Antifreeze, Antifreeze, EVERYWHERE!

[hartmandm]

The water temperature gauges are pretty reliable. The temperature sender or voltage regulator is more likely to fail than the gauge. Why do you think the gauge is suspect?

There is some gauge troubleshooting info here: http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/fuel & temp gauges.pdf

Mike

 

[Scotty]

The water temperature gauges are pretty reliable. The temperature sender or voltage regulator is more likely to fail than the gauge. Why do you think the gauge is suspect?

There is some gauge troubleshooting info here: http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/fuel & temp gauges.pdf

Mike

I feel the gauge is suspect because I have to tap it sometimes to get it to move. I literally just put in a new VS and both gauges do work but the temp one lags like I said. Considering seeing how to take it apart and clean it, maybe there's some sort of debris on it or somesuch, the car did sit for a while. I borrowed a friend's infrared thermometer today and the numbers it was coming up with when idling and driving around the car port are about spot on with what the gauge is picking up.

 

[Scotty]

It shouldn't make any difference in cooling, but how 'mis-aligned' is the Hitachi alternator? Is the belt 'tight' or just the alternator? An over-tight belt can do a number on the alternator bearings.

Get yourself a laser thermometer to have a better idea of how your radiator is performing.

The Alternator looks like it's 1/8 inch back from the water pump and crank pulleys. The belt tightness on the pulleys is about 1/4" if I pull it with a finger (Yes, I got that off of an old British car video.). I've run a Voltmeter a few times on both the Alt and the Battery today at various stages and the numbers have stayed reliably to what I've been quoted the Hitachi should be at.

Beyond the car idling a bit off due to a mistuned Weber 32/36 that's backfiring through the carb and making my spark plugs sooty, Pita's running pretty well.

I borrowed an Infrared Thermometer and so far, everything's looking good. Thank you for the advice!

 

[hartmandm]

I feel the gauge is suspect because I have to tap it sometimes to get it to move. I literally just put in a new VS and both gauges do work but the temp one lags like I said. Considering seeing how to take it apart and clean it, maybe there's some sort of debris on it or somesuch, the car did sit for a while. I borrowed a friend's infrared thermometer today and the numbers it was coming up with when idling and driving around the car port are about spot on with what the gauge is picking up.

Good articles on gauge refurb:
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Fuel Gauge Restoration - Rootes Review Sept 2012
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Gauge Refurbishing - TR6.pdf

To remove the gauge bezel, I place the gauge face down onto an upside down mouse pad that has a rubber backing. Then I press the gauge down onto the rubber and rotate to align the bezel tabs with the gaps. Don't bend the tabs on the bezel to remove the bezel.

If you disassemble the gauge, you will need to replace the rubber O-rings. I believe folks have referenced various sources for these on the forum. I obtained mine from Barrie Robinson, but I'm not sure if he still sells these. His web site address appears inactive. His email was barrie@look.ca

Mike

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Good articles on gauge refurb:
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Fuel Gauge Restoration - Rootes Review Sept 2012
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Gauge Refurbishing - TR6.pdf

To remove the gauge bezel, I place the gauge face down onto an upside down mouse pad that has a rubber backing. Then I press the gauge down onto the rubber and rotate to align the bezel tabs with the gaps. Don't bend the tabs on the bezel to remove the bezel.

If you disassemble the gauge, you will need to replace the rubber O-rings. I believe folks have referenced various sources for these on the forum. I obtained mine from Barrie Robinson, but I'm not sure if he still sells these. His web site address appears inactive. His email was barrie@look.ca

Mike

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

I got new o rings for the instruments from Nissonger!

 

[Scotty]

So I am working out the temp gauge on the car and have a IR Thermometer that I'm scanning with. I figured out how to tune the Weber and I have it running strong but it's running at a fast idle.

I shut down the engine and have gotten into the habit of looking under the car after I shutdown and before I get in to start and I noticed a silver dollar-sized pool of coolant just under the crank. I'm going to assume that there's an issue with the Water Pump seal at least and actually take the water pump out and check it and check it. I have new gaskets for it sitting on the shelf, so that's covered. Is there anything visible that will tell me the Water Pump is done for? Everything I've been suggested to look at with the pump I have and I'm very new to figuring out. Or is there something else I should be checking?

More as I go.

 

[sunalp]

There is a weep hole on the underside of the water pump. If your pump has a bad seal in it
you can visually see this "weep" coolant out of that hole. While running, use a good flashlight
and look under the pump to see if you see dripping. Taking the pump off to check it won't show you the drip
but it will show staining where the pump had been leaking. Try and have a look at it before you take it off.

