject as there are sphincters in this big world.

My take: Any good quality 20w-50 oil, preferably one that has adequate ZDDP. Castrol Classic XL, Lucas Classic & Hot Rod Oil, any of the non-synthetic Brad Penn oils or even Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil will do. Just avoid a fully synthetic oil - older engines generally leak like a sieve after you use it.

[Sitting here with a bag of popcorn, waiting for the show....]
 

SierraNev

Diamond Level Sponsor
So Walmart online said they had the oil in stock. In person not so much

I found Valvoline VR1 20W50 with High Zinc

I this what I am looking for?

Thanks

Emmett
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Diesel oils hit every benchmark. While zinc may be a necessary component of satisfactory oils, high zinc levels are not.
Bill
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
As Puff says, there are many, many opinions on this topic and if you search the archives of this forum you will find some heated 'discussions' in the past. However, there is general agreement that you do want either an oil with ZDDP or to use a ZDDP additive. As Bill points out, one economical way to get ZDDP is via diesel oil like Shell Rotella. Personally, I have been using the Valvoline racing oil for quite a while, but that is only because they had a promotion several years ago where you could get a 100% rebate on a case. It was limited to one case per household, but I bought one at home, one at the office, my assistant at the time bought one, my parents bought one...
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
As Puff says, there are many, many opinions on this topic and if you search the archives of this forum you will find some heated 'discussions' in the past. However, there is general agreement that you do want either an oil with ZDDP or to use a ZDDP additive. As Bill points out, one economical way to get ZDDP is via diesel oil like Shell Rotella. Personally, I have been using the Valvoline racing oil for quite a while, but that is only because they had a promotion several years ago where you could get a 100% rebate on a case. It was limited to one case per household, but I bought one at home, one at the office, my assistant at the time bought one, my parents bought one...

Jim,

Any idea about shelf life? :) Use by date? :eek:

But seriously, I still have part of a case of Union 76 20W-50 Racing oil packed in the old, round cardboard cans. I doubt the oil suffers much but I have wondered about the additive package. Do the additives degrade or even settle out due to long term storage?

Information for inquiring minds possibly never to be expounded upon. :oops:
 
Last edited:

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Good questions. I have absolutely no idea, but thought I heard once that a sealed can/bottle was basically good forever. someone else may know better. It is a shame we lost our oil expert, but I have no regrets on that front. :)
 

SierraNev

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thank you all for the info.

Many more questions in the future and I get this project moving along

Best regards,

Emmett
 

65sunbeam

SAOCA Membership Director
Diamond Level Sponsor
"Any idea about shelf life? :) Use by date? :eek:

But seriously, I still have part of a case of Union 76 20W-50 Racing oil packed in the old, round cardboard cans. I doubt the oil suffers much but I have wondered about the additive package. Do the additives degrade or even settle out due to long term storage?"

Don I just bought two cases of Castrol 20/50 that have 1 quart plastic bottles and are around 20 years old. I opened one bottle and poured it into a clear glass beaker and saw no signs of any sediment. Changed the oil in two cars with it and running fine!
Wish we could still buy the ZDDP loaded Castrol today. I now use Valvoline VR1 20W50.
Eric
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
I never understood why people use 20w/50 oil (multi-viscosity) in the Alpine engine. That's an all-season oil to include the winter and 50 viscosity in the summer??? Thats TOO MUCH. Seriously, all one needs is 30W oil and you will be better off!
Jan
 

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
No, but there is no need for "high Zinc". 1,000 ppm will give the same protection as 3,000 ppm.

Bill

You can get Costco (Kirkland) 15-40 Diesel oil with 1400 ppm zinc for $12 a gallon. Of course you buy in bulk - 3 gallons for $35.99.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
I would add the following for the original poster.... The carb setup doesnt matter for the oil choice.. The only time a carb impacts oil choice is if its running very rich and can wash down bores and dilute the oil... Not good.. Otherwise all the above advice is good re minimum 1000ppm zddp and an oil that is not synthetic.

As a side note... Make sure you get an oil filter with a drain back valve...
I personally swap filters with my oil... They are cheap.. We dont do many miles.. So why not just always have the freshest system for the sake of $10
 
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