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Aluminum Oil Pan… Baffle?

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
I’ve come into possession of an Aluminum Oil Pan and wanted to find out what baffle it used and how hard it is to find one? Is someone repro’ing them or was this pan used on other cars?

Thanks!
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
I’ve come into possession of an Aluminum Oil Pan and wanted to find out what baffle it used and how hard it is to find one? Is someone repro’ing them or was this pan used on other cars?

Thanks!
Thr alloy sump is used on fastback alpines in the USA and on the holbay h120 and GLS motors in the UK. Its different to the stamped sumps.

You also need the 2 very long bolts for the front on the sump unique to the alloy sump
 

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
Thr alloy sump is used on fastback alpines in the USA and on the holbay h120 and GLS motors in the UK. Its different to the stamped sumps.

You also need the 2 very long bolts for the front on the sump unique to the alloy sump

Those I actually have. The baffle is what has me, well, baffled lol. I know it’s vital to the oiling to be right.
 

bobbo

Gold Level Sponsor
one could certainly make their own baffle. Here's a pic for reference.
Cheers.
 

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Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
one could certainly make their own baffle. Here's a pic for reference.
Cheers.

Not a bad idea, is the baffle a flat plate piece or does it have legs that stand it to the bottom of the pan? I noticed there are screws that attach it, any idea of their dimensions? What material and thickness is the baffle itself made of?

There is a tool and die place near me that I would use to make this. I am aware of the cost and fine with that provided it’s done right from go. I’d prefer to use the ‘real’ thing but if one can be made that is good or better than the original, I’m all ears on that.
 

bobbo

Gold Level Sponsor
you will notice the pan has a slight up-turn around it's perimeter, maybe about 1/8 or 3/16, and the centre opening I thing had a similar down-turn. I expect they give the pan some rigidity. The sheet metal is probably about the same guage as body steel, but I can't confirm as the pan is installed on my engine now. Oh no legs, it's held in place with the 3 screws, best as I can remember.
All the best.
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Two pictures for your reference. Most important is the vertical part of the baffle. Can check the size of the screws later:


IMG_20220911_090014.jpg

IMG_20220911_090121.jpg
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
While the pans themselves are rare, the baffles seem to be even rarer. You are not the first person here to have acquired a pan missing its baffle. I doubt there would be a huge market for them, but you could probably defer the costs of having one made by making a dozen or so and selling them off.

Edit: Seeing this post got me searching the archives for more on the pans and one likely cause of the relative scarcity of the baffles has been discussed here before. Apparently, the screws holding the baffles in can work loose, causing the pans to hit the crankshaft. Locktite is recommended for the screws. I don't remember if I knew this when I rebuilt my engine; I am not inclined to pull the pan to check, but I will keep and ear out for any unusual clanking. And maybe buy one of your spare pans, should you decided to make extras!
 
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AlsPine

Donation Time
IMG_0823.JPG IMG_0777.JPG IMG_0777.JPG IMG_0823.JPG I added an oil temp sender to my pan before installing it.
Took the face plate out of an oil pressure gauge and replaced the water temperature face plate with it.
 

BEpine

Platinum Level Sponsor
My baffle was rusty with some holes so I reinforced it with 2 steel plates. I sandwiched the 2 plates using 10-32 SS screws and nuts then welded the screws to the nuts so they would never come loose. You will also need to drill 2 new holes in the bottom of your bell housing to line up with the oil pan.
I also tapped the 3 baffle attachment holes in the pan for a 10-32 screw. They were originally self tap screws. I also used loctite when securing the baffle to the pan.
 

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