 

[RootesRooter]

The thermostat housing is also a candidate, both front and back gaskets.

 

[husky drvr]

The thermostat housing is also a candidate, both front and back gaskets.

Scotty,

There is also a chance the thermostat outlet housing has corroded to the point it has a pinhole. I doubt that's your problem. The outlet usually becomes very fragile as well.

Don

 

[Scotty]

Updates:

If you haven't noticed, I'm pretty new to a lot of the engineering side of things but am learning. Thanks for being patient with me.

SIV 1725 Weber 32/36

Ran the car and let it idle as I watched around and below the pump area from both sides for weeping. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be obvious, but I see nothing. Shut down the car and did the same thing, figuring maybe pressure makes it weep after the car shuts down. Same thing. Not a drop.

The puddle that my dumb self thought was Antifreeze is really oil dripping from under the driver side of the crank. So far there's a little more than a silver dollar's worth after the car ran yesterday. I cleaned it and put a paper towel there and I'll check it in the morning to see how much it's coming out. I assumed it was Antifreeze because I had just done the coolant and because I didn't have a leak there before. Dumb me.

Had the cap off at idle and the radiator did stay cool but started to warm up, fins and all. Shut it all down.

I took time yesterday to adjust the carb (Redline Weber 32/36) back to their factory spec (1 1/2 idle, 2 mixture) and then adjusted from there. The idle is now abit too strong and idles abit high and now when I shut it down the Weber diesels for one or two full rotations before shutting down. If I let it sit for a few minutes and tap the gas pedal I get a puff of white smoke out of one of the barrels.

I'm going to pick up a dye test tomorrow to run on the coolant to make sure nothing is leaking anywhere. I'm imagining that my 1725 might have some sort of seal leak from the crank but my understanding is that the seals are some sort of scroll so it doesn't have seals. Is this normal? Should I be concerned?

I know I have a series of issues and most may not be related but since I'm under the hood awaiting surgery anyway, I might as well use my time. I hope I'm not annoying anyone with any of this.

Y'all have no idea how much I appreciate yall. Thanks so much!

 

[Scotty]

Scotty,

There is also a chance the thermostat outlet housing has corroded to the point it has a pinhole. I doubt that's your problem. The outlet usually becomes very fragile as well.

Don

The housing I have is actually pretty 'metal'. The inlet I sanded because it had so much gunk on it and some corrosion but the housing itself is just dirty... afaik tho...

The thermostat housing is also a candidate, both front and back gaskets.

Is there anything I should pay close attention to when changing the housing gaskets? I have those in a box here as we speak and I'm of the mind to change them anyway just for peace of mind.

 

[sunalp]

You probably don't have a coolant leak, and yes, it is common for Rootes engines to leak where yours is leaking.
It's a bit of a bear to fix with the engine in the car ( hard to get things lined up so the seal perfectly) so it's really
not the end of the world. If you haven't done so yet, do a valve adjust and check your timing as those could cause the high
idle you're experiencing. These cars take time and patience to sort out. Once you get there they're really great fun!

 

[hartmandm]

Do you have an electronic tachometer? If yes, it is likely not accurate unless you have done something to make it accurate again. Trying to set the idle speed using an inaccurate tachometer is difficult. Forum member Tom H can help with the tachometer. Here is an article he wrote on them: http://sunbeamalpine.org/2009/12/01/repair-upgrade-for-the-sunbeam-alpine-elec-tach/

Mike

 

[RootesRooter]

The housing I have is actually pretty 'metal'. The inlet I sanded because it had so much gunk on it and some corrosion but the housing itself is just dirty... afaik tho...

Is there anything I should pay close attention to when changing the housing gaskets? I have those in a box here as we speak and I'm of the mind to change them anyway just for peace of mind.

The biggest problem I've come across is that the two studs holding the housing to the head can suffer from galvanic corrosion aka "electrolysis." If there is significant corrosion, getting the housing loose often means prying/distorting/destroying the housing in the process and/or breaking one or both studs. If a stud breaks, hope that the intact portion is still long enough to put a vice grip on to remove it from the head or else you've got an even bigger headache. I wouldn't change the gaskets unless they're leaking or unless you're willing to roll the dice and look at the possibly significant extra time and effort as preventative maintenance. I've had some housings that were easy-peasy and a couple that were nightmares.

Note that the outlet housing that the hose is attached should be easily removable.