• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Alpine aluminum radiators

mr.vman

Donation Time
Not sure if this has been covered before. Aluminum radiators for the, V6 swap. Does anyone have any experience with, E Bay aluminum radiators listed for the Alpine, or any other source for aftermarket radiators that work or do not work? Wizard is out there but some what expensive? Have no copper radiator so, aluminum seems the logical choice. I know, brass/copper gets ride of heat better than aluminum. Let me know. Thanks in advance, Steve V.
 

phyrman

SAOCA Secretary
Diamond Level Sponsor
You can us your stock radiator and have a shop record with the MX core, still brass but very efficient
 

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
I had my original 62 re- cored w/ a three row and have never had a problem. Cost may be about the same as a new one, however.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I had my original 62 re- cored w/ a three row and have never had a problem. Cost may be about the same as a new one, however.
Ditto with my '67 SV. 3 cores and works great, although I want to add an electric fan for parades, as on July 4 it does get rather warm here in Philadelphia.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The Radiator 260 referenced has the filler cap in a very bad spot!! It will not clear the Alpine Lid!!
 

65beam

Donation Time
This version of the Alpine had a three row radiator as standard equipment. The difference being that the hose connections are reverse of the series Alpine.100_0252.JPG
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I kinda like my 3 tube 16 Fins per inch all copper radiator.

PIC'd are two different ways to route the top hose to the radiator. I really prefer the modified OFY waterneck pointing toward the left side of the radiator.
 

Attachments

  • Engine side of Radiator with Gates 22080 and Modified Thermostat Housing   20161109_173428.jpg
    Engine side of Radiator with Gates 22080 and Modified Thermostat Housing 20161109_173428.jpg
    433.9 KB · Views: 47
  • Bottom Gates 22080 facing engine 2.8 V6    20161109_174928.jpg
    Bottom Gates 22080 facing engine 2.8 V6 20161109_174928.jpg
    497.8 KB · Views: 49
  • OFY Water Necks - Stock points to Righ Modified to left side    20161109_175635.jpg
    OFY Water Necks - Stock points to Righ Modified to left side 20161109_175635.jpg
    576.7 KB · Views: 48
  • Top radiator hose with stock OFY water neck - Gates 21341          20181217_172645.jpg
    Top radiator hose with stock OFY water neck - Gates 21341 20181217_172645.jpg
    237.3 KB · Views: 49
  • 20171213_171045.jpg
    20171213_171045.jpg
    232.3 KB · Views: 46

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I went to a 3-row on my 65 Mustang 6-cylinder and it got hotter in parades. Radiator guy said sometimes more rows actually slows air flow too much so heat is not removed as fast. Went to an aluminum radiator with 6-blade flex-fan and shroud that fixed everything. Putting stock radiator back in my SV with 2.3 hoping it works. If it works for a V6 I think it should for a L4. Should find out next summer.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Charlie, One major point I was trying to make is the stock radiator has about 9 fin per inch and my experience with many different types of equipment has shown much improvement when I had my radiators re cored with the additional "fins" such as the increase from 9 to 16 FPI on the stock Alpine Radiators. Fins dissipate heat! More fins within reason help in that regards. However you can possibly have too many fin and cut down on air flow?
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
@Charles, did you have a shroud and flex fan before with the original radiator??? Seems like its not really a correct comparison.

There are a few "fixes" people use for overheating that can often make the issue worse.

Increasing water speed can increase heating within the system as it doesnt spend enough time going through the radiator.

Putting big pusher fans infront of the radiator that helps while car is in traffic but can block airflow on the run.

Going to more fins and rows in the core so the rear rows end up bring passed with lots of hot air.

Often the issue with cooling systems is like with carbs... People say it goes out of tune or overheats so is not sufficient... They replace with New parts and problems go away.... When often the actual problem is worn or incorrectly adjusted original parts.

Airflow in sunbeams is king.... Thats why blocking horn holes amd sealing the front valence and rad panel is so effective. As for alloy radiators...they work much better at speed than in traffic... Again.. Airflow
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I had the flex-fan with a new Mustang radiator but not the shroud. I know this is not an apples-to-apples comparison, but since I made a shroud fit the new radiator I installed it. The Pony runs cool even in parades now. The Sunbeam is totally new ground and I am wondering out loud about cooling the 2.3 with an AC condenser and pusher fan. It seems like a lot of restriction to air flow to actually work properly. With only about 1.5 inches between radiator and fan pully, a pusher looks like my only option.
 
Top